Clutch Problem - Not Slv or Mast cylinder =-( - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch Problem - Not Slv or Mast cylinder =-(

Hi Subaru Community!

Hope you guys can help me out, cause I need my Suby to get to work !!


Car:
2001 Subaru Outback 2.5L H4 ( Manual Trans )

Failure :
After a 3 hour road trip, I got off the freeway and could not shift the car into gear. After forcing it into 1st gear, I drove it the rest of the way home.

Repair Attempts :

Master Cylinder Replacement ( After Market )
Slave Cylinder Replacement ( After Market )
Full system bleed, sending 4 resivours of fluid through the system.

Current Symptoms :
1) I can visually confirm the slave cylinder is pushing out.
2) The Clutch pedal first inch of travel offers no resistance.
3) When the clutch is depressed, the clutch plate squeeks ( I don't know if this is new, or I just never noticed it over the engine noise )
4) While off; put tranny in 1st gear and holding the clutch down. I start the engine the car acts like the clutch is partially engaged (slowly wanting to move forward )
5) While ideling and clutch depressed, I can not put it into gear.


Please Help Subaru gurus !!!
Can it be the clutch flex plate ??
I'm going to try adjusting the clutch pedal tonight and see what happens....



Thanks,
Griff
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 11:09 AM
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It sounds as though your clutch is not fully disengaging, due to the comment about it slowly creeping forward when in gear with the clutch depressed. This is also why you can't shift with the motor on, because the synchros are having a hard time making up for that big of a difference in shaft speeds.

If your system has been properly bled, and both cylinders have been replaced then I would check your clutch freeplay.

Last that I checked there was a pretty good article on endwrench about this.

endwrench.com, click on the archives tab on the left.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 11:29 AM
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http://endwrench.com/current/Current...rMaintServ.pdf

This is the article about checking to see if the clutch is adjusted right.

Adusting clutch pedal freeplay

And here's some guidance, albeit very vague guidance for adjusting it if needed.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04OBSMT View Post
http://endwrench.com/current/Current...rMaintServ.pdf

This is the article about checking to see if the clutch is adjusted right.

Adusting clutch pedal freeplay

And here's some guidance, albeit very vague guidance for adjusting it if needed.

Thanks for the links bro!

Update to follow tomorrow morning
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 06:17 PM
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Could also be a partially seized pilot bearing. This would continue to transfer some engine rotation to the transmission input shaft even when the clutch is fully pressed and the clutch plates are disengaged. It would also be a source of squeaking/noise when the clutch pedal is down.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plain OM View Post
Could also be a partially seized pilot bearing. This would continue to transfer some engine rotation to the transmission input shaft even when the clutch is fully pressed and the clutch plates are disengaged. It would also be a source of squeaking/noise when the clutch pedal is down.

Ehe.... I have a hunch this is the problem ( it's a load squeak ).

I'm confident in my mechanic skills.

Will there be enough room with the car on jack stands to drop the transmission ?
Or do I need to pull the engine ?
Or is the best approach a car lift ?

( If I'm getting in there for the pilot bearing, I'll replace the clutch too )

Thanks,
Griff
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 07:09 PM
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Can't answer the questions (haven't done the work) but there are lots of threads here about the clutch and transmission, Might be worthwhile doing a Search, and in the meantime perhaps someone who has dropped the tranny might respond.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-26-2010, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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sighhhh..... still wont go in gear...

time for a new clutch bearing
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-28-2010, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Problem Found

UPDATE:

OK, i have dropped the tranny out. As far as tranny drops go, the Subaru was easy.

If you have a basic set of tools, got some mechanic tool turning strength and a nice floor jack.... GO FOR IT !!! (really, clutch replacement is very do-able on this vehicle )

4 hours to drop the tranny and 5 hours to get it back will save me $1000

here is a great write up I found. Big props to the author!!!
DIY: Clutch Replacement pictorial - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com

My problem was the clutch disc!!! Seems the previous owner put a POS aftermarket clutch in (Labeled "made in China"). One of the springs in the clutch disc ripped out of the metal frame and was causing engagement problems.

CONCLUSION : Don't skimp out on quality parts when it come to your clutch!!

Parts are on the way, Subaru will be back on the road in no time

-Griff
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-28-2010, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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CLUTCH REPLACEMENT ADVICE :

Dis-Assembly is pretty straight forward.

Just wanted to note; after disconnecting the tranny from the block and you have jiggled it lose enough to see a gap :

Use a flat head screw driver to pry at the bottom of the gap between the bell housing and block.

I spent a good 20min trying to get them separated. ( Trying to avoid prying on the bell housing. ) But when I did pry on it, it separated very easily.
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