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Old 07-11-2012, 11:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
dvl
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I appreciate the suggestion, but the work is nearly done.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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What I can't imagine is how two pulleys failed so catastrophically, and yet the belt looks like it didn't derail. Those pulleys are merely that - free spinning parts that don't drive anything. Unless they were never installed straight when your engine was first built. Maybe they were bolted in too tight and were binding this whole time, and finally gave up the ghost.

Can you visit the car before repairs have begun to get any more pictures? Or try spinning the water pump and see it its really seized. Best case scenario is the belt didn't jump any teeth at the cam sprockets, or else you may risk bent valves.

edit: nevermind - just saw your post about the work being finished already. Would be neat if you could ask them for the failed pulley or tensioner, and just nail it up somewhere in the garage as a "trophy".
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:44 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thank you for the suggestion. However, the work is nearly done.... and I bet the old timing belt is already off.

Oh, sorry, I posted this when I didn't see my original post in the comments, but now I see it there..
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Oh, and yes, I think you are correct: the timing belt looked to me (a novice) to be in place.
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Got a call back from the dealer.

The engine runs. There is slight valve tap, but it runs.

Also: the clutch is going. Not surprised. I may be hard on clutches.

And a brake tail light is out.
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You may want to ask them to do both compression and leakdown tests to make sure the valves are OK.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:42 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks.

Called them, and asked about these tests. He figured: the engine is showing no signs of misfire, so that indicates no head or valve damage. The valve tapping shows they need adjusting, but it's nothing which affects the drive-ability of the vehicle.

The car should be available today. I've got a weekend trip away, but I may use another vehicle for that. :/
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:51 AM   #18 (permalink)
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No misfire MAY indicate no head or valve damage. Unfortunately, it is not 100% sure until those tests are performed.
As you get your car back, keep an eye on the valve tap noise. It'd be nice if you post a sound clip of it. I had a similiar 'disaster' happened to me where my timing belt tensioner gave out while driving and sheared off the engine block. Timing belt became loose and I guess I switched off the car at the right moment before disaster occured. I put a new T belt and new tensioner and pulleys myself. Fortunately the car is running fine (apparently 5000 miles later) but I do get valve tap noise around 1200 rpm under load louder than before. Good luck.
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Couple mods done:
---> LCP Perrin.
---> K&N panel filter.
---> Whiteline rear swaybar.
---> AVO adjustable rear endlinks
---> AVO reinforced brackets
---> Rallitek overload springs
---> 00-04 KYB rear struts
---> U-Haul hitch.
---> Big 3 done (1/0 gauge)
---> MMATS PRO AUDIO D3000.1 amp
---> MMATS Dreadnaut 15
---> LA amp for mids/highs S2.300.1
---> Soundstream pre amp
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:00 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I may ask my local garage to do those tests for me. See what they say.

As for an audio clip, sure I can do that. My phone can do that. Hood up, engine on, phone above the engine?
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:07 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvl View Post
I may ask my local garage to do those tests for me. See what they say.
Sure. It should not be too pricey to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dvl View Post
As for an audio clip, sure I can do that. My phone can do that. Hood up, engine on, phone above the engine?
^I would do that while someone slightly revs up the engine especially between 700 to 2500 rpm.
But then it'd also be nice to get another audio clip while the engine is under load. That I think is perhaps more important. So for instance in a parking lot, you could put the car in first gear and slowly get the car rolling while holding the phone outside the driver's side window to record the engine sound. To increase engine load, you could try on an uphill while keeping revs low. Make sure your phone is doing high quality audio recording.
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Couple mods done:
---> LCP Perrin.
---> K&N panel filter.
---> Whiteline rear swaybar.
---> AVO adjustable rear endlinks
---> AVO reinforced brackets
---> Rallitek overload springs
---> 00-04 KYB rear struts
---> U-Haul hitch.
---> Big 3 done (1/0 gauge)
---> MMATS PRO AUDIO D3000.1 amp
---> MMATS Dreadnaut 15
---> LA amp for mids/highs S2.300.1
---> Soundstream pre amp
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