Car Battery Upgrades?? - Page 2 - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 08:52 PM
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Thats what i wanted to do was rule everything else out first .

Thats and i forgot the name of the battery, not that i was stalling or anything



nipper
Of course, not trying to jump ahead...it just piques my curiosity once more. I agree that it would be a waste if not needed but I've had some premature alternator failure before, its a sinking feeling. It doesn't help that (it seems to me) the leads on many after-market lighting kits are a few gauges slimmer than they could be. You could always re-do the leads but I'm sure it can be a pain to mess with (and re-do) factory seals.

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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 09:00 PM
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I've had some premature alternator failure before, its a sinking feeling.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Dont they have a pill for that?

nipper
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 09:02 PM
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Dont they have a pill for that?

nipper
Hehehehehe,

yeah,

BOSCH

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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by EisBear


Of course, not trying to jump ahead...it just piques my curiosity once more. I agree that it would be a waste if not needed but I've had some premature alternator failure before, its a sinking feeling. It doesn't help that (it seems to me) the leads on many after-market lighting kits are a few gauges slimmer than they could be. You could always re-do the leads but I'm sure it can be a pain to mess with (and re-do) factory seals.
Iv'e had altenators die on me, last time it took three to get it right. There are a lot of bad alts out there being rebuilt, and alot of them are imprezza Alt's marked for outbacks (they do not interchange).

I finally bit the bullit and bought one from subaru (cheaper then aftermarket for Blu) and havent had a problem since.


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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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i wouldn't think its the factory wiring at the lights as they seem to start off bright enough, they just dim when more lights start drawing from the same power source. Next time i have a competent friend over i will try measuring the output at 1800 rpms. Yes, it is a 2008 model. There shouldn't be any problems with the wiring as we took our time on doing that. All connections were soldered and everything exposed was heat shrinked over.
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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 11:22 PM
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I think your problem is fairly obvious...

with all of the lights on at the same time you're drawing over 30 amps out of your alternator, not including all of the other electrical devices on the car, ie, the engine.

I don't know offhand what the output of your alternator is but I'm guessing that you're simply putting too much of a load on it.

Why are you running 200 watts/+- 16amps worth of driving lights at the same time as your fog lights? Seems contrary to what you need to be able to see and drive effectively.

John E.

P.S. almost forgot, to figure out how many amps you're using, divide total number of watts being used, ie, all your lights, stereo, dash lights, engine, etc. by voltage.
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-14-2008, 01:29 AM
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Your sooby has a 90-95 amp altenator, but thats at 1800+ RPM.

There are 2006 WRX high outputs available for 200 bucks that are 140 amps. I think yours may be too new to have anything like that available.

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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-14-2008, 02:13 AM
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Hey all. I am not an Outback owner, but my last car was a Legacy GT wagon, so don't hate on me too much

I am one of the people that helped jerami assemble this new lighting system. Most of the wiring he is talking about I had my hands on, so he thought I might be able shed some light (pun defiantly intended) on the situation. We are noobs when it comes to wiring like this, but we spent a good deal of time planning and testing before implementing.

Basically the new lights are running from the battery itself. The way it wired up now the lights can be independently switched on without the car even running. This was done to avoid tampering with any factory wiring harness and to be the most flexible.
There is no pulsing or flickering when any or all of the lights are activated and the dimness brings with light levels to what I would call 70-75% - not super low.

You can hear the RPMS raise and lower when lights are activated or deactivated. This goes for the headlights as well though, so no difference there.

The volts measured at the lights (when switched on of course) is ~12.3V. I have not tested the amps, because frankly, I don't know how lol. if someone could point us in the right direction that way, it might go a long way towards solving the issue. Right now, the light sets are grounded to the negative battery terminal itself.

My general thinking is that the battery just doesn't have the amps for this kind of task. Is that even correct thinking, electrically speaking?

Without getting even more specfic, which I think would require a diagram, I am pretty sure I have covered what I know. Thanks for all the input you all can give, it is definitely appreciated!
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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-14-2008, 02:16 AM
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Bed time will respond tomorrow.


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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 12-14-2008, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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to correct mr shomann on a point or two, the lights are no longer grounded to the battery, but the actual car itself now. If the car is off you obviously hear no change in anything, but if the engine is running you can hear the extra load being drawn as the lights dim.

To John E. The hella fog lights i speak of are not used as fog lights, they aren't even pointed in a forward direction. I have an individual lamp on both sides of my cargo basket and two rear facing from the basket to allow for lighting a complete perimeter around the car. So only the lightforce lights are aimed forward for extra lighting. And like i said, chances are i will never use all of them at the same time, however even just having the 2 sets of hellas running dims both sets and i can see being camping or on a narrow road in the woods and maybe needing to do a reverse multipoint turn around and needing light behind and beside to see my surroundings and not having them go dim would be good.

So i guess the question about a higher amp output battery was asked due to the fact that with the keys out of the car i can still run the lights i assumed that would mean that the alternator is not in the picture at that point.

If it is indeed an alternator issue what kind of output would i need assuming i could have one built to my spec?
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