#1 Rod Knock, Rebuild or Replace?

[NoCalNick]

Good day all, My 2000 Limited with a SOHC 2.5 has developed a rod knock in #1 cylinder. Evident on start up and mid acceleration, but minor at idle. I believe the engine was starved for oil, but there was no light on to indicate that, pump failure perhaps?
In any event, I'm trying to decide whether to replace the short block (heads and gaskets redone last year) or rebuild the short block with rings and bearings only. I could also replace the long block with a Junkyard motor for short dollars from pick n pull.
Money is a HUGE factor and every 20 bucks counts. The car and motor have 220K on them, but run well, just need the cats replaced to pass smog. The car is in good shape otherwise, new axles, struts, yadda yadda, have had it for over half it's life and it's been good to me.
The other part of the equation is I have a 2003 that I've been using to tow for a small recycling business that's kind of wearing out across the board and will need maintenance soon as well. I only need one of these to be functional and trying to figure if I should fix the 2000 back to good running condition, tow with it and sell the other or sell the 2000 and put money into the 2003. Decisions, decisions, figured I'd turn to y'all for some expert advice and opinions.
I'm fully capable of rebuilding the motor or any other maintenance that needs to be done on them.
2 Birthdays (wife and daughter) this month as well as Xmas, need solutions quickly!!!!

Thanks for your time.
Nick

[rasterman]

I'd part the '00, put some money into the '03 and call the rest of it a savings stash for a future one.

[1 Lucky Texan]

any chance the timing belt could be slapping the inside of the cover? pull the cover and look for clean/'rubbed' spot.

just a hopeful idea

[NoCalNick]

Nope on the timing belt, I know what that sound is like, this one's new last year too. Good thought tho!

[cardoc]

A short block from Subaru is pretty cheap and comes with a 3/36k warranty. Also, LKQ has rebuilt long blocks sometimes available with 3/unlimited warranty.

Do the math, calculate your cost vs payment for replacement or cash on the spot. Any more, keeping a paid off car is cheaper to repair than replace.

[grossgary]

you're sure it's not piston slap or the timing tensioners - the tensioners can loose hydraulic pressure and "knock" as well....but you narrowing it down to #1 makes it sound fairly certain and that's certainly not unheard of for EJ25's.

rebuilds generally aren't that economical..particularly the more you get into them - turning cranks, sizing, machine work, plastigauge, etc. if you're game for throwing new bearings in and calling it day, tear it up.

replacing the short block or long block is generally the simplest and even cheapest solution too. though EJ25's command a high tag due to their persistent issues. that's the main bad thing about buying a used EJ25...you really have no clue how long it has before a head gasket or another bearing issue. friend of mine just went through this...one EJ25 tossed a rod...next EJ25 installed had a rod knock and he paid the mechanic to install so it was of course a big debacle.

i'd be looking for a known good - or at least never overheated/taken care of engine from a board member or wrecked car on craigslist if you can find one.

[NoCalNick]

Thanks y'all, appreciated very much. We'll see how it goes and I'll post the results.