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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Shawnee,KS
Car: 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited
Posts: 3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Just purchased a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited 2.5 DOHC 5spd manual. It has 200kmiles and is rough around the edges but body and interior are complete and sound. I am in need of some help. Original head gaskets in place and I believe original timing belt.
Ok so I'm thinking of just going with a short block from SSI and having my heads ported by.... Still looking on that. So funds are the trouble like most hobbies. Fortunatly this isn't my daily driver. Any thoughts from you experienced hands on cats out thre would be appreciated. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: PA
Car: 2006 Outback XT Limited
Posts: 2,400
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Head gaskets and timing belt will usually cost less than a rebuilt. Maybe half as much, depending on who does the work. Maybe do a compression & oil pressure test to gauge the health of your current block before tossing that coin.
__________________
Wilwood Superlite front calipers DBA slotted Legacy GT front rotors w/Carbotech 1541 front pads; Hawk HPS rear pads and SS hoses all around Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace KYB GR-2 struts (2000-2004 version on rear) Rallitek sway bars F&R + AVO rear sway bar reinforcement brackets JDM divorced stereo/HVAC controller, JVC DD stereo No, I didn't rebuild my car overnight. Just testing a pimped out sig for a week or so... |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Shawnee,KS
Car: 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited
Posts: 3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Ahh that would be sensible. I was focused on the 200,000# and not actual engine diagnostics..Thanks will check as soon as I can get my paws on a compression tester gauge and will post here! Most of my money will be in parts and not labor so this will also be a substantial difference!
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: PA
Car: 2006 Outback XT Limited
Posts: 2,400
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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If it holds good oil pressure at idle after being warmed up, then the bottom end is probably still in good shape. Also give a listen for piston slap- not a show stopper but a good wear indicator. If the compression is even on all cylinders then that's better still. At 200k there is certainly room for problems in both areas, but if the thing has always had oil in it and never overheated, you can keep going on that block for years.
Oil pressure test is a bit of a drag as it requires removing the alternator during testing, but well worth it in this case. |
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