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#22 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Draper, UT
Car: 2008 2.5i Outback
Posts: 726
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#23 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Car: 2002 Subaru Outback Limited - 2.5 L Boxer H4 - 5 Speed Manual
Posts: 251
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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#24 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: home of the Jayhawks
Car: 06 OBW 2.5i NA
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Nobody said to check ball joints and tie rod ends? Both of those will case a vibration while driving that will get more violent under braking. Also, jack the car up and check that you don't have a caliper with a seized slider pin. That will cause a vibration as the brakes on the offendeng wheel heat up.
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#25 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Car: 2001 Outback AWP 2.5 - 2005 Outback L.L.Bean 3.0
Posts: 85
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My wife's '01 had horrible inner tie rod ends along with very warped rotors when we first got it. Trust me, it was a harrowing experience if you ever had to slow from 55 to 0 in a hurry! I did all the work myself, but if I had it to do over again I would let the dealership do the tie rods. (You need like three hands to get one of the inner tie rod boots on, but the other one was easy enough though.) Starting with the rotors is a good idea, as if it isn't fixed with that you can move towards the more expensive fixes. It always sucks when you replace tie rods and it really turned out to be a wheel bearing or something else! |
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#26 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Car: 2002 Subaru Outback Limited - 2.5 L Boxer H4 - 5 Speed Manual
Posts: 251
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Thank you guys for the help |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Car: 2002 Subaru Outback Limited - 2.5 L Boxer H4 - 5 Speed Manual
Posts: 251
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Well, I jacked up the Sube today and tried to look under it, though I had no idea what to look for, haha...
regarding what I think is the tie rod, it looks one of the joints (i think?) that connect to each wheel was messed up. One side looked normal - dry, moved but not too easily, just normally. The other side, though, was covered in a thick grease/grime, and seemed too loose, as though it was moving on that joint too easily. Mean anything? Ball joints themselves seemed okay, I remember what a bad ball joint felt like on my Jeep, haha.. Any ideas? Also, update on all the other problems: In three weeks, my mechanic is going to replace the head gaskets, water pump, timing belt, clutch, and try to fix this problem with the shaking wheel. |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Troy, NY
Car: 1999 Legacy SUS Ltd, BGM, 4EAT
Posts: 155
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I de/re-mounted one of the front wheels a couple days ago and the vibrations seemed to ease up for me. Will try the other and see if it clears up; willing to blame the impact guns' excess torque for now (or lack of - I could tighten w/o any effort with the lug wrench).
Does anyone specify some symptoms to look at with the suspension, tie rods, joints, etc. while jacked up? Wiggling the wheel only seems have a bit of steering play, and makes no noise.
__________________
I sometimes feel I need to apologize for being far more verbose than is necessary in a lot of situations, especially on the internet - I've probably already done it plenty on this foru- shucks, I'm doing it again, aren't I?
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#29 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Car: 2002 Subaru Outback Limited - 2.5 L Boxer H4 - 5 Speed Manual
Posts: 251
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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#30 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Virginia
Car: 01 Outback H6 VDC, 97 GT wgn w/ ej22, 98 OBW w/ej22
Posts: 978
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it there a standard tool i can use to clean up the mating surface of the lug nuts. i'm finding it more and more difficult to get the nuts to seat evenly and equality.
suggestions? |
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