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2000-2004 DIY Rear Spoiler Installation

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62K views 43 replies 20 participants last post by  FMGreen  
#1 ·
Installation instructions:
PDF (1.4MB): http://subaru.FMGreen.net/SpoilerDIY/SubaruGenuineSpoilerInstallationInstructions.pdf

Allow me to preface this by referencing the info from user: quazar, about halfway through this thread: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10494

...the spoiler mounts with 2 holes on each side.. slightly staggered.. i believe that the lower holes in the template were about 1/4 off as in too far in. i drilled the holes according to the template and then i ended up widening the lower holes closer to an oval shape to get the studs from the spoiler to fit.

hope that helps!
Indeed, when I taped them up and held the spoiler up to do a visual check, the holes on my OEM templates were also incorrectly spaced. I ended up eyeballing the whole proces, using the templates as a starting point, but then adjusting adjusting my marks manually.
I aligned the two "lower" holes (back of the gate) first and then the two "upper" holes (side of the gate). In the end, I ended up having to widen the two upper holes, as they were spaced quite poorly. I ended up with two holes on the top that were about 3/4" oval each.

Be very careful and don't trust the OEM templates.
Don't be scared away, just go slow, measure twice (or three, or eleven times...) and then drill.

On to the pictures. Say hello to my dad's 71 year old mason, sandpaper hands...

0) Remove interior vertical trim pieces.

1) Attach the OEM plastic templates to the top of the hatch.
Image

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2) Use a metal punch to create a point for your drill to start from.
Image


3) Say a prayer

4) Drill...
Image


5) Punch your mark for the second hole.
Image

Image


6) Drill...

7) Repeat on the other side.

8) Apply touch-up paint, or some other protectant, to the surfaces you drilled.

9) Insert spoiler bolt-posts through the holes you drilled.

10) Attach nuts to these bolts.
(It's in there...behind the wires)
Image

Image


11) Attach bolts to the spoiler through the other holes you drilled.
Image

Image


12) Apply touch-up paint, or some other protectant, to the interior surfaces and around the bolts.

13) Reinstall vertical trim pieces

Enjoy the finished product!
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Image
 
#6 ·
Might try breaking up a grease pencil, sticking bits of them in the mounting holes in the spoiler.

Then align the template onto the car as per instructions, and mark the template holes onto the car using the grease pencil again.

Remove the template and convert the marks you just made into an "X"

Now, pick the spoiler and gently place it into its mounting position, and press firmly and evenly.

Remove the spoiler, and you should have little marks on your car where the the bits of grease pencil in the mounting holes marked the correct position.

Now you can look and see how far off the template is and readjust, if you have to use the template for some reason.

Or just drill the holes marked by your spoiler.
 
#14 ·
yup,

and the junk yards can confuse them in their computers with the cheaper smoked black plastic dust deflector.

so it is going to be hit or miss with craigslist part outs, and rare.

So yeah for EBAY. (maybe), plus shipping.
 
#16 ·
does the paint code match the car you got? If you hit it with a rattle can, even a custom mixed one it will look like h3ll,...as the paint area is so big and close to your eye. vs. someone with experience doing it with a air brush / sprayer.

both my spoilers were on the cars when I bought them.

highly recommended here before:
pro-body shop, with their paint, and them putting it on. they will remove the top trim on the inside and center it.

you might have to ask at a subaru dealer for the "folio" printed of how one is supposed to be mounted. (this is really old, and really rare at this point,...back when the cars were new they had this stuff on microfilm, but hopefully they can log into a subaru corp. system that still has it).

from this past spring, and a 2003 wagon:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/142273-just-scored-outback-spoiler-how-do-i-remove.html
 
#26 ·
Nepbug - good luck with that template. When I was removing mine I encountered stiff resistance from SOA - they refused to give me any help. I had to get some diagrams from a body shop to see where the bolts and clips were. Maybe things are different in Canada. I think you will get better info from a body shop. Also if spoiler wasn't OEM you will have problems with with bolts
 
#27 ·
It's like adding a roof rack on a car that did not have OEM roof rack to start with. The bolts that go through the roof have to have stainless steel reinforced inserts otherwise the roof rack will not hold properly. Have done that - have been through that. This is not to discourage you - just heads up!
 
#29 ·
Yes, I removed something that came with my Forester XT as OEM installed (it wasn't added). Some 2010 Foresters came with spoilers and some didn't, depending on model. I don't understand what you are trying to say about lawyers and such...

When I sold that car, I put that spoiler back in the trunk (with all hardware) for future owner. He may or may not have installed it back - I don't know and I don't care. I don't think that it devalued the car - but that is my opinion - you may think otherwise.

When I called Subaru (to get instructions how to remove it) they wouldn't do it. I had to get the body shop to give me a schematic for location of bolts and clips. While talking to SOA they just said, what I posted earlier. Well, what can I say - I don't have any control of what they do nor say - I am a consumer. I am just posting here, what I have done and why.
 
