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Ticking/tapping noise from engine - 2008 3.0 H6

19K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  Subydome 
#1 ·
Hello all, this video was recorded by a mobile inspection service to check out a 2008 Outback 3.0 H6 LL Bean with 70k miles that I was strongly considering purchasing. He stated that the noise came and went but was definitely frequently audible. He thought it may be some kind of valve train tap. Unfortunately the car in question is almost 1000 miles away so I can't check it out myself or take it anywhere. It's at a dealership (non-Subaru) though from a recent trade in.

A local Subaru mechanic told me that it was likely a timing chain tensioner issue and could be anywhere from $700-2k to fix. What do you all think? Potential seriousness/cost of repair? Any thoughts whatsoever would be greatly appreciated.

Noise happens when engine is running, sound comes from the drivetrain, not variable based on any condition I'm aware of, and no vibration associated.

Thanks!

https://youtu.be/iV7Whc_KX-w
 
#2 ·
@Glennda5id @ntippet @grossgary @lockmedic
@cracklincrotch @cdc


all might have a valuable opinion. (sounds nice and mild though).

someone might safely put a stethoscope on the timing chain cover

the valve covers, etc to try to locate what is physically ticking. (safely vs. getting hurt by the fans or the accessory belt(s) )
 
#7 ·
No need to, they will see my "@" = mentions and look at your thread. (all are well versed in H6 engines, and / or such tapping), others may pick it up.

the video is pretty good as a initial sample, in that the camera is moving around the engine from one side to the other.
 
#4 ·
probably best to move on and buy a different one.

guy says valve train and he's the professional inspector so i'd assume he's trying to get it right. valve train or timing chain - both could be very expensive 4 digit repairs, unless this thing is $4,000 under others there's not a compelling reason to keep looking except the money you're out on the inspector.
 
#8 ·
I agree.


Personally I wouldn't buy any car with internal engine noise, which is what this sounds like to me. It can be difficult to pinpoint the source of this type of noise when the car is in front of you, but it is reminiscent of internal valve train/timing chain noises I've heard throughout the years.


I also noticed the K&N air filter sticker, this is a little bit of a red flag for me also. Some people are under the impression that K&N's give you more horsepower. Some people who are looking for more horsepower might be harder on their cars than people that just use them to get from point A to point B. Plus K&N filters let dirt through more so than OEM filters. That said, a K&N on its own wouldn't be a deal breaker as not everyone that installs them is hard on their car, obviously. But if I saw a K&N along with noisy internal engine noise at relatively low engine miles (70k) My imagination might lead me to believe that the previous owner drove it hard and this is what caused the internal engine noise.
 
#5 ·
I can clearly hear the tick on the right side of the engine, and just as clearly from the center of the engine when the guy with the camera comes back from the left side. It leaves me wondering if its just the way the microphone pointed or is it coming from the center area too? Like @eagleeye pointed out, a stethoscope is what's really needed. I'd also suggest @grossgary and @cdc may know better than I. But I'll venture a couple of guesses. My ideas aren't expensive. But of course, you don't own the car, at least not yet.

Engine oil/pressure, or lack thereof, is my guess as to the root cause. Did your mobile guy check the oil? As unlikely that it is that the dealer has it, but if there is a maintenance or oil change history available, get it if they have it.

Could just be the oil level is low and topping it up fixes it.

The timing chain tensioners are driven by oil and oil pressure. I've never heard of a case yet of a Gen3 having a tensioner fail though I'm sure it's happened to someone somewhere. If the oil level has been chronically below full I can imagine a tensioner not working correctly.

Chronically below full oil level could also cause the tap from a sticky lifter.

Was the engine warm when the video was made or was it cold? Could be a stupid loud piston slap until the car warms up, 10-20 minutes. Did the tick start with the engine starting or get louder as the engine got warmer? Did the mobile guy rev the engine at all to see what happens with the tick?

I'd change the oil immediately with Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 in a 0W40, add an extra 8oz of oil for higher oil pressure, put an OEM filter on it and drive it. The extra detergents in those gasoline compatible engine oils will clean out the varnish/carbon on the bottom of the engine that, if a tensioner isn't quite up to pressure as soon as the detergents get at them. The oil will turn blacker than black in color which is exactly what it's supposed to do. Don't change the oil for 3750 miles.

I was also wondering if it might be a ready-to-go accessory belt tensioner bearing or idler bearing. I couldn't see either of the pulleys wobbling in the video for the short time they were visible. At 70k it's a possibility but I wasn't getting a tap like that out of mine at 100k nor have I heard any others do that. The belt tensioner is on the right side of the engine, though.

Sucks that you're so far away from the car.
 
#9 ·
the current dealer should be dealing with this problem. be it a easy fix or a hard one, or sending it to auction to be some mechanics problem somewhere.

and good catch on a K&N filter @cdc.

I knew of someone with a dodge pickup that had one on early, (318 engine). could never really clean all the really fine dust off the wet gauze. The truck at the time was a hard work and hard play truck, and the engine kind of got starved for air after a couple years, needed to be tore apart, and cleaned up or rebuilt. (I lost track of the project and I don't know if they put in a used engine instead, such things are just laying around).

deal breaker, ...no but I would toss a wet gauze air filter in the trash in the first 5 minutes of ownership.
 
#11 ·
#13 ·
Ticking noise

Hello all, this video was recorded by a mobile inspection service to check out a 2008 Outback 3.0 H6 LL Bean with 70k miles that I was strongly considering purchasing. He stated that the noise came and went but was definitely frequently audible. He thought it may be some kind of valve train tap. Unfortunately the car in question is almost 1000 miles away so I can't check it out myself or take it anywhere. It's at a dealership (non-Subaru) though from a recent trade in.

Yes, I have a 2004 H6 with the exact same noise!!! The car has 106K miles on it. Had it for 3 years. My noise has not changed. Mechanic Zack with Subydocs.com tells me that it is the oil filled hydrolic tensioner/lifter (my terms). Cheaper to replace the engine than to repair.~ $1000 with labor. The H6, as you and others know, has a timing chain. So, entire chain assembly must be replaced to fix it. Which is about the same cost as a new engine.

Bought the car for under $6K, 3 years ago. No change in noise. No regrets and I'm ok with doing that. You decide what is best for you. Candidly, as the others suggested, test drive the car and have a certified Subaru mechanic use a stethescope on it

Cheers from SC- If the car is close to me, I'll be glad to take a look at it. PM me, if interested
 
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