Couple issues after my Subaru was submerged in water

[frontofresistance]

One more thing. Before I took the fuel filter off I had the shaking fuel problem. Took it off and ran car without the fuel going through filter, still happened. Then I put the fuel filter back on to drive to auto parts store and car ran well for 20 minutes, then shaking problem came back.

I can't make sense of that.

[cardoc]

Originally Posted by frontofresistance

I scanned my computer system today and this is what I got.

P0335: Crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction
P0336: Crankshaft position range performance
P0340: Camshaft Pos bank 1 or single sensor
P0325: Knock sensor 1 circuit bank 1
P0505: Idle air control system
P0443 Evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P1133 DTC definition found, see service manual

As far as the cylinder misfiring that happened over a week ago, we started it without the 2 spark plugs in to try to drain anything that would be in the engine.

As far as the rest of these I have no clue what they mean or how old they are. I had my car running at the time and the fuel problem was not currently happening.

If anyone could give some speculation I'd appreciate it!

You have bad grounds or a bad battery. Check the amperage output of the battery. NOT voltage. AMPS.

Check the ground conductivity from the battery to the block, and again to the body of the car.

Check your alternator output, with a good battery.

If your battery checks out over 450 Amps, check the ground wires for corrosion, breaks or looseness. Clean or repair what you find that's "off".

Low amperage flow on a car is like a low battery on a laptop or phone. The programming slows down as there is not enough current to run programming and all the actuators.

If you have an automatic find it quick before it screws up your transmission.

[frontofresistance]

Originally Posted by cardoc

You have bad grounds or a bad battery. Check the amperage output of the battery. NOT voltage. AMPS.

Check the ground conductivity from the battery to the block, and again to the body of the car.

Check your alternator output, with a good battery.

If your battery checks out over 450 Amps, check the ground wires for corrosion, breaks or looseness. Clean or repair what you find that's "off".

Low amperage flow on a car is like a low battery on a laptop or phone. The programming slows down as there is not enough current to run programming and all the actuators.

If you have an automatic find it quick before it screws up your transmission.

Thank you. It is a manual. I left it up here for 5 days when I went back home and came back to 7 inches of snow and it's not firing again.

How do you know it's bad grounds or bad battery? And how would I check amperage? I've been trying to figure out how to check for amperage without buy an expensive device. Also how would I check the ground conductivity?

Thank you

[outbackpacker3]

The misfires on the 2 cylinders sound to me like the grounds or battery like cardoc said, but i would think it could maybe be the spark plugs

[cardoc]

P0335: Crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction
P0336: Crankshaft position range performance
P0340: Camshaft Pos bank 1 or single sensor
P0325: Knock sensor 1 circuit bank 1
P0505: Idle air control system
P0443 Evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P1133 DTC definition found, see service manual

Because of these codes you pulled from your ECM, you have a conductivity issue. The battery may be showing 12V but it may be short of amperage supply. More than half these codes could be isolated to a bad ground on the intake manifold. There is a main ground lug from the harness that bolts to the intake and is the ground source for the sensors effected in this list.

Find the lost ground and you find your problem.

Easier than explaining how to use a DVOM, just get it to an auto parts store and ask them to check the battery amperage and do a load test. They can also check the amperage output by connecting the ground side of the meter to the intake manifold or alternator case. If the amperage from the batt is high, and the amps at the alt are low, you have a bad cable or connection on the ground side.

The amperage output for the battery shouldn't be less than 350 with a manual transmission, and that's pushing it.

Good luck.

[arthuruscg]

I would also add that the ground might not be loose but instead corroded from being submerged or in a humid environment. I suggest getting a small wire brush and a tube (not the small counter packs) of Dielectric grease. Then every ground you can find, unbolt and clean both sides (wire and car) with the wire brush, to the the point where the metal is shiny. Then coat the surfaces with the dielectric grease and reattach.

Also pull your battery cables and clean the wires and posts.

[cardoc]

No silicones. Silicone is a resistor. Just clean, check for corrosion and reattach. If its corroded, the cable should be replaced or trimmed back to clean it.