2008 Outback - Windows stopped working Grr

[smccoll]

Before Windows stopped operating, a clicking noise could be heard every 15 sec from under/beside steering column. I have since replaced drivers switch panel. Discovered that clicking came from the "window breaker". I have removed to stop clicking. When I plugged it back in, the windows worked for about 15 minutes then stopped and breaker started clicking again. There is power going to reg motors but.... can't seem to chase the issue down. The relay seems to be working, as there are 3 of the same relays on the panel, I moved them around as a troubleshooting effort. Any suggestions?

[plain OM]

The breaker, assuming it's working probably, is clicking because there's a short, or at least an excessive current load, downstream. The window power wiring goes from the breaker to the power window relay, which is normally closed whenever the ignition key is at ON, and from there to the switches.

When the breaker is installed, does the clicking stop when the ignition key is turned to OFF? If it continues to click even with the key at OFF, then there's a short between the breaker and the relay. If it does stop, then it's likely the excess current load is after the relay. Knowing this might help narrow down the troubleshooting approach.

[Jonny123]

Did you happen to get any resolve?

I have the same issue with the window breaker clicking on and off. At times it will be fine and all windows and power seat work normally. At random times the breaker will start clicking, at that point the windows will not work and the power seats will not work. If I pull the fuse for the windows the windows will obviously not work and the power seat will work just fine? is this a common issue with a common fix? Seems like a short, but any idea where? All fuses and relays have been checked.

Any help would be appreciated

[Jonny123]

Sorry clicking does not occur when key is in the off position...

[number 41]

This may or may not help but...for info only.

Couple years ago my 2002 Jeep Liberty rear hatch's locking mechanism starting clicking while driving, lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Turned out I needed a new battery, which fixed the problem. The battery was on the way out and had reached a level where it had trouble maintaining all systems. Sounds wierd but it worked to replace it.

[plain OM]

Unfortunately, the original poster has not returned with an update.

If I pull the fuse for the windows the windows will obviously not work and the power seat will work just fine?

The power for both the windows and seats comes through the circuit breaker. From there, it splits in two -- once circuit goes to the power seats, and is supposed to be "always on" (as long as the breaker isn't open or snapping back and forth!). The other circuit goes to the power window relay. This relay's energizing coil is powered through the window fuse in the in-cabin fuse panel, so as you noted, if the fuse is out, the windows won't work -- the relay isn't energized. The power to the fuse comes from the ON position of the ignition switch.

Because of the circuit split, if there is a short in the seat circuit, the breaker will click all the time, that is, even when the ignition switch is OFF, the window fuse is taken out, or the relay is out. That's because the seat circuit is "always on".

If the breaker clicks only when the ignition switch is at ON, as seems to be the case, there's a short, or excess load, in the window circuit downstream of the relay.

The next thing might be to determine if the clicking of the breaker seems to start when a window is, or has just been raised or lowered. If so, then which window/door, and when using which control -- the one on the driver door, or on the door with the last-adjusted window? And if it's the driver's window that was moved, was the "auto up" or "auto down" used?

All of this might help determine if the problem is a defective switch rather than a shorted wire, the latter being less likely. (If a switch is staying on when it has been released, and the window motor isn't running, the load will act like a near short and cause the breaker to open. ---> clicking.)

Let's see where this takes us . . .

[Jonny123]

It was a worn wire in my rear passenger side door. From factory the wire was too long doubling back on itself near the wire "accordian" between the door and the body of the car. Hope this helps, but may be an isolated issue.

Thanks for the help...

[plain OM]

Jonny123:

Thanks for the update.

Was the worn part of the wire in the door, or in the body of the car? Perhaps more details (and perhaps photos) of what you found might better help others reading this thread in future.

Also, was this on a 2008?