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Old 05-26-2012, 11:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New front differential drain plug gasket 803926090

Dear All,

Subaru has changed the front differential drain plug gasket from old copper one to a new black gasket with part # 803926090. It looks like the material of this gasket is aluminum, but, I am not sure. FSM shows two different torque settings for their previous gaskets. They are 52.6 ft-lb for copper gasket and 32.5 ft-lb for a previous aluminum gasket. I wonder if anyone knows the correct torque settings for the new black gasket.

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Old 08-20-2012, 07:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Anyone have the answer?
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Old 08-20-2012, 07:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default 2005 Outback front differential drain plug gasket

Aluminum Gasket 32.5 foot pounds
Copper Gasket 51.6 foot pounds

Sorry, I see that is already provided.
Sorry, I cannot help you.
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Old 08-20-2012, 07:53 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Aluminum Gasket 32.5 foot pounds
Copper Gasket 51.6 foot pounds

Sorry, I see that is already provided.
Sorry, I cannot help you.
Thanks, but, the torque value provided for the Aluminum gasket is not essentially for the new 803926090 gasket, but, for a previous Aluminum gasket. In fact, I do not know if the material of 803926090 is Aluminum or something else, but, it looks like Aluminum on one side with some fiber material on the other side. The new FSM may provide a better torque value, but, my old FSM may not be up to date. The problem that I am having is that when I tightened the transmission/differential drain plug to 32.5 lb ft, it leaks a very little amount which is not that noticable, but, still a leak. I still prefer the old copper gasket, 803926070, (which is not available any more) which never leaked on me. I can't find an aftermarket copper gasket either.
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I changed my existing fluid (@122,000 miles), we bought the 2005 OB brand new. I changed all the fluids to full-synthetic. I bought a copper washer at the auto store and it was a bit too large, it would not fit over the threads of the drain bolt. I put it on a round file and put the edge of it against my bench grinder so it would spin and remove some from both inner and outer diameters, until it fit. I then carefully sanded the copper washer on a piece of glass using 400 grit then 600 grit paper to eliminate the burrs I created. After torquing it down and installing new Valvoline SynPower 75W-90 oil (for long Vermont winters), I have yet to drive it as I am replacing all the struts, all the brakes, both tie rod ends, the right front inner tie rod, parking brakes, new drums and discs, among other things.

I do see that what I made does not leak at all.
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Saint J VT View Post
I changed my existing fluid (@122,000 miles), we bought the 2005 OB brand new. I changed all the fluids to full-synthetic. I bought a copper washer at the auto store and it was a bit too large, it would not fit over the threads of the drain bolt. I put it on a round file and put the edge of it against my bench grinder so it would spin and remove some from both inner and outer diameters, until it fit. I then carefully sanded the copper washer on a piece of glass using 400 grit then 600 grit paper to eliminate the burrs I created.
I do see that what I made does not leak at all.
Saint J,

Thank you for sharing your experience.

Could you please reference your source (if you remember). I will try to replicate the same. I assume that you torqued your custom cooper gasket down to 51.5 ft lb, didn't you?

I use Subaru Extra-S 75W-90 as I have a 5sp MT. I do not want to use aftermarket synthetic fluid and ruin my syncros.
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I opened a one-year account with:
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I will double-check the torque on that!
Thank you for the reminder, as I may have used the lower setting.
I did need to buy a #70 Torx socket
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The new "black" washer is definitely not copper or aluminum -- it's magnetic.

I more recently posted the same question here: Changing Front Differential Fluid. Automatic Transmission

As noted in that post, I'm wondering if the "copper" washer might in fact have been steel, or at least a ferrous material, with a copper coating, and not all copper. I don't have a copper washer to test, and I'm reluctant to remove the current one that's on the plug without knowing what torque to use for the replacement. But if it turns out that the copper washer was in fact steel and that it's possible the only change has been to a different coating (due to copper costs), then the 52 ft-lbs torque value might still apply.

Anyone have a Subaru copper washer, even used, to see if it's magnetic?
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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In looking for the OEM one that I removed, which was copper, as I did test it with a magnet, I cannot find it, I might have tossed it after the new one worked.

The new one is solid copper as I ground down both the interior and exterior diameters and no bare metal other than copper was visible. Also, when I sanded both sides smooth, no other metal but copper was visible. HOWEVER, that washer was from the auto parts store.
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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OK, I just went under and checked the T70 bottom drain bolt on the front differential. It is tightened to 51 foot-pounds.

I got to thinking, if you have a round magnet, did they give you a magnet that I believe is located inside the transmission oil pan?

I changed my trans oil and the filter is in the left fender, behind the battery. I took the 'out' hose from the filter holder and connected it to a clear hose and down into a gallon container that I could see on the floor when sitting in the driver seat, and changed my 10 quarts of automatic transmission oil by first just draining the pan, putting the plug back (with new aluminum crush gasket like the engine oil plug gets), putting the same amount of new oil in that I just drained, starting and letting the gallon jug fill halfway (in about ten seconds), shut off, put the same amount (2 quarts) new in the trans, start again and repeat for all ten quarts.

Before all ten quarts were drained and changed, the fluid was a brownish color, the last quart or two coming out were red just like going in (full synthetic Valvoline Dexron VI, which is supposed to be backwards-compatible with the required Dexron III for my trans).

Right off, the trans shifted better! Before, the shifting would change a bit, shifts not being consistent, whereas, now, each gear feels the same and it shifts right up and down, no problems. I very rarely use the manual shift option with the automatic transmission shifter, so I cannot tell how it is if I were in "racing" mode.
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