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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Car: 2003 Outback, 5 MT, 134K, HG changed.
Posts: 183
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Did the car overheat severely before you did the HG job? If it did, did you have the heads checked and machined for flatness? I wonder if the heads may have warped before, and there is still a leak somewhere, even though you reported you're not loosing any coolant.
The other part I don't understand is why it would over heat at a steady cruising rpm on the highway, but be fine on back roads. I figured all the starting / stopping / rpm changes on back roads would cause over heating, whereas a steady load and lots of air passing over everything on the highway would make things cooler. Am I thinking about that all wrong? |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
Car: 03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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Quote:
__________________
Time Flies Like an Arrow, Fruit Flies Like a Banana! |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 44
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Quote:
I'm confused as well, I'm trying to put all the clues together and come up with what I hope is the right answer... we'll see. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 44
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Quote:
Could also be a small leak high in the system. Someplace where it can suck in air but isn't going to piss fluid? |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 11,761
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Make sure that the thermostat used was OEM subaru part the cheap aftermarket thermostats are known for killing subarus due to them not working well in the subaru system. Next would be a radiator which is plugged up and restricting flow of the coolant causing you issues at higher speeds when the cooling should be far better than the slower speeds.
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#18 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 11,761
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If your not seeing a drop in coolant then chances are your system is sealed and no leaks. A block crack is rare but not unheard of but I would expect you would see a drop in coolant levels if that were the case. The easy things and assumption would be some sort of flow issue at the higher speeds causing the temp rise vs it seeming to be OK at the slower speeds.
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Mountains of NM
Car: 2012 limited, white, no moonroof or nav
Posts: 740
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One more possibility........You say you had lower radiator hoses replaced......If they are not stiff enough, the hose can collapse under suction from the water pump. This would only happen at high RPM, and would account for the heater not putting out hot air, until the engine is shut down and restarted......(Vacuum would be relieved when the engine shuts down).
If you can easily close the hose with your hand, this could be the issue. I don't know the design of these hoses, but if they are supposed to have a spring inside, and it was left out, that would be your problem. Good luck. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 44
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Update: Did the block test it was negative (good news). Changed out the lower radiator hose, flushed the system and replaced the fluid. Drove 18 minutes to the highway (with the AC on) no over heating, on the highway for 5 minutes and the temp started to creep up. Put the heat on and the temp never got into the red, and did come back down to about 3/4. Got off the highway about 10 minutes later. About 2 minutes after that the temp came down. Shut off the heat. No problems for the rest of the drive, about 45 minutes. ???
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