97 Outback R&R Head Gasket - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums

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Old 12-18-2009, 03:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 97 Outback R&R Head Gasket

Hi, guys! New to the "boxer" thing and want to learn more. I have a 1997 Subaru AWD Outback 2.5 DOHC auto and needs the head gaskets replaced. I've been in the repair line of work over 30 years on U.S. cars and new to Japanise cars. I plan to do the repair and would like some input as per if this is a good idea. From what I've seen, it looks like pulling the engine would be the best route. Looks like the cams need to be removed to get to the head bolts. I would be interested if anyone offers a detailed instuctions of the R&R of the engine and the R&R of the head gaskets, your input would be appreciated, AL.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Just pretend you are doing a really small V-8 engine that is spread far apart.

It can be done in the car, but easier out of the car. You can reuse the head bolts. Use ONLY subaru head gaskets and SUbaru valve cover and spark plug bucket seals.

If the engine is out replace the rear seperator plate if it is plastic. Replace main crank seal and reseal the oil pump.

Timing belt, idlers, tensioner, and waterpump should be replaced if they are unknowns.

Heads should be machined and rebuilt (since it is a 1997)



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Old 12-19-2009, 07:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Subaru Head Gasket Replace

I have a Haines book on the Outback that isn't bad but would like to find more information in order. The Haines book has information in all different sections. I thought I saw somewhere someone offering a instuction sheet specifically to this repair, for the R&R of the engine and the R&R of the head gaskets. Keep in mind I've never did the "boxer" thing, AL.
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Old 12-19-2009, 10:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Pretty straight forward job. Easier to pull engine than to try the job with it in the chassis. When putting the engine back in watch the "tube" that goes from the torque converter to the trans, it's kind of a tricky little item that gets no attention in the Haynes manual. The manual also says to use gasket sealer on the gaskets. This is for the old style gaskets, do not use any kind of sealer on the gasket or the block/ head surface. When I did mine a year ago the cost was around 800 for parts. OEM gaskets from Subaru and a timing belt kit with all idlers and tensioner from ebay. The kit was 200 shipped. The idlers alone from Subaru are about 60 bucks each. Do the water pump while you are there too, cheap insurance.
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Old 12-19-2009, 10:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by wurkenman
Pretty straight forward job. Easier to pull engine than to try the job with it in the chassis. When putting the engine back in watch the "tube" that goes from the torque converter to the trans, it's kind of a tricky little item that gets no attention in the Haynes manual. The manual also says to use gasket sealer on the gaskets. This is for the old style gaskets, do not use any kind of sealer on the gasket or the block/ head surface. When I did mine a year ago the cost was around 800 for parts. OEM gaskets from Subaru and a timing belt kit with all idlers and tensioner from ebay. The kit was 200 shipped. The idlers alone from Subaru are about 60 bucks each. Do the water pump while you are there too, cheap insurance.
wurkenman, thanks for your reply! I did see the tube you noted and looked as if it would be in the way, so would it be advisable to remove it? AL.
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Old 12-19-2009, 01:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There is a spring keeper on the ID of the tube. It needs to be "locked" on the torque converter and slowly rotate engine to seat it into the trans before you try to bolt engine and bell housing together. I put mine on and inserted the tube and engine as one. The first time I tried I had the engine in the bay and was trying to get the tube on the converter and snap it into position. Well the plan did not work so I had to pull the engine again and fish out the tube. Just be careful while installing engine with tube installed. Not a lot of room in there.
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Old 12-19-2009, 02:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by wurkenman
There is a spring keeper on the ID of the tube. It needs to be "locked" on the torque converter and slowly rotate engine to seat it into the trans before you try to bolt engine and bell housing together. I put mine on and inserted the tube and engine as one. The first time I tried I had the engine in the bay and was trying to get the tube on the converter and snap it into position. Well the plan did not work so I had to pull the engine again and fish out the tube. Just be careful while installing engine with tube installed. Not a lot of room in there.
What is this tube? Does Subaru recomend this be removed? Will this engine come out with it hooked up? What do the two ends connect to? AL.
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Old 12-19-2009, 02:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Subaru Head Gasket Replace

Wurkenman, a bit confused on your last post. I read this then read the other links. Are you in reference to converter to the transmission front pump assembly. What are you saying, the engine crank shaft hangs up on the converter centering shaft?
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No it does not hang up, but with the engine dropped in the engine compartment, the tube will slide back down into position and it is very difficult to get both hands in there to lock it in place. It will come out with the engine. at least it should. Mine came loose when removing engine and at first I tried to install the engine with this tube still in the car. Once you have it out it will become a lot more clear. I was just saying that this one step in the process is not covered or even mentioned in the Haynes manual.
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Suburu Head Gasket Replace

Quote:
Originally posted by wurkenman
No it does not hang up, but with the engine dropped in the engine compartment, the tube will slide back down into position and it is very difficult to get both hands in there to lock it in place. It will come out with the engine. at least it should. Mine came loose when removing engine and at first I tried to install the engine with this tube still in the car. Once you have it out it will become a lot more clear. I was just saying that this one step in the process is not covered or even mentioned in the Haynes manual.
PM sent, AL.
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