This applies to my 2007 Outback XT Ltd. I can't say if all Gen 3 cars are the same. Here is a shot of a brand new AT/S inflated to 34 psi BEFORE installing in the well:
The wheels are Sport Edition F7 16x7 from Tire Rack. I wanted to see if I could wedge one into the spare tire well fully inflated, so that I wouldn't have to carry an air pump routinely. It's well known that a flat OEM tire will fit into the well, but it won't go in when fully aired up. If the AT/S could be made to fit, then I could order a fifth wheel and tire and rotate them to keep the tread wear matched.
They are very similar to the OEM RE92A tires except in diameter (0.1 inch larger) and profile, and they weigh two pounds more:
Here's a glamor shot:
The problem in the well is that at four locations (12,3,6, and 9 o'clock), the tire tread contacts the steel tub. The solution is to attack the tight spots with a large hammer. I used a 1.5 pound dead blow (shot filled) plastic mallet. A bigger one would have made it easier. I not not recommend using a steel sledge hammer, or you will probably wreck the paint. Here's the tub:
It's a simple procedure - just whack away at the steel and check the fit to see where you need to do more work. The 12 o'clock area is tough - the row of spot welds shows where the tub is attached to a massive bracket that can be seen from under the car. You can get a little movement, but it isn't much. The other three spots are softer and _much_ easier to re-shape.
At the 6 o'clock position, the existing "dimple" needs to be opened up. It takes extra effort along the welded bottom edge, where the sealant is. I cracked the sealant in a couple of places and had to add some silicone sealer to keep water out:
Even after a bunch of hammering, the tire won't quite lay flat. It still hits a little at 12o'clock. I'm sure as the tread wears it will drop down all the way.
The reason I went with the 215/65R16 size rather that the 235/60R16 is that I felt the minimal difference in overall diameter and width of the 215 compared to the OEM tire would allow me to carry it in the spare tire well. It works! But I am fairly sure you wouldn't get the much fatter 235 tire in there, even though the OD is the same as the 215/65..
The car drives beautifully with these tires - the ride is much cushier, but folks who are looking for razor sharp handling will be disappointed. They are a little louder that the worn RE92As on the typical poorly-surfaced Spokane streets, but it isn't objectionable. I haven't had the car off pavement yet, but i am sure it will be a VAST improvement.
I am going to buy a set of Michelin X-Ice II tires for winter. I'll mount them on my OEM 17 inch wheels. I bet the A/T-S tires are adequate in fresh snow, but I also bet they slip like crazy on ice.
My speedometer error has dropped from a constant +4 mph to +2.5 mph. When I install the winter tires, which are 27.2 inches OD, the speedometer should be dead accurate.
Oh yeah, I decided against installing TPMS sensors due to the cost and also the risk of snapping one off on a rock. I went with regular rubber stems with chrome covers and chrome hex caps. They look very nice. I added a round spot of black electrical tape to the dash cover to hide the !@#$ blinky TPMS warning light.
John Davies
Spokane WA
The wheels are Sport Edition F7 16x7 from Tire Rack. I wanted to see if I could wedge one into the spare tire well fully inflated, so that I wouldn't have to carry an air pump routinely. It's well known that a flat OEM tire will fit into the well, but it won't go in when fully aired up. If the AT/S could be made to fit, then I could order a fifth wheel and tire and rotate them to keep the tread wear matched.
They are very similar to the OEM RE92A tires except in diameter (0.1 inch larger) and profile, and they weigh two pounds more:
Here's a glamor shot:
The problem in the well is that at four locations (12,3,6, and 9 o'clock), the tire tread contacts the steel tub. The solution is to attack the tight spots with a large hammer. I used a 1.5 pound dead blow (shot filled) plastic mallet. A bigger one would have made it easier. I not not recommend using a steel sledge hammer, or you will probably wreck the paint. Here's the tub:
It's a simple procedure - just whack away at the steel and check the fit to see where you need to do more work. The 12 o'clock area is tough - the row of spot welds shows where the tub is attached to a massive bracket that can be seen from under the car. You can get a little movement, but it isn't much. The other three spots are softer and _much_ easier to re-shape.
At the 6 o'clock position, the existing "dimple" needs to be opened up. It takes extra effort along the welded bottom edge, where the sealant is. I cracked the sealant in a couple of places and had to add some silicone sealer to keep water out:
Even after a bunch of hammering, the tire won't quite lay flat. It still hits a little at 12o'clock. I'm sure as the tread wears it will drop down all the way.
The reason I went with the 215/65R16 size rather that the 235/60R16 is that I felt the minimal difference in overall diameter and width of the 215 compared to the OEM tire would allow me to carry it in the spare tire well. It works! But I am fairly sure you wouldn't get the much fatter 235 tire in there, even though the OD is the same as the 215/65..
The car drives beautifully with these tires - the ride is much cushier, but folks who are looking for razor sharp handling will be disappointed. They are a little louder that the worn RE92As on the typical poorly-surfaced Spokane streets, but it isn't objectionable. I haven't had the car off pavement yet, but i am sure it will be a VAST improvement.
I am going to buy a set of Michelin X-Ice II tires for winter. I'll mount them on my OEM 17 inch wheels. I bet the A/T-S tires are adequate in fresh snow, but I also bet they slip like crazy on ice.
My speedometer error has dropped from a constant +4 mph to +2.5 mph. When I install the winter tires, which are 27.2 inches OD, the speedometer should be dead accurate.
Oh yeah, I decided against installing TPMS sensors due to the cost and also the risk of snapping one off on a rock. I went with regular rubber stems with chrome covers and chrome hex caps. They look very nice. I added a round spot of black electrical tape to the dash cover to hide the !@#$ blinky TPMS warning light.
John Davies
Spokane WA