Ring clips on CV Joint (axle)

[andyhessler]

Hi,
I need a bit of advice on what the spring clips on the end of the shaft that goes into the tranny are for.

I have a 97 Legacy L wagon...and I just replaced both from CV joints. On this model you have to transfer the dog bone from the old axle to the new one. You drive a roll pin out and pop a new one in. On the end of the shaft is a groove. And in the grove is a "C" shaped clip that kind of just hangs on the end. It seemed like this clip was preventing me from sliding the shaft all the way back into the tranny. It would go part way and then stop. Once I removed the clip it went in fairly easily. But, for the life of me I can't figure what the clips are for. I really need to know if I should pop the joints out and try again or what the trick might be for installing them.

I also don't know what to do about the dust covers that come on the original shafts. The replacement remans didn't have the dust covers to cover the inner seal at the tranny. It did come with one for the wheel bearing though. When I asked at Pepboys if I needed the dust shield, they said I didn't. That was good enough at the time. So I put the passenger side in without the dust shield. But then I figured out how to remove the driver's side cover and I reinstalled it on the reman axle. If they're needed...I'll probably pop off the passenger side again and install it. But since other parts stores don't carry the dust shield...I'm really not sure if it's needed. Some advice would be great.
Thanks,

[ETC]

This is out of a 2000+ manual but it should be similar. Which clip are you talking about ?

[ETC]

If it's #7, that should be the clip that stops the knuckle from pulling out of the housing.

[driveby]

I'm pretty sure Andy is referring to the circlip that holds the axle stub in the front diff.

#10 in this diagram:



That's from my 2001 service manual.

I don't know if the 1997 is different, but on my 2001 the axle stub (12) remains in the diff when you pull an axle. You remove the roll pin first, and the axle just slips right off the stub.

If the axle stub fell out of the tranny, I'd guess the circlip (10) and/or the roller bearing (6) are toast.

According my manual, parts 6 thru 9 are removed before you install the axle stub. The order of assembly is:

1) install NEW circlip (10) onto axle stub (12)
2) tap axle stub (12) into diff case (5) with plastic hammer
3) check axle stub thrust play, should be 0.3-0.5 mm; if no play, replace stub
4) wrap vinyl tape around axle stub splines
5) install NEW oil seal (7) and roller bearing (6) onto side retainer (9)
6) coat retainer threads with oil and screw retainer (9) and NEW o-ring (8) onto tranny
7) install lock plate (11, T1 = 18.1 ft-lb)

Note: Oil seal is a different part # on each side.

Again, this is from a 2001 manual. And I have not done this procedure myself. When I swapped one of my axles last fall, the stub remained in the tranny. The oil seal looked perfect, so I had no reason to pull it.


-Jeff

[ETC]

That makes slightly more sense than what I was thinking, the "dogbone" comment along with the fact that, like you, I didn't need to pull the stub axle when I did my axle kind of threw me.

If that's the case, probably shouldn't be driving the car around like that as the axle could pull out and cause all kinds of damage flailing around.

[andyhessler]

Yep,
That's the circlip #10.
The axel and stub shaft pulled out of the tranny with little effort really. (It was easy then to transfer the stub shaft (#12) into the new CV assy.)
Now you've got me worried I might do more damage to the transmission.

Any more advise on that would be appreciated.

[driveby]

If the axle stub pulled out on my car, I would remove ALL of those parts (6-12), inspect the bearing and stub for play/wear, replace them if necessary, and reassemble everything according to the fsm.

Apparently you were driving around with a "loose" stub already, and the axle didn't come out, but that's no guarantee of safety.

Even if there is no chance of the axle pulling out, I'd think that a loose stub moving in and out of the diff will cause vibration, wobble, wear, and accelerated death of various parts.

Thanks...you've motivated me to check the thrust play on all of my axle stubs next time I change the oil.


-Jeff

[ETC]

sounds like that circlip is loose enough to compress in what i can only assume is a tapered recess [since it says to tap it in with a plastic hammer]

Maybe you just weren't persuasive enough when you went to put it back in. I can't tell you how many times the instructions say to "be careful not to apply too much pressure" and I find myself saying " no ... this isn't right ... it shouldn't be this ... 'click' ... Oh, there it goes"

My opinion is that it's there for a reason so ... probably don't want to be reengineering it at this point ;]

[andyhessler]

I'm guessing that'll work..and if I work with the stub shaft by itself and then install the CV assy via the roll pin second...I might be ok. All the bolts are freed now...and I have a good idea of what the sequence is to tear into it again. (It's always faster the 3rd time).

Now...just have to convince my friend to let me continue working on the car...if he hasn't lost all confidence in me.

I might try calling a suby dealer to see what else I can learn too. (Figure it can't hurt).
Thanks.

[Boxxerace]

Originally Posted by driveby

I'm pretty sure Andy is referring to the circlip that holds the axle stub in the front diff.

#10 in this diagram:



That's from my 2001 service manual.

I don't know if the 1997 is different, but on my 2001 the axle stub (12) remains in the diff when you pull an axle. You remove the roll pin first, and the axle just slips right off the stub.

If the axle stub fell out of the tranny, I'd guess the circlip (10) and/or the roller bearing (6) are toast.

According my manual, parts 6 thru 9 are removed before you install the axle stub. The order of assembly is:

1) install NEW circlip (10) onto axle stub (12)
2) tap axle stub (12) into diff case (5) with plastic hammer
3) check axle stub thrust play, should be 0.3-0.5 mm; if no play, replace stub
4) wrap vinyl tape around axle stub splines
5) install NEW oil seal (7) and roller bearing (6) onto side retainer (9)
6) coat retainer threads with oil and screw retainer (9) and NEW o-ring (8) onto tranny
7) install lock plate (11, T1 = 18.1 ft-lb)

Note: Oil seal is a different part # on each side.

Again, this is from a 2001 manual. And I have not done this procedure myself. When I swapped one of my axles last fall, the stub remained in the tranny. The oil seal looked perfect, so I had no reason to pull it.


-Jeff

Thank you for this post Jeff. Excellent!