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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Speculator, NY (USA)
Car: 08 Outback 2.5I
Posts: 60
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Doing my 2008 Outback pads/rotors. I see that they are sometimes hard to remove rotors. I know there are lots of guys here who know the steps and tricks to remove stuborn rotors. Are the caliper bracket bolt tough too?
Is a 8MM bolt the standard for the center screws that help force rotors off? I ve done many brakes jobs on other cars and never had trouble with the rotors just coming off. Subaru s must be different. Someone once posted a bolt and nut method that I can t find either. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
Car: 03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Posts: 4,274
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do '08s still have the ebrake inside the 'hat' on the rear rotors? if so,you will need to back-off the e-brake adjusters in the rear to prevent any hang-up from the ebrake shoes I think. Of course, make sure the ebrake isn't set when doing those too.
you might check out a coupla videos; subaru rotor - YouTube
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Time Flies Like an Arrow, Fruit Flies Like a Banana! |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lyons, CO
Car: 2005 XT Limited
Posts: 614
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Yes 2 8mm bolts gets it off easy, or did for me. Unless you drove with the ebrake on, there shouldn't be any need to back it off since the shoes shouldn't wear a groove if the drum/rotor isn't turning (unlike the old drum style rear brakes which were both ebrake and rear brake).
Tom |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: WV
Car: OBW H6 VDC, H6 OB Sed, XT6's
Posts: 2,417
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bolts through the holes is the most consistent way. have two bolts handy - if they're really hard to get off the first bolt will be ruined - the intiial threads and it won't fit a second time. or have 4 bolts handy for both sides.
coat the back side of new rotor and the hub mating surface with anti seize to prevent future issues.
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H6 VDC OBW, H6 OB Sedan, 99 SUS, XT6's |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Green Mountains
Car: '05 2.5i H4 4-Speed Auto w/Sportshift
Posts: 511
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Some penetrating oil around at the hub and then driving out the rotor using the two threaded screw holes, evenly, going back and forth until the thing falls off.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Austin
Car: 2001 VDC, 2000 Outback 5MT (on the cheap)
Posts: 3,078
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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One ball peen, one dead blow. Ball peen on the hat and smack it with the dead blow. The vibration breaks loose the rust and it will "pop" off. You may have to hit it a few times.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Speculator, NY (USA)
Car: 08 Outback 2.5I
Posts: 60
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Got everything done today. 4 brakes and rotors. Took a few hours and rotors came off with the use of the two 8MM screws. Was able to use the same two screws for all four rotors. The hardest part was the rear cailper bracket as you need just the right setup of tools to get into the resessed nuts and they where tight. Did not have to touch the e brake. Other than that I beded them and they are smooth and really bite when applied I went with Raybestos premium brakes and rotor. Thanks for the tips.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
Car: 03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Posts: 4,274
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I feel good getting that kinda project done myself.
good job.
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