5EAT in 2wd problem...........

[plain OM]

Interesting point.

In this case I believe the codes are old stored ones, not current problems, because when there is a sensor code, the ABS is supposed to be deactivated and this in turn should mean the ABS warning light is on. But it does leave the possibility that an old code might still somehow interact with the AWD control.

I believe stored ABS codes on the 05+ can only be erased with the SSM, so it would still mean a trip to the dealer.

[AWDPete]

Yes, I believe the the ABS codes are from several years back when I get her stuck in the snow - a trip to the carwash cleared it up.

I reset the ECU and took it for a drive: the problem is still there and no new codes

Oh, I just checked again to be sure - all the dash lights do indeed work.

[plain OM]

I think there's two options at this point (others might have additional suggestions).

One is to try a fluid changeover. It's sort of the standard first suggestion here in these types of situations. Usually the idea is to do a drain and refill (about 4 qts in the 4 speed), and then repeat this twice again after driving each time for a while to thoroughly mix the new and old (for a total of three drains and refills). This leaves you with mostly new fluid. If there's gum or something causing sticking of solenoids or valves, the new fluid might dissolve it. There's been quite a few reports here that this has worked, although as far as I can recall these are with the 4 speed automatics. But the systems are similar. Doing this on a 4 speed would require about 13 or 14 quarts at about $8 each (Subaru Type HP) but is almost as easy to do as an engine oil change. (See the thread "changing automatic transmission fluid is easy" in the DIY section.)

The other is to take it to a shop that has the equipment to do the type of diagnosis outlined above. I would imagine this would cost at least an hour's labor, maybe more if nothing shows up immediately and they are willing to do some real time tracking and analysis.

[AWDPete]

So I pulled the rear wheel off (the one that threw the sensor code) to take a look at the sensor but I was unable to get the rotor off - grrr! I looked at the sensor wire and it looked fine so I tried to unbolt the sensor but it felt like the bolt might snap so I left it alone - more grrr!! Took it for a drive and let it get good and warm, went down a pretty steep/windy road in Sport mode: no engine braking at all but the Sport light started flashing so I pulled over and checked the codes: now all I get is the co106? When I took off the Sport light was no longer flashing. Stupid Subie.

[plain OM]

I'm not sure we can diagnose this from a distance.

In any event, I'm wondering -- At any time when the car didn't seem to be running right, did you happen to notice what the reading was in the trip meter (trip miles)? If not, and if the car acts up again, check it. Does it continue to read the trip miles or does read something like Er followed by two letters (e.g. SS)?

If the Er indication shows up, it means there could be a failure in the LAN communications system between the various microprocessors that control the engine, transmission, ABS etc.

[AWDPete]

I've never "noticed" anything other than the actual trip 'miles' in the trip meter, would it be brief or blinking or just flash up and go back to miles?

I'm wondering if heating the rotor trying to get it off melted an ice build-up on the stator? I will try warming the front as I did the rear. Nope - didn't change a thing

I'm disliking this car more every day

[plain OM]

The Erxx indication will remain as long as the symptom is present, and will come on only after the OBD has confirmed that there is a communications problem. It was just an idea that came up . . .

[AWDPete]

Well I took the car to a friend who has a local shop, he had it for two days and two nights trying to figure it out. He says the car seems to work fine and asks me to come drive it. We take the car for a drive and all is fine! I ask him what he did and he tells me 'nothing' other then check it with his Napa scan tool which revealed no codes.



My best guess is....I have no idea! Other then sitting in his heated shop overnight.



I still need to change the trans fluid, can anyone suggest a source for it?



Thanks everyone for your help :-)

[plain OM]

I still need to change the trans fluid, can anyone suggest a source for it?

Subaru ATF-Type HP is available only through Subaru dealers (local or on-line).

[AWDPete]

I just finished typing a long very detailed report of what's happening with my trans only to have this website eat it

so here is an abreviated version because I am a slow typer

changed the trans fluid in may, it came out clean, not burnt and no metal shavings. work fine for a month then it happened again. front wheel drive only, trans totally disengages above 40 mph, no engine braking, will re-engage with a clunk once it gets below 40 mph. stays engaged with no slipping below 40 mph. been this way for 6 months.

took to Sube dealer, found code P1706, states it has a major mechanical failure and will replace with a rebuilt for $4613.85. talked to the tech, said the trans fluid looks fine. I asked him how it could be major mechanicle failure without any visable signs of failure - he gets all defensive and admits he doesn't know specifically what is wrong with it.

took it to a local foreign car shop who does a lot of work on Subes, says he's never seen this problem before. let's his tech drive it home for a week and says it's working fine. I picked it up tonight and the trans shifts and holds gear fine but it's still only in front wheel drive - excellent tech guy

Has anyone ever had any issues like this? any help would be greatly appreciated..........I'm at wits end