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Hatch lock failure?

51K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  toddbranst  
#1 ·
2005 Outback, the rear hatch lock has failed. The latch works fine but it cannot be locked. The only lock is the electric one. If the car is "locked" and the rear hatch is opened, the alarm sounds until one or more buttons on the remote are pressed.

The dealer service dept, tells me that I need to replace the wiring harness at a cost of ~ $850 .

Does anyone have any information on this, such as a simple way to install a mechanical lock? Or any simpler way to repair it?
 
#2 ·
There have been instances of broken wires in the flexible tube going from the body to the rear gate (upper right) affecting lights, the lock, or rear wiper.

Most have been repaired by accessing the wires, rather than replacing the harness.

Here's a few related threads, including one with similar symptoms:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...lectrical-electronics/19618-third-brake-light-license-lights-out-most-time.html (Unfortunately some of the attached pics are not showing as of today.)

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/12794-05-hatch-lock-problem.html

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums.../73-outback-6-cylinder/20718-rear-wiper-does-not-return-park-home-position.html

So far I think the symptom is limited to 05's, but that might only be a function of use and time.

Let us know what you find so that the trend can be followed and others with the problem will find a quick answer here.
 
#3 ·
I took a look and concluded I had better find a wiring diagram.

There are bundles of wire coming down both sides, with 15-20 wires in each, and with no idea which side or what color, I will be there a long time.

Is there a source of correct wiring diagrams on the net, or better yet a service manual that might help get into the door?

This car has 140000 km on it and has been through cold weather.

Thanks
 
#4 ·
As far as I know, there is only one harness going from the body of the car to the rear gate, and that one passes through the flexible cover (accordian-like boot) on the upper right of the rear gate body opening. (The flexible cover on the left, driver's, side, encloses the windshield washer fluid line for the rear washer.)

I've attached the relevant part of the wiring diagram (from my 07). In the linked thread on "05 Hatch lock problem . . " I outlined, in post #8 a troubleshooting process, beginning with the connection at the lock actuator in the rear gate, and working backwards. This will also help to verify the colors of the wires to the lock actuator for identification in the harness.

Also, in the "Third Brake light out . . ." thread there's instructions, in post #8, how to remove the rear gate trim to gain access to the interior of the door.

The single harness going from the car body (right rear pillar) to the rear gate has not more than 18 wires by my count. (Rear wiper 3, rear latch lock 2, rear license plate lights 2, rear backup lights 2, high mount stop light 2, radio antenna/amplifier 2, rear window defroster 2.)

Finally, use Advanced Search to do a Title only search for "service manual". A number of threads will appear with good suggestions. I recommend getting the genuine Subaru service manual that is available from Subaru Technical Information System - Home.
 

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#19 ·
As far as I know, there is only one harness going from the body of the car to the rear gate, and that one passes through the flexible cover (accordian-like boot) on the upper right of the rear gate body opening. (The flexible cover on the left, driver's, side, encloses the windshield washer fluid line for the rear washer.)

I've attached the relevant part of the wiring diagram (from my 07). In the linked thread on "05 Hatch lock problem . . " I outlined, in post #8 a troubleshooting process, beginning with the connection at the lock actuator in the rear gate, and working backwards. This will also help to verify the colors of the wires to the lock actuator for identification in the harness.

Also, in the "Third Brake light out . . ." thread there's instructions, in post #8, how to remove the rear gate trim to gain access to the interior of the door.

The single harness going from the car body (right rear pillar) to the rear gate has not more than 18 wires by my count. (Rear wiper 3, rear latch lock 2, rear license plate lights 2, rear backup lights 2, high mount stop light 2, radio antenna/amplifier 2, rear window defroster 2.)

Finally, use Advanced Search to do a Title only search for "service manual". A number of threads will appear with good suggestions. I recommend getting the genuine Subaru service manual that is available from Subaru Technical Information System - Home.

Just happened to my 07. 155k miles. Thanks for the info
 
#5 ·
Thanks, I took the cover off over the lock and found two pairs of wires plugged in.

One pair has 12 volts on it all the time, with minor fluctuations when the remote buttons are pressed.

The second is dead all the time, even if I trip the latch.

I will go get the details from Subaru now.
 
