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Old 02-04-2013, 06:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question 2000 man. outback, 230,000mi wanting 2go2 full synthetic

I think I'm burning some oil every 1,500mi, about a quart(?).. may be the lube shop used JUST enough, idk..

I was thinking if a full synthetic might help my high mileage baby..

I like Royal Purple, I used it on my old turbo II.

Is there anything I should do before I make the switch? I have already put a blend..

Would I need a specific filter other than regular? Should I go a higher weight? How heavy?

Thanks in advanced.

PS: I drive 1/2 city 1/2 highway.. about 2-300mi a month...
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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change the PCV valve and clean it's hose.

no special filter - but I wouldn't run the cheapest I could find, oem, purolator Pure One, wix

expect the first one or 2 drains to look very dark, subsequent drains may look a little darker than conventional oil. Synthetic holds 'varnish' better than conventional.

qt in 1500 is not horrible. Don't extend drain intervals as blowby may be thinning your oil with fuel.

I probably wouldn't swap to synthetic at this point but, your choice.

others may have different advice for you - oil discussions are like that lol!
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I wouldn't switch to an expensive syn oil in an oil burner. It'll just be like burning money.

Where is it burning from?

+1 on the check/change PCV
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I haven't seen any leaks.. and my car doesn't smoke... tbh i rrally dont know if it is leaking, i will check this weekend, as i havent driven too far since the last time i put a quart in..

I figure, I change the oil at every 3mo or 3,000mi mark, so... --I don't exactly know what expensive is, I've always just stuck to Roya Purple, lol... never looked at any others, but I will this time around, seeing as how I'm just in a lil 4 banger... I'm just concerned for the high mileage..

I will do those things you said...err, what I coul understand, idk if its me, but it sounded like you were speaking another language. Hahaha

Thanks, ya'll.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Expensive syn is a waste at 3k/3 month. You should be able to double, if not triple that.

Regular oil Pennzoil conventional is usually good for 6-7k miles in these engines in most circumstances, just for reference.

A Used Oil Analysis can help you find out what the oil can do. Google that if it is not something you have encountered.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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awdftw's idea of a UOA (used oil analysis) might tell you if you're getting fuel in the oil so, if not, you could go with a longer drain interval. (assuming metals and silicon etc. are also good)

If the PCV valve has never been cleaned or changed, start with that and monitor the next 1 or 2 intervals for oil usage. If no changem then you might consider some treatment like marvel mystery Oil or SeaFoam to try to clean up possibly gummy oil control rings on the pistons. Compression/leakdown test might be good if still no improvement.

Until some of the above is tried, it's all guesswork as to why the oil is being lost, and then , there are decisions as to the best approach if it's unavoidable.
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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everything you need to know about your oil changes is in the owners manual or Subaru Research Site- specs, prices, options, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009.. Outback, Legacy, Forester, WRX, STI, Impreza, Tribeca, BRZ, XV Crosstrek.

straight to the point - it's pointless to switch to synthetic in this case so it doesn't matter what you do. use whatever synthetic you want in the weights indicated in your owners manual. it is throwing money away, but if you don't care then it doesn't matter.

synthetic isn't going to buy you anything, you'll get the same longevity with conventional. on Turbo engines due to heat it is risky to *not* use synthetic and it's required on modern Subaru turbo engines.

borrowing the rules and requirements for one engine and applying them to another does not gain you anything. the problematic heat generating turbo, oil supply/return lines, screens, and such aren't present on your current engine. so the reasons that synthetics shine don't apply.

unless you want a UOA and longer intervals...
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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rather than a synthetic, look into one of the "high mileage" oils on the market.

and the pcv thing.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Light gesture,

There shouldn't be a problem switching to Royal Purple, provided the engine has been properly maintained. I sent you a PM describing my recommended change over procedure...

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Old 02-17-2013, 05:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Blackstone Laboratories

Blackstone Lab is one of the many oil analysis place where you can request for a free kit. The test cost $25. I think if you have over 200k on the motor and you didnot see any oil on the ground and your engine is dry on the outside but it is burning oil, the $25 oil analysis is the best insurance you can give to your car. This will give you a peace of mind on what is going on in your engine.

Here's the link to their site: Blackstone Labs

Synthetics help in somewhat, IMHO, for high mileage cars, especially cleaning out the old slush and residue left by old oil. My dad used to have a MB 240D diesel which has close to 350k on the engine. It was burning oil and all he does is topping it up and never change the oil. I took the car over when he decided to get a newer vehicle and switch to synthetic. The first three or so oil change I have to top it up quite often but after awhile, the oil burning starting to get less and less. It didnot go away but it did slow down the burning process though. I got to the point that I only top it evey 1500 miles. I extended the oil change to 4 times a year after awhile. Sold the car a few years ago with over 400k on the engine
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