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Old 02-17-2013, 01:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default I Screwed The Pooch!!!

I seafoamed my newly acquired 1996 Outback 2.5L, through the brake booster line.

I had severe misfire, but no CEL.

I then saw where you need to use the pcv intake instead, so i did.

No change, sever misfire on acceleration, loss of power but still no CEL.

No knocks, no smoking exhaust (besides when it misfires, then i get smoke from exhaust), idles smooth....

What are the chances its just plugs???

I am gonna be in soooo much trouble if it isnt plugs, I sold the wifes Durango to get a ride with better fuel economy, and now I did this....

Out here in the sticks nobody carries good plugs for the Subaru's so I had to order some, they should be here mid next week. (was already planning a tune up)

So what are the chances?

Is there anything else I could look at which would cause this? (short of tearing down the motor or a compression/leak down test)
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You fed the Sea Foam in too heavy causing a flood out condition.

When you feed the Sea Foam in, slow feed is better and raise the engine rpm to 12-1500 until its done.

Just drive it around. It will clear out and stop misfiring.
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Old 02-17-2013, 02:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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when you first turn the key to ON, does the CEL actually work?

also, there can be pending codes so, might be worth scanning anyway.

do you know how old the plugs and plu wires are?

any more info on the car and the exact problem you have with it will be helpful.

probably beyond me, but others will reply I'm sure.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardoc View Post
You fed the Sea Foam in too heavy causing a flood out condition.

When you feed the Sea Foam in, slow feed is better and raise the engine rpm to 12-1500 until its done.

Just drive it around. It will clear out and stop misfiring.
I drove it a couple miles and it didnt clear up, let it idle for a while too, then just went for a 1 mile or so drive...the only change was when engine was cold there was very little misfire but as temp warmed up (which was quicker than usual but could just be because it was driven previously) it worsened.

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when you first turn the key to ON, does the CEL actually work?

also, there can be pending codes so, might be worth scanning anyway.

do you know how old the plugs and plu wires are?

any more info on the car and the exact problem you have with it will be helpful.

probably beyond me, but others will reply I'm sure.
I checked and i have several lights not working on my dash it seems..

Air Bag
Oil
CEL
AT Temp

I am hoping its just bulbs and not the stupid controller i have been reading about.

I had no real problem besides very minor piston slap on cold start, thogugh I did notice a smoking exhaust but attributed it to it being winter, I smelled no burnt oil, fuel or antifreeze smell from exhaust, but figured a cleaning of the intake and such couldnt hurt. I had read that carbon build up could be the cause of piston slap and it is/was so minor I didnt think it was an actual mechanical problem.

And it does seem the slap is gone or diminished by at least 50% which with the door closed and window up would make it inaudible.

So now my issue is sever misfire under load, but smooth at idle.

As for plugs and wires, I cant say since at this point i see no reason to trust the person i bought it from after seeing antifreeze on the engine.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ok I went and got the codes scanned....

Came up with 3 codes....

P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank I or Single Sensor)
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
P1101 Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input (A/T)
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ooh, ooh.

Grounds. Loose grounds. Dirty grounds. Check your grounds. Cable at the battery, block, firewall, fenders and intake. Check them all.

Let us know if you find any with corrosion, loose connection or loose wire. Corrosion in the wire under the insulation will cause resistance also.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ooh, ooh.

Grounds. Loose grounds. Dirty grounds. Check your grounds. Cable at the battery, block, firewall, fenders and intake. Check them all.

Let us know if you find any with corrosion, loose connection or loose wire. Corrosion in the wire under the insulation will cause resistance also.
Well after the code read I unbolted the knock sensor at the auto parts store to clean under it to see if it was corrosion. It was cracked in half and had rust under the plastic outer housing so i ordered a new one. The vehicle speed sensor is a different story, my driveway is full of snow and ice so getting under there at this time isnt safe, I ordered a new sensor and will have to take it to the local shop. I think the N/safety issue could be ground related, I have not researched it yet.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Have you fixed the lights on the dash issue? Since the CEL, AT temp, and Airbag lamps do not work I'm thinking that whoever sold you the vehicle knew there were issues and wanted to ensure no Lights would be on prior to sale (or after for that matter) I would also be concerned with the Oil Lamp its kind of important too. If your going to replace the plugs anyway I would do a compression check at the same time(write it down). Even if nothing is wrong there, it will give you a good baseline point for future reference. I keep a binder for each car I have with all the work I do, plus service information for anything I have modified, so its sort of a custom service and maintenace manual.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Have you fixed the lights on the dash issue? Since the CEL, AT temp, and Airbag lamps do not work I'm thinking that whoever sold you the vehicle knew there were issues and wanted to ensure no Lights would be on prior to sale (or after for that matter) I would also be concerned with the Oil Lamp its kind of important too. If your going to replace the plugs anyway I would do a compression check at the same time(write it down). Even if nothing is wrong there, it will give you a good baseline point for future reference. I keep a binder for each car I have with all the work I do, plus service information for anything I have modified, so its sort of a custom service and maintenace manual.
I have not been able to get to the light issue yet, I have been working on figuring out the driveability issue. I am thinking the same thing about the seller, if there are no bulbs in the sockets in the dash I will know for a fact that the seller was a crook, if they just burned out then its just my dumb luck. I need to find out what bulbs they are and if they are available locally, rather not have to tear into it just to put it back together and wait for delivery if they arent available local.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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STJ, Binder? Have you thought about transferring the data to a computer base using last names or plate/VIN numbers for a lookup?

only126db, Good thinking. Get it running right, bulbs later. On the bulbs, they are the mini BP series you can pick up at a parts store. 74 and 158 are most used.
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