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97 Legacy OBW Coilpack

4K views 24 replies 5 participants last post by  1 Lucky Texan 
#1 ·
Turns out my coilpack shorted out on me the other day while driving. I have been trying to get parts from Autozone and NAPA and it does not fit. Here are pictures of what I need and have been getting.

Pics from off of the car & NAPA part.

Anyone know where I could get a replacement?
 

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#3 ·
Paypal $25 to my username here @yahoo.com and i'll ship you one.

There are two style coil packs, the newer one NAPA gave you started showing up in 1997 - ask for one from a 1996 legacy/outback and you'll get the style you see on your vehicle.

yours may be a swapped engine...but that doesn't matter - you need a 1995/1996 style ignition coil
 
#4 ·
I got the part off Amazon for $27! Installed and nothing, but its seems after sitting for a few days other things have gone wrong. My clutch pedal is extremely soft when I go to depress it to start the car. Also when I turn the key I hear the starter turn over, but it doesn't seem to turn the engine over. Any ideas of what might be going on now?

Thanks!!!
 
#5 ·
not sure about the clutch - hmmm

maybe start by confirming the timing belt is intact and crank/cam timing are good. Slipped timing might make it sound odd when cranking if you have less than normal compression. ( is a 97 a 2.2 ?)

slipped timing might explain lack of spark too.

CEL on? post the trouble codes.
 
#8 ·
I was driving down the road and the car stopped running. Checked for spark off the coil pack to the plug wire and nothing. Took it in to NAPA and the guy there checked for resistance across poles and said it was shorted.
 
#11 ·
just to be clear, when the starter is engaged, does the crank pulley turn? belts and power steering pump, etc. all moving?


if you have a 2.2, you won't have bent valves. So, not the end of the world.

how long since the TB was serviced? Did they change the pulleys or just the belt?

I suppose it's possible you just have a bad crank position sensor and some wonky issue with the battery or starter - but I prefer the one simple explanation over some odd combination of overlapping problems.
 
#12 ·
I thought all legacy outback wagons in the late 90's had 2.5? I haven't been able to tell if all the belts and pulleys spin when I turn it over.

I opened the timing belt cover on the drivers side, seemed like there was pressure on the belt. I couldn't get in any deeper this evening. Where is the crank position sensor? How can I tell if the timing is off by looking at the timing pulleys?
 
#13 ·
pretty sure 5 spds got the 2.2 but, others here will know for certain.






never use the arrow or triangle on the front of the crank sprocket. Put the 'dash' on the tab at the back of the sprocket at 12 o'clock . If the lines on the cams are not at 12 (near the notches on the rear plastic shroud) then turn the crank pulley 360 degs.

2.2 liter SOHC
Z1: 44 teeth
Z2: 40.5 teeth

2.5 liter SOHC
Z1: 46.8
Z2: 43.7 teeth

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItEcdrKWHtY
 
#14 ·
Thanks! Do you know where the crank position sensor is located? I'm starting with the small stuff before I have to break into the big items like timing belts.
 
#19 ·
So I have replaced the sensor, didn't work. I guess my timing must be off. Confirmed I have the ej25. Here are some pics of the timing belt. Any suggestions???

I bought the car in January so I don't know if it has ever been changed.
 

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#20 ·
maybe one of the gurus can spot the problem. looks like a DOHC so, are you sure about the year model of the car? did it have an engine swap?

easier for me if you put the bolt back in the crakshaft and rotate it so the tab with the 'dash' at the back of the crank sprocket is alignined under the crank postion sensor.

then take pics.

or, just do an inage search for ej25 timing. you will find pics and drawings similar to the ones posted above.

bottom line though, you will likely need the help of a pro for this.

if the engine is high miles, might be better to rebuild the timing belt area of a used engine. If the belt has only slipped 2-3 teeth, you may be OK with the engine you have, but if valves are bent........


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mjCegTnB60
 
#21 ·
Manual transmission? I thought all 2.5s used with MT have the added guide over the crankshaft sprocket. I don't see one in the photos. (See thumbnail.) Also, that engine has the old model tensioner. So it might not have had the TB replaced in a long time.

As suggested, manually line up the crank alignment mark for changing the belt, and then see where the cams timing marks are.
 

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#22 ·
Here are some pictures of the timing belt aligned, I think. Please let me know if this looks right. Pictures show center, driver side, passenger side.
 

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#23 ·
still not sure but, kinda looks like pass side ex cam is 90* off. And there's no way to confirm the intake cam.

it's kinda critical we see all 5 marks, and also confirm the double-hash marks are directly opposite each other (total of 7 timing locations, plus a tooth count would be good too)) on the cams where they are closest. If you are confident of the above - and you double check after rotating and do a tooth count, you should be good-to-go.

please wait for others to reply though.
 
#24 ·
Same here. Can't see the marks on both pairs of cam pulleys. Also can't see the marking on the back plate of the crank pulley. (I would imagine it's hard to get a photo of the front of the two pairs of cam pulleys, but it might be possible to photograph the front of each, at least where the marking are. That would mean at least five photos, if not more, but if they're properly labeled, then they would tell the story.)
 
#25 ·
OK, after looking at the expanded photos, all but the pass intake look good. Just can't confirm it from the photos.

if that cam's double hash marks are directly opposite the double-hash on the exh (lower) cam. everything should be fine.

personally, I like to also confirm the tooth-count before and after pulling the pin on the tensioner and rotating the crank 2 times.
 
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