2011 Outback Headlight bulb access? - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums

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Old 02-13-2011, 10:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2011 Outback Headlight bulb access?

How do I gain axccess to change the low beam bulbs on the 2011 Outback wagon??
If I remove the battery on driver side or remove air duct on pass side there is still not enough room to get to the bulbs. Do I need to remove the entire headlight assembly ror the wheel arch .
Can anyone give detailed instructions for the 2011 Model??
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I spoke with the dealer this morning and asked how to do this they offered to change both of the low beams for $ 25 (thats a no brainer) I will have it done when I take it in for the first service this Wednesday.
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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wheel well liner has to be removed to replace the bulbs. not a lot of room up there.
I just did my HID installation and boy that's a tight fit
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks thats what I thought..How do you like the HID Lights?? if I dont like results from the the Osram Rallye 65+ I will think about the HID kit.
Which kit did you go with I know there are several
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skee View Post
Thanks thats what I thought..How do you like the HID Lights?? if I dont like results from the the Osram Rallye 65+ I will think about the HID kit.
Which kit did you go with I know there are several
it's pretty slick. I went with the Phillips conversion. Costs more but I've had the cheaper conversions die on me
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok....I've replaced both low beam lamps on my 2011 outback....discovered a couple of tricks that helped in the process. Tip for either side: There is a "cap" on the back on the headlamp assembly that covers the low beam bulb. This cap will only align one way, so make a mark on the housing and the cap so you won't fight aligning the cap to the housing. There is a spring clip that holds the bulb in place. The clip hooks on a latch. To unlatch, push in (towards the bulb) and then down. Clip will hingle out of the way, allowing the bulb to be removed.
Driver Side access: You can see the cap from under the hood, but not enough clearance to work it from the top side. I had to remove the wheel and the fender liner. I worked it via the fender well, but was able to (somewhat) see from under the hood. I'm a big guy with big hands/sausage fingers, but was able to do without too much difficulty.
Passenger Side: Much easier.....did not have to remove the wheel and fenderwell liner. Instead I removed the air cleaner box to gain access.....only two bolts/nuts, less than 5 minutes. The most difficult part was putting the "cap" back on, but here's a trick that worked really well...... Drill a small hole in the tab closest the mark you make on the cap (described above). Tie about a 24" string to the cap thru the drilled hole. Fish the string thru the fender space and out the access hole by the air box. "Pull" the cap into position, align the marks, and tighten. This probably doesn't make a lot of sense, but it will when you raise the hood and check it out.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-27-2013, 10:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Default 2011 Outback driver side low beam replacement

Driver side low beam only:

Remove Dside wheel
Remove 3 push pin locks for plastic inner fender cover located:
  1. under bumper to fender where the meets.
  2. near edge of fender 11:00 position
  3. near inner middle of fender closest to engine 10:00 position
  4. use plastic pry tool or screwdriver to separate plastic inner fender from plastic bumper cover and fold back toward motor to provide access to lamp area.
  5. open hood to locate grey cap that covers lamp assembly and put a location mark on cap and housing so when you reassemble cap you know it is on correctly when marks align.
  6. reach up and in through the folded back inner fender, through the small opening in metal supports to get to grey plastic screw on cap on rear of headlight assembly.
  7. rotate cap left to unscrew and remove cap.
  8. Remove plug with wires from lamp.
  9. There is a metal wire bail that is used to lock the H7 lamp in the mounting socket. On the left side of bail is a small latch setup,push in toward bumper and down to release bail lock and rotate to the right out out of the way of the lamp and wiring.
  10. carefully take note of how this lamp is positioned in the mounting socket. it only mounts one way.There is a square tab on the lamp and a notch in the socket it mounts against. The notch in the socket is located at 7:00.
  11. Pull lamp out no twisting required, the bail holds it in that you released already.
  12. unpack new lamp(do not touch glass) skin oil will reduce life.
  13. position lamp in fingers with the square tab at 7:00
  14. snake lamp and arm through the same openings as before to reach rear of headlight assembly and position lamp in socket slightly turning left and right until you feel lamp slide in slightly into notch.This may take a few times but once in the correct position the lamp will not rotate anymore.
  15. carefully rotate locking bail to the left over rear of lamp to it's lock and push down then in to lock lamp in place.Do not bend bail excessively, it has tension normally but if your really bending it far the lamp is not seated in the notch correctly.
  16. Add some conductive grease to lamp terminals and replace wire plug
  17. turn on car lights check the pattern and intensity compared to the other working headlight. I use a white plastic cutting board so you can see the pattern right through it. I place it about 1 foot away and look through the cutting board.Anything should work.
  18. If the new one seems dim, pointed to side or the pattern is different from the other light the lamp may be installed crooked.
  19. replace grey cap by holding it in your hand with the large ear at 5:00. place on back of assembly push in while twisting slightly back and fourth until it seats in the housing then tighten by rotating ear to 6:00 position.
  20. check cap for proper fit by looking at the marks you made in the cap and housing. If they are aligned you are good to go.
  21. reassemble inner fender and tire.
  22. good luck and limit you swearing☺

Mully
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Thanks, Mully!!!

Mully - Extremely helpful instructions!!! I didn't have to remove the driver side wheel--just turned it all the way to the right, as suggested in the owner's manual. Otherwise, everything was spot on--no swearing.

Car Camper - registered just to thank you.
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Old 08-10-2013, 06:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No need to remove wheel at all. Just turn the steering wheel all the way AWAY from the side that you are working on. I never felt that the wheel was in the way.

On either side, the tab on the light bulb points at about 7:30.

I actually found it easier to work on at ground level than on the lift for some reason.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:11 AM   #10 (permalink)
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No wonder the Japanese lost the war.
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