Do both rotors and brake pads need to be replaced - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums

SubaruOutback.org is the premier Subaru Outback Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 4.00 average.
Old 01-11-2012, 10:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ontario
Car: 2008 Outback Limited PZEV
Posts: 3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default Do both rotors and brake pads need to be replaced

Dealer indicates pads on my 2008 Outback are below the '25% left' standard they use. Says they don't turn rotors anymore, cheaper to replace both rotor and pads. Seems over the top to me. Anyone have comments or recommendations?
Scotsman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-11-2012, 10:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
1 Lucky Texan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
Car: 03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Posts: 7,491
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

I agree on not turning rotors (generally) but, I don't think we have enough info as to whether they need replacing. rotors will last for several pad changes unless there's a 'problem'.
__________________
Time Flies Like an Arrow,
Fruit Flies Like a Banana!
1 Lucky Texan is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-11-2012, 11:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: WV
Car: OBW H6 VDC, H6 OB Sed, XT6's
Posts: 5,386
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default

Replace the pads and regrease the slides (properly checking and regreasing the slides will be far more important than the rotors).

If the brakes are not vibrating - you do not need rotors. Rotors last a very long time - 100,000 miles easily. they generally won't fail on a car this new unless something out of the ordinary happens or the pads are warn down to the rivets (which should never happen)

Rotors will look "warn" so it's easy to convince a customer that doesn't know any better to replace them - but in reality a brand new rotor looks like a used rotor in a month anyway, that's what rotors do. easy way to convince unfamiliar folks to replace rotors - "oh yeah i see the rust and markings on the surface"....well your new rotors they just milked you for will look just like that in a month - better stock up on rotors!

The brake pads have wear indicators on them and will make noise when they need changed - you probably have another year or so on on them.

anyway - let's hope they are and just say that replacing pads early is a fine practice. 25% is actually quite a lot of pad - if pads last 4 years that's 1 year of life still left.

brake jobs are REALLY freaking easy - once the wheel is off it only requires removing 2 bolts to replace brake pads. unbelievably easy.
__________________
H6 VDC OBW, H6 OB Sedan, XT6's, castrated LSi - FWD EJ18
grossgary is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-11-2012, 12:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Bassman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Twain Harte, CA
Car: 2011 Subaru Outback Premium 2.5i w/CVT
Posts: 337
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

First, check your rotors for any cracks (heat checking), grooving, or as previously mentioned, any sign of warpage (sometimes there will be areas which are slightly discolored where the rotor has gotten hot, but there is no contact with the pad). You will also, as mentioned, feel vibrations on brake application with warped rotors.

Second, inspect the pads. You can wait until you hear the wear indicators, but I'd suggest you don't. If you're on a long trip, need to have the brakes done, and can't do the work yourself, you are at the mercy of an unknown shop for the repairs. Also, you don't have a lot of miles between the first audible noise from the wear indicators before the pad backing plate(s) can start wearing against a rotor.

If everything looks good, replace the pads, but don't turn the rotors. Again, as previously mentioned, rotors with normal, even wear patterns can last 100K miles or more.

Use silicon grease on the caliper guide pins and check the rubber boots to ensure they are not cracked or torn. Also, be certain that the pistons are free to move in and out without any binding. Then, be sure when you install new pads, that you clean off the surfaces of the rotors with Brakeclean or alcohol. The same with the surfaces of the brake pads. Then, be certain to "seat" the pads against the rotors with several, low speed (under 30) HARD brake applications.
Bassman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-11-2012, 12:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: WV
Car: OBW H6 VDC, H6 OB Sed, XT6's
Posts: 5,386
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default

+1 to err on the side of caution - brake pads are rather cheap compared to rotors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassman View Post
Also, you don't have a lot of miles between the first audible noise from the wear indicators before the pad backing plate(s) can start wearing against a rotor.
in my experience it seems that Subaru's (though that's all i work on) generally have a long time interval between wear indicators making noise and causing damage to the rotors. but that could vary by type of pad, driving style/conditions, condition of pads/rotors (if the slides are out of grease and in contact with rotors they will wear faster), etc.

lots of variables so best to err on the side of caution if you don't have a compelling reason to wait.

i am often changing wheels (winter to summer tires) so not a big deal to me as i'll be able to check again shortly and no extra work.
__________________
H6 VDC OBW, H6 OB Sedan, XT6's, castrated LSi - FWD EJ18
grossgary is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2012, 04:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Timberwolf99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Car: 2000 Outback Limited, Dual Range 5 Speed
Posts: 461
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

no one mentioned minimum thickness, get some verniers and measure the thickness if close to original tgickness then you could take them off and get them machined before putting on the new pads. if close to minimum thickness you could probably judge if machining will take them to under size and replace.
__________________
Don't follow me i may be looking for a cache!
Timberwolf99 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-12-2012, 10:16 AM   #7 (permalink)
I :heart: SUBARU
 
porcupine73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Buffalo, NY USA
Car: '00OBW, '96&'94 Legacy
Posts: 4,753
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

I think Subaru switched dealers to using an on-car brake lathe only, to make sure the rotors were machined parallel to the hub basically. But those things aren't cheap and still you're eating away rotor material, so it's probably just about a wash to replace them vs. machine them.

If the brakes aren't pulsating you could probably get away with just a pad swap. Ideally brake pads should be the same as what was on there in this case, to avoid any incompatibility between material that may be embedded on the rotors, though most lightly driven passenger cars end up with abrasive friction only. Ideally would be nice to clean up the guide/lock pins too just with our kind of nasty winters.
porcupine73 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-11-2012, 10:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Michigan
Car: 1996 Outback MTX & 2001 Outback VDC H-6 ATX
Posts: 28
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

A quick note: I have also experienced that rotors can warp/distort due to uneven or excessive torque on the wheel lug nuts. The major culprit is often impact wrenches at the garage, or people not tightening the lugs gradually and in sequence (like a star pattern).
bblooz is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-11-2012, 10:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
Registered User
 
jp1203's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: New England
Car: 2011 Tacoma TRD Sport Double Cab Long Box
Posts: 2,850
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotsman View Post
Dealer indicates pads on my 2008 Outback are below the '25% left' standard they use. Says they don't turn rotors anymore, cheaper to replace both rotor and pads. Seems over the top to me. Anyone have comments or recommendations?
Got any mechanically-savvy friends that would spend an hour or two changing your pads and/or rotors? You have disc brakes all around, and working on them is very, very easy. You could probably do both pads and rotors on all four corners in a couple of hours even if it's your first time.

I agree with not turning rotors...they're not all that expensive, so it makes sense to just replace them IMO.
__________________
RIP Outback: 2008 3.0R LL Bean "Senior Citizen Gold" 99,150 miles

Current Vehicle:
2011 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab Long Bed TRD Sport 4x4
jp1203 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Spokane WA USA
Car: 2007 Outback XT Ltd
Posts: 845
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default

I've done lots of brake jobs over the last 35 years, and the only ones that made me unhappy were the ones where i didn't replace the rotors.

If you are really strapped for cash, leave them, as long as they have some life left. Otherwise buy new Napa Ultra Premium rotors and OEM pads, and be happy.

http://www.napabrakes.com/wps/portal...Ultra_Premium/

John Davies
Spokane WA
__________________
http://www.spokanister.net
John E Davies is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:03 PM.



Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2
Copyright 2009-2010 SubaruOutback.org. All Rights Reserved.