#6 · (Edited)
05 Outback rear hatch lock wiring

If the rear hatch lock has so many wiring issues, can Subaru please post the harness schematic with wire colors so I can repair it? I've already purchased a new lock assembly only to find that the problem must be in the harness. Hope someone can help. 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 XT.
thanks -
 
#7 ·
The wiring diagrams, in fact the complete service manual, is available from Subaru of America at Subaru Technical Information System - Welcome.

A 72 hour subscription, for about $35, will enable you to download all the relevant files, as well as a lot of other technical material about your car.

Or, do a search here for Free Service Manuals. There are some links in one or more threads where all or part of the service manuals a posted.
 
#8 ·
My 05 seems to have multiple wiring issues. The head lights are constantly going out and the hatch lock quit working a couple months ago. The shop has suggested a short in the wiring "somewhere" but they want way too much to fix this.

Seems to me that Subaru needs to take notice, almost every 05 I see now days has a headlight out and I am seeing here that the locks are an issue.
 
#9 ·
Have you checked the fuse? Bulb socket could have corrosion on it. Electric parts do fail and don't last a lifetime.

As for checking for a "short" or "open" in the wiring, it is usually at the plug or in an area of the harness that has a bend or is prone to vibration against metal.

It could also be a short within the electric part.
 
#11 ·
any solution ever found to the hatch lock not working?
Broken wires in the flexible tube going from the body to the rear gate. See links in post #2 above.

The solution is to fix the broken wires or replace the whole rear gate door harness. However, I don't know if Subaru has a replacement harness that has more flexible wiring than the original.
 
#12 ·
I just had this go out me today, and was lucky enough to find this thread. Thanks for posting on this.

Anyway, I found the BW wire was broken/open, at the tube. There's also cracks in the insulation of some (most?) of the other wires, though they all seem ok. That being the case, would it make sense to replace all the wiring? And if a guy (with mediocre mechanical skills) were to do this, about how long would this take? Or should this even be attempted?

Brian.
 
#13 ·
Some have been able to fix stretches of the wires that were failing by replacing sections with better wire. It does involve disassembling the trim on the rear hatch and the cargo area of the rear area. Also, some skill with wiring, soldering, and protecting is suggested. The time involved will depend on skills and how easy it turns out to be -- others who have done it might have a better idea.

I would imagine that a few hours would be needed to replace the whole harness with a new one. Again, the trim has to be removed for access, and the cable routed through the flexible boot area. It also has to be connected to each of the electrical loads in the rear gate. But a dealer should have a "nominal" time estimate.
 
#14 ·
Thanks, OM! I'm just fine with soldering and all that. I did dig a little deeper and found a *few* more threads about this subject. One thing I was unable to find here (or on the webs) was the actual part #, or a photo of what this looks like. Have any idea of what the PN is, or where to get one (dealer, I assume)? And does this include all the wiring, from the harness to the various gate assemblies (lock, lights, etc.)?

I really don't feel the need to make something better, as this one lasted what, 8 years (05 XT)? So I'm happy with just replacing with an OEM part.
 
#15 ·
The door cord connects from the "rear" harness (in the cargo area) to the various gate assemblies. See: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_22/electronic/cord_rear/

This is a "rendition" covering several years, but gives some idea of what the harness is like. Note that there's several part numbers, and this list might not be fully up-to-date. Probably best to check with a dealer -- might need to verify with the VIN number.
 
#17 ·
Our lock actuator stopped working and I followed the yellow/green and white/black wires back to the rubber expansion conduit boot on the upper corner of the passenger side of the rear gate. The green wire had broken just on the car side of the boot and the white wire had a crack in it at the same point and was going to be next to break. I soldered in a replacement length of wire to each line and the actuator works again. There were more than a dozen other wires in the bundle and none of them were damaged in any way. Seems weird that only those wires were damaged, but I am glad that it was an easy fix.
 
#18 ·
Yes, I removed the rubber boot near the upper edge of gate on RHS and the red-green cable leading to the lock mechanism was broken. Added short copper wire to length, spliced, taped over and all good now. Not sure why cable was broken, the gate was repaired at panel beaters a few months back, maybe they caused damage on assembly, or when I once drove with the rear gate open for a short while to deliver a long load. Thanks for telling us about the cable bundle under rubber boot, that was exactly what happened.