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OEM or aftermarket rotors?

13K views 9 replies 9 participants last post by  kingpinXT2005 
#1 ·
I know this comes up a lot in some form of a discussion on one topic or another, but searching around didn't turn up anything too specific so I wanted to ask. I've got about 37K on my '12 Outback 2.5i Limited and recent inspection said that my rear pads are about shot. I find it rather surprising and haven't had a chance to confirm it myself but as brake wear hardware isn't too bad, I figured I'll just change 'em out and be done with it.

I do a combo of highway and city driving, I'd say about a 40/60 split as my job is rather close. I had been using the CVT to engine brake on hills and such, and at times, even around town, as I just figured it was a better way to save on brakes. I'm now wondering if I did this to the point that enough torque was applied to the rear (I forget how the torque split works for the CVT/transfer case, especially during acceleration and braking) that I prematurely wore the pads down. Just seems odd to me that with such low mileage my rear pads are purportedly already worn to replacement.

I have noticed a definite brake pulsing and as such is why I bring up the topic of rotors. The OEM and aftermarket for rear rotors are pretty comparable from what I've found online so far, and some online Subaru dealer parts places tout the OEM parts as superior with some relatively sound logic from what small amount of research I've done so far.

Can anyone throw in their 2 cents on the late model Outbacks and brake hardware they've used or had experience with? On an unrelated note, I got myself a pinch weld "puck" for my floor lift so I'm all set to go to work swapping out the hardware with confidence that I won't jack up (no pun intended) the undercarriage by having a lack of places to jack on the unibody. Excited to try it out!
 
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#2 ·
2010-up outbacks eat the rear pads fast because rear brake parts are still made "small" for older usage patterns.

Now that the VDC system uses individual brakes for stability and traction control programs without overtly notifying the driver, rear pad usage is way up without you realizing it.

This also happens on a number of other cars with modern stability control.

Just something new to get used to.
 
#3 ·
You can have them turned as well.
Subaru are generally going to have a propensity to be better quality.
Aftermarkets work well though.

If you think you're going to be burning through rotors every 30,000 miles I'd just get aftermarket. Or keep your originals and turn them and have them ready for the next change.

If the 37,000 miles seems low (based on driving conditions, etc) you might want to consider having new pad clips on hand to and cleaning/regreasing the slides in case any of that stuff is the issue. Or you'll just find out when you get in there.

When you pull it apart it's going to tell you something - like if all 4 are evenly warn down or one out of the 4 or both inside ones...etc. Did they list which pad was low on the inspection?
 
#4 ·
If they are smooth leave em. If not turn em. Stock rotors are very beefy.

My 2010 with lots of towing trailer time and packed road trips. 60,000 fronts and rears were identical and a micro second from the squealer tabs. I tossed oem pads on left the rotors alone they were smooth. My prior Subaru had its original rotors on it at 180,000 miles they were pulled at 140,000 to check and were in spec and smooth. That car commuted San Francisco every day and towed boats on the weekends. 60k was my pad replacement point.
 
#5 ·
I switch from stock to Stoptech slotted and Hawk HPS pads front and rear. There is a huge weight different compared to stock which was surprising. They grab a lot more and the brake fade isn't bad. Before I had a drilled slotted and had the fronts cracked on over time. Drilled not so great but slotted works just fine with me.
 
#6 ·
pulsing is often just uneven pad deposition. Sometimes a light-medium 'bedding-in' procedure will help with that. If it gets WORSE, that can mean the temper of the metal has been altered in one area and turning will never fix that.

agreed subaru brake parts generally considered robust (Tokico? akebono pads?) - keep your OEM rotors if possible. Aftermarkets seem to be good, I'd stay away from any cheap 'loss-leader' stuff.

brembo, Centric, stoptech,etc. , probably others, make good stuff. When required, I plan to get Centric rotors. probably the upgraded Centric.

stoptech has some good reading at their site; -Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
 
#7 ·
I would like to re-enforce...Subaru disks are a very good quality. Pad material, not so much. The above mentioned manufactures are top quality. I would like to add EBC to that list. I have "sport" slotted rotors on all 4 corners and "green stuff' pads. I am very happy with their performance and wear vs. the stock.
 
#10 ·
Spasmonaut I would suggest this - don't be hard on the engine to save on brake wear. Cost wise - changing out some pads a little more often will save you from replacing a worn down transmission. Look at the above pads, research them and I think you'll find your answer. Subaru OEM pads aren't great. For my commute on i90...I tend to go through pads quicker than normal but thats the nature of the game. BUT having pads that will stop quickly because of bad drivers - that's a plus in my book.

Good luck!
 
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