do you still have a CEL?

there are several trouble codes on the odb2 system that will trigger TCU trans codes and a flashing ATTemp light.the MAF is one of them if you have one.

another is TPS.

it could be this is a left over TCU code. but if you have a CEL it is probalbvt current.

FYI: the TCU / AT Templight indicates a trouble code during the NEXT drive cycle, not the drive cycle that causes the problem. so if you addressed the intake proble imediately this is probably a left over.

To check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process:

1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off.
2: Turn ignition on.
3: Move selector to 2.
4: Move selector to 3.
5: Move selector to D.
6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly.

7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles.

8: Turn ignition off, then back on.
9: Move selector to 3.
10: Move selector to 2.
11: Move selector to 1.
12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly.

13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle.

GD













D: LIST OF TROUBLE CODE
1. TROUBLE CODE
Code Item Content of diagnosis Abbr. Page

11 Duty solenoid A
Detects open or shorted drive circuit, as well as valve seizure. PL 16

12 Duty solenoid B
Detects open or shorted drive circuit, as well as valve seizure. L/U 20

13 Shift solenoid 3
Detects open or shorted drive circuit, as well as valve seizure. OVR 24

14 Shift solenoid 2
Detects open or shorted drive circuit, as well as valve seizure. SFT2 26

15 Shift solenoid 1
Detects open or shorted drive circuit, as well as valve seizure. SFT1 28

16 Torque control cut signal
Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. TQ.DS 30

21 ATF temperature sensor
Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. ATFT 32

22 Mass air flow signal
Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. AFM 35

23 Engine speed signal
Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. EREV 37

24 Duty solenoid C
Detects open or shorted drive circuit, as well as valve seizure. 4WD 39

25 Torque control signal
Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. TQ.CT 41

31 Throttle position sensor
Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. THV 43

32 Vehicle speed sensor 1
Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. VSP1 46

33 Vehicle speed sensor 2
Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. VSP2 50

 

Thanks for the great reply canubaru! I think I'll print that for future reference.

I think it was a left over, when I restarted the car the light stopped flashing. I thought it would have gone away as soon as I replaced the air intake sensor...I started the car and cleared the P0113 but when the AT light kept blinking I thought to myself "oh crap, whadIdonow?".

After posting I had to move the car, and sure enough no lights were flashing at me.

Thanks again!

 

It seems I just got a 16, 21, 22, 23 and 25, what does all of that mean?

 

It seems I just got a 16, 21, 22, 23 and 25, what does all of that mean?

i had the same codes in my history. but none of them were current, they were all stored from before. i think this may be what you get when you swap an engine and power it up with ''stuff'' disconnected. but i'm not really sure. but this explanation fits perfectly with my engine swap.

what is the history of the car?

and what year, model, miles, trans?

service history?

 

1995 Subaru Legacy, automatic transmission, don't know what the model is, 275,000 miles, regular oil changes, not driven daily as I work from home. I've had the car for almost 10 years.

 

No engine swap, no major changes, the AT TEMP light just started flashing.

 

I have been smelling "burning oil" not sure what kind, ATF or engine oil, and on some occasions of hard driving it smokes out from under the hood.

 

No engine swap, no major changes, the AT TEMP light just started flashing.

i would install a fuse in the FWD fuse holder under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall and the wiper motor. black about the size of a zippo lighter.

if this ''does not'' eliminate the ATTemp light you have a bad duty c solenoid (code 24) in the rear extension housing on the trans. this bad duty c solenoid will cause torque bind, ''binding'' in tight turns. drive the car in slow tight turns on dry pavement to test. if it is smooth, and will turn at idle speeds then there is no binding. if you have to give it some gas or goose the pedal to get it to go and it shutters and jumps, that is binding.

if the fuse in does eliminate the binding you have another issue with the trans.

but that many codes is odd , very odd for them to all be current. i think those are the stored codes. if they are all current then my guess would be something is unplugged or the mice ate your wires.

how does the car drive. does it start out normal and shift up through all the gears?

 

i would install a fuse in the FWD fuse holder under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall and the wiper motor. black about the size of a zippo lighter.

if this ''does not'' eliminate the ATTemp light you have a bad duty c solenoid (code 24) in the rear extension housing on the trans. this bad duty c solenoid will cause torque bind, ''binding'' in tight turns. drive the car in slow tight turns on dry pavement to test. if it is smooth, and will turn at idle speeds then there is no binding. if you have to give it some gas or goose the pedal to get it to go and it shutters and jumps, that is binding.

if the fuse in does eliminate the binding you have another issue with the trans.

but that many codes is odd , very odd for them to all be current. i think those are the stored codes. if they are all current then my guess would be something is unplugged or the mice ate your wires.

how does the car drive. does it start out normal and shift up through all the gears?

[QUOTE="mtlmstr, post: 430307, member: 40026"8]
A "15" fuse in the FWD box under the hood causes the red FWD light to come on in the dash but does not eliminate the flashing of the AT TEMP light.
[/QUOTE]
I have a 04 outback and I just rebuilt the whole thing can't get the light to stop blinking but what you need is a new ecu and ignition switch. Ecu located in the floor of the passager side of the car. But you will need the ignition switch when you replace the ecu or you won't be able to start your car. I'm willing to bet if you pull the ECU and open it you'll find amps blown and it will smell like burning.electronics. 🙂 Lmk how it works out for you

 

After the flashing light goes out the car drives like nothing is wrong but I still get the burning oil smell. I'm taking it to the car wash tomorrow to clean under the hood and what I can reach under it so it wil be easier to check for leaks. We did the drive in a tight circle under no power test, just an idle and it was perfectly smooth. It shifts at all speeds, passes on the highway just as well as it always has, not a problem other than the flashing light and burning oil smell. The tiny oil leak under it seems to be a little more than it was but that looks like engine oil, not red, so that is a problem I have had for years, a common Subaru problem I was told just maybe worse now. I will look for that fuse tomorrow, any way to tell if it's blown?? Thank you so much for your help and suggestions!

 

A "15" fuse in the FWD box under the hood causes the red FWD light to come on in the dash but does not eliminate the flashing of the AT TEMP light.

 

I have a 04 outback and I just rebuilt the whole thing can't get the light to stop blinking but what you need is a new ecu and ignition switch. Ecu located in the floor of the passager side of the car. But you will need the ignition switch when you replace the ecu or you won't be able to start your car. I'm willing to bet if you pull the ECU and open it you'll find amps blown and it will smell like burning.electronics. 🙂 Lmk how it works out for you