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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: VA
Car: 1999, Legacy Outback, 2.5L, 5 Speed Manual
Posts: 15
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So I have spent the last hour trying to change my oil to no avail the oil plug on the bottom is stuck!
Does anyone have a suggestion for getting it off? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
Posts: 3,085
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In the tool section of the parts store, OReilly's carries it, there is a kit for removing rounded bolts. It lets you use a ratchet. It will allow you to get a grip on the bolt head easier than using vise grip pliers.
Irwin 394002 BOLT-GRIP 5-Piece Bolt Extractor Expansion Set Aside from that, a mapp torch to heat up the bolt, then try to remove it while its hot. Someone overtightened the bolt or its in crossthreaded. Be sure to have a replacement plug handy and check the threads on the pan bung. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Displaced to Chicago.
Car: 2003 2.5 4EAT with AWP.
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Is it rust seized, rounded off, or cross threaded?
If rust: PB Blaster. A few decent taps with a hammer.
__________________
2003 Outback: "Kaylee". 125,000 and counting. Mods: GE Nighthawk low beams, HIR1 9011 high beam upgrade, Nokya 25k yellow fog lights, Fumoto valve, 04 Forester XT shift knob. Basics: G-Oil Bio-based Advanced Full Synthetic 5w30, Purolater oil filter, STP air filter, Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF, Valvoline Durablend 80w90, Michelin Primacy MXV4. Also: More rust and parking lot scars than I care to think about. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: VA
Car: 1999, Legacy Outback, 2.5L, 5 Speed Manual
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The bolt looks to be fine I had the oil changed 3 months ago at jiffy lube for convenience (I drive a lot) the head is fine ratchet has no problems grabbing the bolt and there is very little rust on it. is it possible that jiffy lube simply over torqued it?
Would spraying something like wd40 on it help? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
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First, if this is your only transportation, leave it alone until you're sure you could borrow or rent a car for a coupla days in case you can't get the bolt back in.
Be aware that there are 3-4 ways to repair the drain plug opening if it is stripped after removing the plug - but you may be delayed a day or more in finding just the right solution. do you have a 1/2" drive breaker bar? If that won't do it, you may need a 'cheater pipe' or heat as suggested or an impact wrench. oh and, I'm ashamed to suggest this but, make sure you are attempting to turn it counter-clockwise. (lefty-loosey)
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Time Flies Like an Arrow, Fruit Flies Like a Banana! |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Car: '13 Outback 2.5i CVT Prem. & '07 Tundra 5.7 V8 Ltd.
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Quote:
Get them to pay your dealership to fix it, maybe |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
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Posts: 4,274
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Quote:
it's rare, but there have been one or 2 instances over the years...... sry
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Time Flies Like an Arrow, Fruit Flies Like a Banana! |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Spokane WA USA
Car: 2007 Outback XT Ltd
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I considered posting this as a new thread, but it fits perfectly here. Jiffy Lube torqued the drain plug with an impact gun. Ignore the fact that someone has beat on the oil pan with a hammer - the "stuff" around the hex plug is the crush washer which has squished out due to the SEVERE over torque.
![]() Discussion: .... What the **** Jiffy Lube? : Justrolledintotheshop Take a 16 inch or longer 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a SIX point socket (a 12 point can round off the bolt). Hold the socket in place square and snug, take up the slack slowly, and give the breaker bar a really quick CCW pull. Not a smooth pull - snap it. The bolt will pop free, I guarantee you. You are simulating an impact gun, sort of. If I am wrong, take the car back to the shop and let them deal with it. Then never return there. John Davies Spokane WA USA .
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