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Old 03-11-2009, 06:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking How to Bleed Brakes

Hiya,
The question is simple I hope. I am look to replace brakes and disc's but also replace the brake fluid as this is over due, the only problem is I am not to sure how to bleed the brakes, is it completed in a sequence like do fronts first then backs or vice versa.

This is what I believe I need to do:
2 x people required no speed bleeders at present.
One sit in car with windows open while the other completes the task of opening the bleed nipples.
Person Two does the following:
Go to each calliper
release the bleed nipple, shout out to driver to press pedal as he/she does, this forces the brake fluid through bleed nipple to allow fluid out in to catchment container, once initial fluid is out tighten nipple then tell driver to release pedal, then repeat process until new fluid comes through then tighten bleed nipple (not overly just enough to seal) move on to next calliper.

Whilst carrying out this process keep an eye on Brake Reservoir level and making sure it doesn’t empty, top up when it gets low.

Is the above correct

Look forward to any advise

Cheers

Paul.
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I haven't done it on the OB, but you don't need two people. You could use a relatively cheap hand pump.

Something like this is probably available on your side of the pond:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38053

or just attach a piece of clear plastic (tygon) tubing to the nipple and have it drain down to a glass jar and pump the brake pedal while hanging your head out the door and looking under the car until the new stuff comes out.

A friend is cheaper, unless it's your spouse, that could be expensive.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: How to Bleed Brakes

Quote:
Originally posted by Snowball
Hiya,
The question is simple I hope. I am look to replace brakes and disc's but also replace the brake fluid as this is over due, the only problem is I am not to sure how to bleed the brakes, is it completed in a sequence like do fronts first then backs or vice versa.

This is what I believe I need to do:
2 x people required no speed bleeders at present.
One sit in car with windows open while the other completes the task of opening the bleed nipples.
Person Two does the following:
Go to each calliper
release the bleed nipple, shout out to driver to press pedal as he/she does, this forces the brake fluid through bleed nipple to allow fluid out in to catchment container, once initial fluid is out tighten nipple then tell driver to release pedal, then repeat process until new fluid comes through then tighten bleed nipple (not overly just enough to seal) move on to next calliper.

Whilst carrying out this process keep an eye on Brake Reservoir level and making sure it doesn’t empty, top up when it gets low.

Is the above correct

Look forward to any advise

Cheers

Paul.
That's how I've always done it. I always start at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, and finally left front. The theory being to start as far away from the master cylinder as possible and then work your way closer. (I don't know if the theory holds water, its just how my dad taught me how to do it.) One thing to be careful of is to not push the the brake pedal all the way to the floor if you have any mileage on the car. That will tear up the brake master cylinder seals by pushing them through any gunk and build up outside the normal range of travel. (if you do then in about 5,000 miles the master cylinder will go south and you will have to replace it and go through the bleeding process all over again, ask me how I know )
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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SUbaru recomends (and its typical with ABS) to start with the closest wheel first. Without ABS its the farthest wheel first. It is somepolace on endwrench.com and in the FSM.


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Old 03-12-2009, 01:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: How to Bleed Brakes

Quote:
This is what I believe I need to do:
2 x people required no speed bleeders at present.
For the last part, yes. You can gravity bleed the system for a while... clean and flush all of the old fluid from the reservior (using a brake fluid tool works great... it is a little like a small turkey baster with a very thin snout). Then open the bleeders and let them drip in som catch cans for a while, topping off the reservior as needed. When the color of the fluid coming out of each caliper is good, you can shut it off in prep for the next stage.
Quote:
One sit in car with windows open while the other completes the task of opening the bleed nipples.
Person Two does the following:
Go to each calliper
release the bleed nipple, shout out to driver to press pedal as he/she does, this forces the brake fluid through bleed nipple to allow fluid out in to catchment container
The person in the car should push slowly, and never go more than half way. The reason is that the master cylinder can develop pits at the far end and may damage the seal.
Quote:
Once initial fluid is out tighten nipple then tell driver to release pedal, then repeat process until new fluid comes through then tighten bleed nipple (not overly just enough to seal) move on to next calliper.
Just do this 3-4 times per caliper once you're done with the gravity bleed.

If air has got into the system at any point (replaced compenents, whatever), or you just want to be a little paranoid (no harm), then do the following:
Call out "pressure" to the person in the car. This is their signal to pump up the brake pedal until it gets firm, again being careful to not stab at the pedal and not go more than half way per stroke. Once they have a firm pedal they hold pressure on it. The person at the caliper can tell that this is done, although you can work out some kind of safety word for this part. In any case open the bleeder very slightly. Once you see no bubbles for a couple of tries, you're done.
Quote:
Whilst carrying out this process keep an eye on Brake Reservoir level and making sure it doesn’t empty, top up when it gets low.
Yes, this is very important. Once air gets into the system from the reservior it can be a bit tougher to get out.

When you're done the person in the car should be able to pump the pedal and get a good solid feel to it. If not then try starting the car and seeing if it feels good with the booster working.

That should do it.

BTW, I have some speedbleeders on my shelf that I never use, because the above procedure works very well.
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Old 03-12-2009, 09:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Guys,
Thanks for the infomation, this has come in handy, I will follow the advice given, I will take some pictures of what I'm doin so you peeps can have a good laugh at me when it all starts to go horribly wrong lol

Paul
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Old 03-12-2009, 10:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes a vacuum device on the brake bleeder is very effective, esp if you put some silicone grease on the bleeder threads to help keep it from sucking in air. This way you can do it yourself without having to open and close the bleeder 100 times.

My tips, during each bleed vacuum, press brake pedal slowly down, but only as far as normal (NOT all the way to the floor). I have noticed it will help pull out some rubbery crud by doing this.

Yes as someone noted do NOT let the resiouvor go dry at any time during this process as you may trap air in the ABS hydraulic unit then you may have a pain getting it out. Optionally you can put the ABS unit into sequence mode where it cycles all the pressure increase, hold, decrease etc valves during the bleeding to help flush out the fluid that is in it as well.
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