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Subaru super blue antifreeze

72K views 32 replies 20 participants last post by  AvidHiker  
#1 ·
I would like to use the OEM stuff but my local dealership is asking over $34 per gallon. (This may cost me more in antifreeze than my new radiator costs!!)

I understand that all Subarus have used this magic blue elixir since 2009.... This is enough time for equivalents to be made available.

Has anyone found a suitable equivalent for the "Subaru super blue antifreeze"?
 
#4 ·
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#15 ·
#5 ·
#8 ·
on the best sources for subaru parts thread Jogosub had this one in Quincy Mass. (selling many OEM manufacturer parts, like Fred Beans)

SUPER COOLANT PRE-MIXED | Genuine Subaru | SOA868V9270

$20.00 plus something like $8.00 shipping.

________________________________________

I saw they also have something in a quart but I am unfamiliar with the product.
SUPER COOLANT CONCENTRATE | Genuine Subaru | SOA868V9260

a subaru dealer site has it listed as
Genuine Subaru Super Coolant Concentrate Extreme Cold Weather
This ethylene glycol-based antifreeze/engine coolant combines extreme cold weather protections with long lasting corrosion and rust protection. Environmentally friendly formula reduces disposal costs. Provides cold weather protection to -62 degrees farenheit. Eliminates need for additional corrosion inhibitors. Compatible with non metal surfaces. 1 quart bottle.
 
#9 ·
I would like to use the OEM stuff but my local dealership is asking over $34 per gallon.
Sounds like a typical 33% dealer markup for parts. Subaru's own site shows a MSRP or $24.14.
#SOA868V9270: Super Coolant Pre-mixed. 1 Gallon Bottle

A quick DuckDuckGo search turned up a variety of prices. It looks like one dealer is selling it for slightly below MSRP.
#SOA868V9270: Subaru. Super Coolant Pre-mixed. 1 Gallon Bottle

By the way, can anyone comment about the claim of protecting to -62º?
 
#12 ·
that is the traditional green unmixed (very similar to prestone or the other quality green ones).

the super blue which lasts twice as long,...but cost three times as much.:frown2:

Edit: and there is nothing wrong with the traditional green,...I am not swapping up to the super blue.
 
#14 ·
Blue is good for 100k. Green is good for 30k. You can replace green with blue if you completely flush the system. You can put green in blue, but change interval is now the green, 30k.

My 2010 has blue, I'll keep it in there. My 2008 tribeca has green, I'll keep that in there.

Blue does not come in concentrate, probably because they aren't mixing it with water?
 
#18 ·
My research has revealed that ALL the "Asian blue" antifreeze is not only compatible... but is manufactured in the same plant. (None of the automakers actually manufacture fluids... they simply repackage someone-elses product.)

All the following are interchangeable blue antifreeze

Acura .................................. OL-999-9011
Honda ................................ OL-999-9011
Infiniti ................................. 999MP-LP25500P
Mitsubishi ........................... MZ313950
Nissan ................................ 999MP-LP25500P
Subaru ................................ SOA868V9270
Suzuki ................................ 990B0-01003




 
#22 ·
Have you considered Zerex Asian? It is made to meet the Asian specifications, and specifically lists that it meets Subaru specs. I've read a lot of positive reviews of it.

Valvoline.com > Products > Zerex > Antifreeze Zerex > Zerex? Asian Vehicle Antifreeze / Coolant

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/Zerex_Asian_Vehicle_AFC_Technical_Bulletin.pdf

I believe it runs about $14/gal for premixed 50/50 at NAPA. I see you mentioned that there are no O'Reilly in your area, so NAPA is the other source for Zerex. It looks like you can also get it on Amazon for $16.25/gal, with free shipping.

Personally, I'm a little gun shy of Beck Arnley. I've recently learned that they don't make any products. Instead, they have other manufacturers label products as Beck/Arnley. Perhaps they buy their blue Asian coolant from a great source. But who knows. Perhaps it's a top notch product. They do specifically list on their web site, meeting a Subaru spec.

Extended Life Blue

Although there are no O'Reilly stores in your area, they will ship. And you can get free shipping if you order $75 or more. Perhaps there is something else you need also?
 
#23 ·
Here is a very good technical article describing the differences between various coolants

MOTOR Magazine Article | MOTOR Information Systems


http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082010_08.pdf

Interestingly, using one of the 'modern' OAT (Organic Acid Technology) in an engine not designed for it can lead to problems due to cavitation. Although OAT offers superior protection... it may take up to 5000 miles for the protective layer to form.

