help- pulley problem! - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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help- pulley problem!

hi all new here well heres the problem i was driving home and my crankshaft pully fell off so i got a new pully and timing gear and key took the covers off and now i am trying to install the gear and key the key is a half round does the flat end of the key go to the crankshaft or the gear and do i have to hold key in place and slide the gear over it or put gear on frist then the key

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 11:20 PM
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1: Howdy and welcome to the forums.

2: I moved this thread to proper forum, this is not a Do It Yourself thread thus it does not belong in that forum.

3: I edited your title, "help" was a little too vague for anyone to know what to expect or on what subject matter. I.e- If your thread title is specific, then people who know about the issue will notice it much faster than just "help" which may will just ignore.

4: What car and engine are you talking about? Miles? Service history? Not enough information has been provided for us to help with your problem.

5: I'm having a really hard time reading your thread due to the lack of punctuation, are you asking how to install the new pulley?

Have you tried using the Google search bar at the top of the forum?

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2011, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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its a 1999 outback 2.5 L when the crank pully fell off i got a new parts what i need to know is how does the keyway goes on.The crankshaft and timing gear.The keyway or woodruff key is half round.What i need to know is does the flat part of the key sit on the crankshaft or the rounded side.Also do i hold the key in place and slide the timing gear over it or do i put the gear on then try to the key in. This is not covered in my repair book
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2011, 11:07 PM
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The round end of the key goes in the slot on the crank then the timing gear goes on. when it is properly set, half of the key will be expased so that the crank pulley/balancer can key in also. Torque that bolt to spec if you don't want a repeat failure.

My other car is a Subaru.... Come to think of it, so is my other other car

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2011, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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thank you
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2011, 11:46 PM
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Torque that bolt to spec if you don't want a repeat failure.
According to the factory service manual, torque spec on the crank bolt is 130 +/- 7 ft-lbs. I believe that at least one aftermarket manual (Haynes) has it at 90 ft-lbs ... this is wrong.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-14-2011, 12:37 PM
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the *key* (pun intended) here is not the key. i've had completely mangled crank shafts that couldn't hold a key...because of the issue you're having now...that could no longer accept a key they were so bad. but if you crank it tight enough - it's not coming off. the key is unecessary, though i don't recommend it if you don't know what you're donig. i use a the socket wrench and a long 3 foot pipe and crank it REALLY tight. crank is iron and you'd have to try really hard to strip those threads.

key first, it stays in the crank. it might not accept it though if the crank is mangled, i've seen that multiple times.

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