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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Car: 2005 Outback XT
Posts: 47
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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After putting the snow tires on my wife's new car, I decided I really need a good torque wrench. The first thing I noticed is that the variety of torque ranges you can get is all over the place. So my question is, what range would be best for general car maintenance? I won't be surprised if the answer is that I have to buy 2 to cover the high and low ranges. Also, if you have a torque wrench you really like, let me know.
Thanks, Kirk |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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After much back and forth, I went with this one
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more It was actually really difficult to choose. That one has a torque range from 0-75 ft. lbs., which is plenty, cuz I'm pretty sure even the torque values for the lug nuts is less than that. I went with that one cuz it was the cheapest, the most accurate, and the beam type wrenches are the only ones that have Craftsman's lifetime guarantee. The tremendous drawback to that wrench though is that the head doesn't rotate. So, if want to measure the torque on your spark plugs, for example, and the handle doesn't line up just right for you to be able to have it sticking out in the air instead of running into something else in the engine bay, you can't measure them. But it was cheap. When I have money to spend, I may end up getting a $100 ratcheting torque wrench that'll probably fail on me in 5 years. But until then, I'll stick with this one. If you have that extra cash, then I'd say go with something like this Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more 5-80 ft. lbs. range, and I don't think you'll need anything out of that range on a car. someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that. so far I haven't run across anything that has torque values out of that range. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Nepean ON Canada
Car: 07 OBW 2.5i Touring (SE) D-4AT
Posts: 6,929
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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Most torque wrenches are designed to be used toward the center of their ranges, and are usually more accurate there than at the extremes.
Torque wrenches reaching up to 200+ ft-lbs are usually 1/2 drive. Lower torque range wrenches will be found with 3/8 inch drives, and very low range ones have a 1/4 inch drive. It's best to match the torque wrench to the job, and if you're doing work on your car generally, that would mean having more than one. Beam type torque wrenches are not as accurate as the "clicker" type, but they are far less expensive. Again, if you're going to be doing work, even regularly changing over the tires, the investment in a good unit will be paid back over time both monetarily and in the confidence in the work. (Torque wrenches are sensitive tools -- read and follow the instructions on care and maintenance.) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Humboldt County, CA
Car: 2008 OB XT Limited; 2002 Impreza 2.5TS
Posts: 1,268
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Get the "click" type. They cost a bit more, but they're about a zillion times easier to use.
I think Subaru only wants their lug nuts torqued to 55lbs-ft (less than you'd think), so something going to 75 or 80lbs-ft should really be plenty. Torque figures are usually ±10%, so it's not SO critical that it be perfectly accurate, it's really just so that you get it tight enough but don't badly overtighten. Bimmer |
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#5 (permalink) |
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;}
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Southern Ca
Car: 00 outback
Posts: 5,199
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Like plainom said, the larger ones really don't work at their stated "low range" settings... they don't usually really click anyway.
I've got a 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". I really only use the half inch one on things that require higher torque like crank pulleys and lug nuts. It seems most of the time I feel like pulling one out .. it won't fit where I want it anyway so, I end up with the "that seems right" method anyway. I have a old beam style one somewhere out in the garage, they work but, it's kind of hard to read the gauge and apply torque at the same time unless you're in some rare situation where you aren't on your knees or contorted in a weird position. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Nepean ON Canada
Car: 07 OBW 2.5i Touring (SE) D-4AT
Posts: 6,929
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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Quote:
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Car: MY2008 OB 2.5i MT
Posts: 12
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I looked through the shop manual at all the torque specs, and the highest value is the lugnuts at 81ft-lb, so I bought a click-type 3/8" torquen wrench from Harbor Freight for $30 and verified its calibration at work, it was right on out of the box.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Gaithersburg, MD
Car: 2011 2.5L Premium All Weather 6 speed Manual transmission
Posts: 61
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I have a torque wrench noob question. On my old car, my idea of applying the proper torque was jumping onto the tire iron. when I bought my new OB two weeks go, I decided to get real torque wrench. I just picked one up from H.F. I just want to make sure I understand how it works. I was expecting it to work similarly to a gas can cap: once you tighten it enough, it will stop turning and will be clicking no matter how many times you keep turning it. After having achieved the right torque when the wrench clicks, if I keep applying pressure, it will keep turning the lug nut. So is the proper way to use the torque wrench, to stop after the first click?
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northern Virginia, USA
Car: '11 OB 3.6 Premium, AWP, HK/ Moonroof, etc.
Posts: 585
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
To the OP, the Digitorque from Craftsman are very nice. The two I use the most are 6- 80 lb-feet and 50- 250 lb- feet. As a previous poster mentioned, the middle 2/3rds are where it is most accurate. If you have ever stripped out a aluminum head, or wrenched off a wheel stud then you learn the value of a good torque wrench!
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