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Old 01-29-2010, 10:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Window Switch

I need to replace my drivers side, drivers window switch. It has been wonky for a few months now, but I've always managed to get it back up. Finally it went down and never went back up. I had managed to roll it up by hooking the switch wire to a battery, but now my dash lights (speedo, gas gauge etc...) are gone and so is my front drivers side headlight (low beam).

How do I replace the switch and did I fry a fuse or two?

Thanks a lot
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Old 01-29-2010, 05:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is a common problem and i have a common fix.

Take the switch apart and clean the contacts. DO ti slowly on the kitchen table, keep track of parts, it is easy do and will fixe the issue. The contacts get dirty.


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Old 02-01-2010, 07:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks nipper! I'll try that.

Is it possible that I caused the malfunction of the dash light and headlight when I hooked the switch up to a car battery?
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I cant see how, unless there is something you arent telling us. Is your stereo factory or aftermarket? there is a module that controls the dash lights under the dash "illumunation controller" by your right knee. This is fried most likely, get a used one as they are very pricey. Depending upon how you tested things maybe.

The headlight is most likely a bad socket. Just splice a replacement in.

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Old 02-03-2010, 08:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm not sure how you hooked a car battery to the switch wire but, you could have very easily blown a bunch of fuses and likely did if all that stuff stopped working afte ryou did it. You can jumper the pins in the plug to bypass the switch [i did it] but if i recall correctly it took two jumper wires.

I'm not sure about your 97 nipper but, the switch cluster in the 00 is basically all four window switches in a cluster. They are all solid state switches and are not easily taken apart without breaking them [ask me how I know]

I ended up sucking it up and buying the whole **** thing since you can't buy the pieces individually. not cheap

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_...hp?partid=1927

Maybe I was just impatient when I did it, I'll go look in the garage and see if I kept it and what I may have done wrong.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot Fellas. I found the switch cluster on ebay from a pretty reputable seller. Would anyone NOT suggest buying this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/00-04...Q5fAccessories

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Old 02-05-2010, 08:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The only reason I would hesitate to buy a used switch is that it's at least 6 years old and may fail soon just like yours did. Mine went 2 yrs ago.

I'm guessing your drivers side went and I'm guessing that's normal since it would be the most used switch in that cluster. That leads me to believe that it's a usage issue and there's no reason to think that whoever had that car didn't use it just as much as we do.

Just don't want you to buy it and have it fail in 6 mos and have to buy another new one.

If you for some reason need that bezel, then go for it.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had to replace the driver's side window switch cluster on my '99 Outback about six months ago. The cluster itself unplugs and is held in place with three or four screws. The hardest part of the whole job was taking out and replacing the door panel.

My first thought when the window switch stopped working was the same as Nipper's ... clean the contacts. But as ETC said, the cluster seems to be a sealed assembly and I couldn't see how to disassemble it without breaking something.

I bought a used cluster on E-bay for about $40 and it's been working fine ever since.
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have a spare '02 switch cluster (left over from my mission to replace/repaint all the fake woodgrain trim in my '01).

Unscrewed from the bezel, the switch cluster looks like this:



The connector has 14 pins:



If you remove the cover (very easy, with fingernails or butter knives) it looks like this:



And each switch is backed by six soldered points like this:



That's as far as I went.

In a pinch, I'd guess you could unsolder the DPDT switch for the driver's window and replace it with another one. But it seems like a huge pain. Much easier to just replace the whole assembly.

Assuming the switch is the problem. If you had to connect a battery to open your window, perhaps your wiring is faulty instead?


-Jeff
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah, I don't know exactly how he connected a battery to the switch. It's possible that the extra available amperage allowed the switch to arc to point beyond the dirty part of the contact [I've done this on a window motor with a "flat spot" on the armature]

Like I said, you can jumper the plug, all the switch does is connect two of the pins for as long as you hold it. On this one, I'm not sure why but I needed two jumper wires to make it go down. Not sure if it is the "auto down" relay or what.

For $40 I'd take a chance on a used switch, for almost 3/4 of the cost of a new one, I wouldn't.
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