Many of the coolants which are ONLY available premixed have deionized water in them. (A step above distilled water)
 
#24 ·
I've been using a general brand Asian spec coolant concentrate (Canadian Tire's house brand Motomaster "Asian Long Life concentrated anti-freeze coolant") mixed with filtered water from my reverse osmosis house filter system. Both cars I used this mix in showed the normal operating temperature as slightly lower than before. The description on the canister said it was compatible with Subaru and phosphate-based, just as the manual specifies it. I think I should be fine without OEM.
Oh yeah, the coolant is yellow by the way.
 
#26 ·
Interestingly, the owner's manual indicates that the Super Coolant is good to -68F as does a previous poster to this thread. I bought some from my Subie dealer and the container indicates that it provides freeze protection down to -34F as does virtually every ethylene glycol coolant in a 50/50 mix with water. Are we misinformed somehow?

Mike
 
#27 ·
Dealer just tried to tell me that I can't add distilled water to top off the coolant overflow reservoir and I need to replace the coolant... I've had to top off from below the "low" mark twice in 52,000 miles - is that normal at all? Could it be evaporation in the reservoir rather than consumption (I live in central Texas, pretty hot).
 
#28 ·
Sounds like evaporation at work there. Glycol will not evaporate significantly over the life of the vehicle, but it can't prevent the water portion from evaporating. I topped off with Super Blue a couple times over the first 6 months with the car. But since then, over the past year, I've added small amounts of distilled water on a couple occasions just to keep it at the low mark when cold. My car is not garaged and spends a fair amount of time baking in the summer sun.
 
#29 ·
Went to O'riley's for Beck/Arnley but no luck. They did carry Zerex Asian blue for $16 a gallon. Should keep my Outback filled along with the Nissan and Honda at home.

Seems like mine is only losing 1-2 cups every 7k miles. Maybe it's the southern heat that's evaporating it. Definitely not the heater core sucking in coolant because it got low in the middle of July when it was 101 degrees outside.
 
#31 ·
Actually a step below distilled. Distilled water has NO impurities because it is boiled and the vapor condensed. Deionized is a less costly process that removes most impurities. It may be quite adequate for the purpose, but definitely NOT a step above. Also the person using reversed osmosis, that is a significant step below deionized and probably not suitable. It would depend on the water quality, but it definitely does not remove everything.
 
#32 ·
We 'create' deionized water in our lab by taking lightly filtered water and running it thru an ion exchange column. I'll tell you that DI water can still contain a lot of dead 'creatures' and be very dirty if not done right, even though it might still 'meg up' (highly non-conductive). It's great for chemical mixing.

For our closed cooling systems, we ONLY use distilled water. DI, stripped of ions, is considered to be very hungry and can react with various materials in a cooling loop. As we don't know all the materials used in an automotive system, it does present a degree of corrosion risk. Who knows what's in that head gasket??

https://www.lytron.com/Tools-and-Technical-Reference/Application-Notes/Deionized-Water

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...make+deion&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l4.7495j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1

On another subject, only being able to get 50/50 premixes bothers me.... Let's say you just did a system flush, and you have water in the system. How much water? A quart or more? Toss in your 50/50, and you now have 40/60 (+/-).

Economics? You just paid a premium for a half gallon of distilled water that would have cost you retail about $0.50.... Gimme a gallon of pure coolant and let me buy my own water!

How can you get back to where you want to be? Don't add more distilled water to your system after evaporation. The water leaves first (a good thing....). Refill with the 50/50 mix and you are over time increasing the concentration of glycol.
 
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#33 ·
IMO, for automotive use, distilled and DI water are interchangeable. Pure water, however you make it, immediately begins forming ions from the air (CO2 in particular), and once it's mixed with antifreeze, it's all the same. My understanding is that both processes are very good at stripping the water of ionic species, but each will have certain types of impurities unless additional processes are used to address them. From what I've seen, a typical DI system will first filter the municipal water to remove particulates, then run it through 3 or more ion-exchange beds, followed by a second particulate filter (the filters aren't 100% efficient). This water is suitable for many industrial chemical processes, and I have no concern with using it to top off my expansion tank. However, absent additional processing, some microbes can survive your typical DI filtration system. This is where distilled water is sometimes preferred - a properly designed still can produce sterile water quite easily. This, for example, can help to prevent biological fouling of a cooling system. In terms of corrosivity, IME (and from what I've read), there's not much difference. Highly purified water, no matter how it's made, can be corrosive under certain conditions. But corrosion is not typically a problem - cooling systems that employ pure water were designed for it, and glycol-based coolants are generally formulated with corrosion inhibitors. There are many different cooling systems out there, and coolants are customized for them. The corrosion inhibitors and other additives are selected based on the specific design, materials of construction, servicing requirements, etc. I'm not a chemist, or a cooling system engineer, so FWIW, and IME. ;)