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Old 11-30-2012, 11:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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cool! second mention i've seen of those rear caliper bracket bolts being annoying, I haven't had to touch one yet.

wanna ship your old rotors to me! LOL
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I recently did mine as well. I did the driver's side with a hammer. Then I went to Homedepot and bought appropriate 8mm bolts... much easier and a lot less rust on my garage floor.

But I am now getting a rather loud grinding noise when I am at 20% brake pedal pressure (enough braking force to gradually slow down). The noise completely goes away with more brake pedal pressure. I thought it was a rock. So I took the caliper off, cleaned the rotor/pad and reinstalled, but noise is still there. Did I not bed the pads/rotors hard enough? I have about 400 miles on the new pads/rotors.
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:47 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Good for you, you did the work, that is the nicest feeling! I got to thinking that, in a pinch, a 12 Gauge Shotgun with 3" Magnum Rifled-Slugs should remove the rotors in a hurry. I'm not sure they'll be worth much, but at least you can quickly remove them!
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eteled View Post
I recently did mine as well. I did the driver's side with a hammer. Then I went to Homedepot and bought appropriate 8mm bolts... much easier and a lot less rust on my garage floor.

But I am now getting a rather loud grinding noise when I am at 20% brake pedal pressure (enough braking force to gradually slow down). The noise completely goes away with more brake pedal pressure. I thought it was a rock. So I took the caliper off, cleaned the rotor/pad and reinstalled, but noise is still there. Did I not bed the pads/rotors hard enough? I have about 400 miles on the new pads/rotors.
Where did you buy the parts? Some cheap pads don't fit proper and the friction material will overlap the rotor edge causing noise. Also, loose, misaligned or missing hardware will allow noise. Cheap rotors will make noise as they are not manufactured to spec for heat dissipation/wear.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:04 AM   #15 (permalink)
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cool! second mention i've seen of those rear caliper bracket bolts being annoying, I haven't had to touch one yet.

wanna ship your old rotors to me! LOL
Because no one around my area cuts rotors I put the old ones with the garbage. They wouldn t take them, so I droppped them off at my local parts store. I couldn t get rid of them. I wish someone was close that could have used them. Being in the salt belt I can not stress enough that the 8MM bolts are the way to go!! Thanks to all.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:22 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Just a comment on the rear parking brake (mini drum within the hat of the rear disk). If you have previously adjusted the shoes to be pretty close to the drum, AND if a rust ridge builds up at the outer edge (common occurrence in an area with a lot of road salt), you may have to back off the shoes before pulling the rotors off. If you don't and the ridge catches the shoes, you will damage the retaining hardware and be in for another hour or two of basic rebuilding. I went thru this on a Camry with a similar rear setup many years back, and learned the importance of this step when servicing my OBW.
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Old 12-07-2012, 03:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Where did you buy the parts? Some cheap pads don't fit proper and the friction material will overlap the rotor edge causing noise. Also, loose, misaligned or missing hardware will allow noise. Cheap rotors will make noise as they are not manufactured to spec for heat dissipation/wear.
I only changed the front pads and rotors. Rears were done at a Les Schwab 10k miles ago. The brakes bite very well when more than 20% pressure is applied.

I bought pads/rotors from rockauto
pads: MONROE Part # CX929
More Information for MONROE CX929
rotors: RAYBESTOS Part# 980141R
More Information for RAYBESTOS 980141R
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