Hi-Lift Jack - how useful?

[FLHRSI]

List of useful recovery gear found here: Quick Reference Guide when Offroading - OFFROADSUBARUS.com


hey guys - I was reading through all of the great tips here and started compiling a list to keep in my car (as a novice, wannabe, hack off roader) glovebox for future reference. So here's everyone's tips all in one easy to read (and print) list. Apologies if I missed anyone's suggestion.


Dirt (bush)
keep the vehicle as flat as possible without wheel lifting is most important
for mud - a slower approach, but still with some momentum
wheel placement
Picking the right line, especially in an AWD, is the best way to get past a challenging track without damage.
Take your time.

Water
get out and determine how deep
check surface underneath use a stick as a dipstick or walking throught it.
Maintaining momentum is critical, not too fast water goes everywhere but not too slow you get stuck
make sure the water is not flowing too quickly

Sand
Lower tyres to 18 psi to begin - lower if the sand is very soft (but no lower than 10 psi)
No sharp turns - you could roll the car or roll a tyre off the rim
No sharp braking - this will bog you; just let the car roll to a stop
No heavy acceleration from a standstill
Never transverse a dune or hill; always straight up or down.
Better to stop when level or facing downhill; restarting uphill can be difficult
Keep an eye on your temp guage - stop if necessary to cool down
Have a sump guard or take the plastic guard off.
Also take off those little wing things in front of the front wheels
If stuck uphill, drive the vehicle down in reverse; as little braking as possible.
Most important thing about sand driving is keeping the revs up and not losing momentum. The more power on tap to play with in the soft stuff, the less you will get stuck (or shouldn't get stuck if there's clearance).
Make sure your vehicle is in excellent condition as sand can be the hardest strain your vehicle may face
steady on the gas and try not to stop in the real soft stuff

General
do not wrap your thumbs around the steering wheel
Lower tyre pressures produce a smoother ride on any rough surfacethe main idea behind lowering PSI is that you create a longer foot print longer foot print = better floatation = traction = further along the track or beach
Don't go alone when wheeling, and always let someone know where you're going and when you're expecting to be back
Don't go unprepared, even if the trip is supposed to be a short one - $hit happens even in your own driveway
Wheel placement is crucial as is knowing the vehicle's weak points (capabilities too, but it's more important to know what the vehicle can't do
In some conditions e.g. sand, mud, slippery surfaces, it is useful to disable ABS
If stuck and with open rear diff, loading up the diff by applying some handbrake pressure might get you out
"Driving through the brakes" is a useful technique to learn (loads up front & rear diff)

Handy stuff to have….
a shovel (with a telescopic handle are easy to pack)
2 snatch straps (in case one breaks)
1 tool box with as many tool as you can carry without being too heavy
1st aid kits
1 vehcle fire extinguisher
warm clothing
sleeping bag (incase you get stuck over night)
enough food for 24 hours (if out with family take enough food)
plenty of water
camp chairs
uhf hand helds in case 1 in vehicle in inoperable due too failed elctrics of vehicle
a few good quality wind up torches (much better than a battery operated 1)
2 x D Shackels (rated)
an equallizer strap (not that I know what it is or what it's for)
flat block of wood for a jack base in case you need to lift the car on sand/mud.

Recommended PSI's
28 for bush tracks
25-30 for moderate offroading
20-22 bush/mud
15-18 for sand (lower if you're in trouble; but not less than 10 PSI though)

Cheers,
Skender

[FLHRSI]

Another recovery option- the Bush Winch: Bush Winches

[John E Davies]

Originally Posted by FLHRSI

Another recovery option- the Bush Winch: Bush Winches

Their cheapest kit with anchors and guides is US$950, plus shipping to the USA. I think the price alone puts this out of reach for most people. OTH, it is intended to replace an electric winch, which may cost you the same $$$$, depending on brand and size.

Do you know if they have a USA distributor?

Their reviews are most impressive: ... http://www.bushwinch.com.au/testimonials.html

A video: ...

You Tube

You Tube

A couple more:

You Tube

You Tube

You Tube

You Tube

I like that you can use it on a number of different vehicles, IF the bolt patterns are the same - otherwise you have to buy additional drums and guides and nuts; it will almost double the price for a second vehicle. I suspect this would be a good choice for fleet use where all the trucks are the same.

But, yikes it is a durned expensive investment....

I emailed asking about availability here, and shipping cost to the USA. I'll post their reply.

John Davies
Spokane WA

['05 Outback 2.5i]

Originally Posted by FLHRSI

Another recovery option- the Bush Winch: Bush Winches

Not only is it pretty pricey (already into electric winch territory as John has noted), and a royal pain to set-up (compared to an electric winch), but I have to wonder what happens when the opposite wheel has less traction (Can sustain less torque before it spins) than the 'winch' wheel, wouldn't the winch wheel stop turning at that point, and the vehicle stop moving as the opposite wheel spins helplessly?

On top of that, I seriously doubt it was designed to be used with a vehicle that cannot lock its center differential, because again, with an open (or limited slip) center differential, it seems conceivable that engine power would go to the front wheels and the rear axle would stop turning. Now all of this depends on the load on the 'winch wheel', but if the vehicle is significantly stuck, it can be a sizable load..