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Old 07-14-2012, 07:38 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Update: Did the block test it was negative (good news). Changed out the lower radiator hose, flushed the system and replaced the fluid. Drove 18 minutes to the highway (with the AC on) no over heating, on the highway for 5 minutes and the temp started to creep up. Put the heat on and the temp never got into the red, and did come back down to about 3/4. Got off the highway about 10 minutes later. About 2 minutes after that the temp came down. Shut off the heat. No problems for the rest of the drive, about 45 minutes. ???
Oh 1 more thing. Lots of gurgling coming from the heater core (I'm guessing). I'm going to try to burp the system tomorrow and see what happens.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:50 AM   #22 (permalink)
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So after burping the system this weekend (twice) still overheating... Yesterday, the temp never rose to over 3/4 this morning I had to pull over on the highway to stop it from getting too hot. Shut off the engine for 10 seconds, turned it back on, cranked the defroster and drove the rest of the way with the temp in the upper end of the middle. (sorry if that doesn't make sense) Yesterday morning and this morning I did take a minute before I left to burp the upper hose and there was deffinatey a little air in it.

When got off the highway this morning the temp went up. When I started moving it went back down. Pulled into my parking spot it went up again. After I reved up the engine it started to cool back down. Once it cooled down it stayed cool.

So I've determined that I have no clue!

It must be some type of blockage I'm guessing... Radiator? Try burping the system a few more times?
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:56 AM   #23 (permalink)
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fan operation has been confirmed right?

maybe run without a thermostat?

weak tensioner allows TB to slide over water pump?

I dunno - very weird.
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:21 AM   #24 (permalink)
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fan operation has been confirmed right?

maybe run without a thermostat?

weak tensioner allows TB to slide over water pump?

I dunno - very weird.
Yes, fans work great and come on at the correct temp.

Hmmm.. I could check the TB tension. I did replace the water pump and TB when I did the HG.

I would almost think it was the HG leaking (I'm a rookie after all) if I didn't test the **** out of it with the block leak test kit. Plus I'm not loosing fluid. It just has to be a flow problem or maybe a pin-hole allowing some air to be sucked in? Maybe the WP is crap? It's not an OEM. I'm definately getting some flow because you can hear it from time to time. I think my next steps are to burp a few more times and if that doesn't work change the RAD.

If I had hair, I'd be tearing it out...
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:05 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I'm a new Subaru owner so I'm pretty green, But on a VW I had did the same thing happen. Turned out to be a bad thermostat ( which was new). On the Subaru can you remove the thermostat and reassemble? That way you can see if it overheats without a thermostat.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:36 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Ya, I tested the thermostat, by popping it in boiling water, and it was ok.

I think I might be narrowing it down a little..

Took the back road home after it started to heat up on the highway this afternoon, about 5 minutes or so into that drive the temp was still about 3/4 even with the heat on. I pulled into a parking lot and looked for visible problems. Both hoses were hot and hard. No bubbles in the over-flow and it wasn't over flowing. I shut the car off, turned it back on almost immediately. Started pulling out of the parking lot and the temp was coming down. Took about 30 seconds, temp back to normal through the rest of the drive, even without the heat on. My guess, air?
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:12 PM   #27 (permalink)
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So, this past weekend, I burped the system, again. I put the car up on ramps, removed the cap and let it run for about 40 minutes. I definately saw air bubles that seemed to go away. I drove the car on the highway Monday morning, no problems! Temp gague never moved from the normal temp. On the way home... heated up to about 3/4. Never turned on the heat and it didn't get any warmer than the 3/4 mark. Once off the highway, it did cool back down to normal. Before leaving the house this morning, I took the cap off and squeezed some air out of the upper hose, a few bubbles. Drove on the highway, no over heating. We'll see what happens on the way home tonight.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:37 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Ok, so i'm still having overheating issues. In addition to the other items listed in this thread, I've just replaced the radiator and burped the system. I drove it on the highway, no overheating! but... when I took the exit, as soon as I slowed, the temp spiked. Back on the highway, it was mostly ok but the temp did rise a little and came right back down. Same thing when I exited again and ended up having to pull off to let it cool. The temp does come down when the RPMs are increased. Putting the heat on full blast helps too. I burped the system again and immediately drove some back roads and after about 10 minutes of driving the temp spiked. Burped more air out of the system. Drove into the office this morning, no problems for 30 miniutes of highway driving, on exit temp spiked up. I can keep the temp mostly in check by increasing the RPMs.

The water pump is a 6 month old non-oem (duralast from Autozone). Could it not be working well enough to maintain flow? I think the only thing that isn't "new" is the heater hoses and heater core. Oh, I am hearing some water noise in the cabin while driving. Could it relaly be just more air in the system?

Any ideas would be much appreciated...
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:09 AM   #29 (permalink)
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as a test, run without the t'stat.

ever see bubbles in the coolant while idling? use the chemical headgasket test from the parts store.

maybe it isn't overheating and you have a bad temp sender or wiring/electrical issue?

symptoms seem a lot like HGs.

I dunno.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:28 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I might try to run without the t'stat and see what happens. I replaced the HG but I was thinking that might be the issue however no bubbles in the overflow and the chem-test was negative. It's crazy!

I'm pretty sure it isn't the sensor because this last time it almost got to the point of boiling over.

I ran with an OBD reader on it this morning, the temp was in the 199 to 205 range for most of the highway drive. Shot up as I was getting off the highway to 230+.

You know, I added a "T" to the upper heater hose for flushing the system... I've double and tripple checked the connections and cap but could it be causing an obstruction?

One other observation while I was burping.... I watched a video of someone burping an older (90s ish) Legacy and when he reved the engine after the T-stat was open the coolant cycled like a "cyclone" then spilled out. When I did it the coolant didn't, it was more like it over-flowed. Not sure if that makes any sense but I'm trying to put everything out there I can remember.

Thanks!
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