4EAT, AWD does not work, then 'bangs in' at 3000 rpm - Page 2 - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums

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Old 02-01-2013, 06:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Alright well its in my signature if you are interested.
The program has some additional capabilities that may be useful in diagnosing whats going on with the transfer solenoid.

What are you using for your scanner?
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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At temp light not flashing but pulled a code 93, rear vss.
I think that's good news
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Just looked in the service manual- you have to replace the entire harness, drop the driveshaft, drop the pan, pull all the connectors from inside the pan, drop the full exhaust to replace the VSS?

Can't imagine what that costs, since there are other sensors on the same harness.

I assume people just cut and splice the wire when they have a spare VSS from another trans, as I do.

It's not some messed-up impossible-to-splice wire, is it?
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Looking at my old trans, it's 2 wires plus a shield, easiest place to splice will be all the way at the top, assuming I can finagle enough room to cut (always room for that!) and solder.

I'm hoping there is space to access the sensor without dropping the exhaust.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Dave:

The FSM has a "troubleshooting tree" regarding code 93. The steps focus initially on checking continuity of the wiring, and the resistance measured between the two wires of the rear VSS. Have you made these checks? Might be worth doing before trying to splice a coaxial (shielded) cable. (In the FSM version I have, the section starts around page AT-124.)
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Oh, believe me I'm measuring and looking it all over before I start hacking things up, I just want to be prepared for the 'worst case scenario'.

I have located and measured the impedance on the connector pins on my old trans so I can get right to it Wednesday, when I'll have a chance to look at it.

I figure it's the sensor, the wires, or a pin got mangled in the connector (hard as that last one would seem to be to accomplish).

If I do splice it (best thing is to tease the pins out of both connectors and do no splicing, not sure this is realistic) I will do it all the way at the top, after the shield wire is terminated and it's back to just 2 exposed wires.
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