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Old 01-31-2013, 10:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rim Stuck to rotors

Ok so I just did both front and rear struts on my 07 OB (used 04 rear struts) and it now rides way better. However I had to take a 2x4 and sledge hammer to two of my wheel to get them lose from the rotor. I there anything I can do to stop this from happening? Had I been on the side of the road I would have been screwed.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I've had this happen before. It's from the freezing temps. I had to literally kick the tire as hard as I could to get it off.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I think it has more to do with rust buildup causing the hub of the wheel to seize onto the hub of the rotor. I would take a wire brush and cleanup the rust on the mating surfaces as well as around the lugs/holes. It may not be a bad idea to spray a little bit of WD40 just on the mating surfaces to try to eliminate or prevent rust buildup in the future, however, DO NOT get WD40 on the threads of the lugs or on the lug nuts. This will cause you to overtighten and overtorque the lugnuts significantly when you remount the wheel, potentially causing problems such as stripping the lugs, breaking the lug nuts, and in a worse case scenario, a wheel-off causing loss of control of the vehicle.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:55 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pjk79 View Post
I there anything I can do to stop this from happening? Had I been on the side of the road I would have been screwed.
If you are on the road with a flat tire where the rim is stuck to the rotor, take the spare tire and bounce it against the side of the tire you are trying to get off. It works wonders--just like a sledge + 2"x4".

I used this trick when switching to my snow rims/tires this past season since all four wheels were stuck on quite well from a longer rotation interval.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by statueim View Post
If you are on the road with a flat tire where the rim is stuck to the rotor, take the spare tire and bounce it against the side of the tire you are trying to get off. It works wonders--just like a sledge + 2"x4".

I used this trick when switching to my snow rims/tires this past season since all four wheels were stuck on quite well from a longer rotation interval.
You can also put the lug nuts on just snug, still a little loose and rock the car back and forth. It should break the wheels free.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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unfortunately it's fairly common. breaking the rust free (wire brush or something) and covering the surface in antiseize will help it from coming back too.

nice suggestions guys!
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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unfortunately it's fairly common. breaking the rust free (wire brush or something) and covering the surface in antiseize will help it from coming back too.

nice suggestions guys!
I agree that anti-seize is the answer. WD 40 is NOT.

Tire techs hate anti-seize because it gets all over their gloves and the tire balance machines. Screw them.

Use the silver stuff (aluminum blend), add a light layer to the entire steel mating surface of the rotor, then take a paper towel and wipe off the excess so that there is just a fine even film. You definitely don't want a lot of compound that will just sling out and make a mess of the surrounding parts.

Renew the film every rotation to cover bare spots - you can usually just wipe what remains around with a towel. You can also coat the hub nut and surrounding area and it will prevent further rusting. When done to a brand new car, those nuts will stay virgin for many years.

Do this and you will NEVER have rusted hubs, rotors or stuck wheels. I've been using this technique for 30+ years with never a problem except for a few dirty looks from the tire store guys.....

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Old 01-31-2013, 01:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by John E Davies View Post
I agree that anti-seize is the answer. WD 40 is NOT.

Tire techs hate anti-seize because it gets all over their gloves and the tire balance machines. Screw them.

Use the silver stuff (aluminum blend), add a light layer to the entire steel mating surface of the rotor, then take a paper towel and wipe off the excess so that there is just a fine even film. You definitely don't want a lot of compound that will just sling out and make a mess of the surrounding parts.

Renew the film every rotation to cover bare spots - you can usually just wipe what remains around with a towel. You can also coat the hub nut and surrounding area and it will prevent further rusting. When done to a brand new car, those nuts will stay virgin for many years.

Do this and you will NEVER have rusted hubs, rotors or stuck wheels. I've been using this technique for 30+ years with never a problem except for a few dirty looks from the tire store guys.....

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
Anti-seize will work, but WD40 will work very well also. WD40 by design repels water to prevent rust buildup, as well as helps dissolve rust. If you want a simple, cheap solution, it will work just fine.

I should also add it is not necessarily a good idea to get anti-seize on the lug studs either. Again, you are lubricating the threads and therefore risk overtightening the lugs significantly. Overtightening causes the studs to stretch and weaken, leading to the potential of snapped lug studs, and worse case scenario, the possible wheel-off situation and loss of control of the vehicle.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by statueim View Post
If you are on the road with a flat tire where the rim is stuck to the rotor, take the spare tire and bounce it against the side of the tire you are trying to get off. It works wonders--just like a sledge + 2"x4".

I used this trick when switching to my snow rims/tires this past season since all four wheels were stuck on quite well from a longer rotation interval.

+1 for that. That is my favorite trick, been using it for years.The spare tire as a tool is great, its heavy, can't damage the rim or tire, and always in your car. I find that it works great to jack the wheel I need to take off, lay down behind or in front of the car and put tire under car,then pick up tire slightly and slam it into the back of the seized wheel. Usually knocks it right off in 1-3 swings.

I also have used the anti-seize on the hub trick to great results over the years. I am always careful to leave a bit of space around the lugs as I believe that a bit of metal to metal contact helps the wheel sung down and stay on.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I find that it works great to jack the wheel I need to take off, lay down behind or in front of the car and put tire under car,then pick up tire slightly and slam it into the back of the seized wheel. Usually knocks it right off in 1-3 swings.
I find your description troublesome, so I hope I am misunderstanding. You are recommending to jack the car up on the included jack and then lay down underneath it while bashing on the wheel you wish you remove?

I would not recommend this method as it is dangerous and could leave you dead instead of with just a flat tire if you destabilize the car and it falls on you. What I do is:
1. Jack the car up near the tire you wish to remove.
2. Remove all bolts except one (leave that last bolt on there just enough to keep the wheel from flying off when it becomes unstuck).
3. Standing in front of the stuck wheel, stand the tire up vertically where it would roll straight into the wheel you wish to remove.
4. Pick up the spare tire and swing it to hit (tire against tire) the left and/or right sides of the tire (one side per swing) attached to the rim you wish to remove.
5. Change to spare as usual.

Obviously, swing too hard and your car might take a tumble. But if you're stranded, you might save a sore toe/heel from kicking and kicking comes with the same risk.
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