#32 ·
Fair enough. what I was getting at with the lawyers. If dust deflectors were listed as safety equipment, then would it not behoove the companies to sell them on every hatch back vehicle?

a couple years ago there was a rash of Jeep Grand Cherokees dieing on highways as their gas gauges were stuck on 1/3 tank although they were flat empty. (sometimes happening in the high speed passing lane in heavy traffic). Jeep was fighting the NHTSA safety recall and together they deemed electric gas gauges on the inside cluster to be "convenience items" vs. safety equipment.
 
#30 ·
So, I might have access to a hatch in a junkyard nearby with it's spoiler removed. I'm thinking of trying to go there and make a template. What should I use? Any suggestions?

I was at first thinking something like fiberglass, but that's too slow. This needs to take about 10 minutes. Then I though plastidip, but that's still too slow.

Maybe I'll just do some tape or vinyl to create a template. Instead of being a mold I'll just have to carefully trim the edges to line up perfectly with the hatch.

Anyone with any other ideas? Of course I could just take measurements. I was just going to install mine by using some prussian blue to transfer the drill points, but if I can make an accurate template to help the community, great!

Shoot, after researching a little more I think I can make a decent template out of cardboard/paperboard. Stay tuned.
 
#31 ·
So, I might have access to a hatch in a junkyard nearby with it's spoiler removed. I'm thinking of trying to go there and make a template. What should I use? Any suggestions?

I was at first thinking something like fiberglass, but that's too slow. This needs to take about 10 minutes. Then I though plastidip, but that's still too slow.

Maybe I'll just do some tape or vinyl to create a template. Instead of being a mold I'll just have to carefully trim the edges to line up perfectly with the hatch.

Anyone with any other ideas? Of course I could just take measurements. I was just going to install mine by using some prussian blue to transfer the drill points, but if I can make an accurate template to help the community, great!

Edit: never tried this before, ever. just ideas to throw out for someone to critique.


vinyl shower curtain. that has not rippled seams might do.

(like if you left it on a warm driveway in the sun to heat up),...the real heavy kind if you got one hanging or saving for a drop cloth / tarp would be ideal.

getting double sided tape to stick to cold metal is hard. (tried with 3m stuff yesteraday. 33 degrees F in the garage). but getting something like that or wimpy hot glue onto the junk yard hatch would be esential so it does not move.

tape the loose edges of the curtain over the back of the of the junk car so it does not move.

then cut on the seem of the hatch edge, and the bolt holes with a razor knife. maybe with tape / glue if it wants to move some.
 
#33 ·
Well, I made some templates from a junkyard car.

Image


Holes are about 5/16", but I wouldn't be afraid of going up to 3/8" if some extra wiggle room is needed. The threads of the bolts are a little under a 1/4" and the flange of the nuts/bolt heads are a little over 1/2" so there is room for fudging.

I also have Jackie at Annapolis Subaru talking with SOA to see if she can acquire a set of templates. So, if those don't follow through I will go with these.

Once they are proven out I will scan them and upload to this thread.

Of course the spoiler I have is Regatta Red and I need a Winestone Pearl (maroon). If anyone has a Winestone Pearl spoiler and wants to trade for my Regatta Red it would save me a step and I can get this template verified quicker, right now I don't know when I'll get the paint and have a day warm enough to paint it.
 
#39 ·
The center of one hole is 0.85 inches from the edge of the hatch and 0.95 inches above the glass. The center of the other hole is 6.65 inches from the edge of the hatch and 0.72 inches above the glass. Do this on both sides of the hatch and it should work out for you. But make sure to measure with precision (I measured with a nice digital caliper on a couple legacy GTs of this generation and found tolerances with these measurements as much as 0.05 inches. So be precise.) I drilled them out with a 3/8" bit. Everything went on smoothly (except for the part where I dropped two nuts inside the hatch... oops) and fits like a charm.

Image
 
#40 ·
The center of one hole is 0.85 inches from the edge of the hatch and 0.95 inches above the glass. The center of the other hole is 6.65 inches from the edge of the hatch and 0.72 inches above the glass. Do this on both sides of the hatch and it should work out for you. But make sure to measure with precision (I measured with a nice digital caliper on a couple legacy GTs of this generation and found tolerances with these measurements as much as 0.05 inches. So be precise.) I drilled them out with a 3/8" bit. Everything went on smoothly (except for the part where I dropped two nuts inside the hatch... oops) and fits like a charm.
Gonna give these measurments a shot this weekend! installing mine after paint.
 
#43 ·
Installation instructions:
PDF (1.4MB): http://subaru.FMGreen.net/SpoilerDIY/SubaruGenuineSpoilerInstallationInstructions.pdf

Allow me to preface this by referencing the info from user: quazar, about halfway through this thread: Rear wing spoiler info



Indeed, when I taped them up and held the spoiler up to do a visual check, the holes on my OEM templates were also incorrectly spaced. I ended up eyeballing the whole proces, using the templates as a starting point, but then adjusting adjusting my marks manually.
I aligned the two "lower" holes (back of the gate) first and then the two "upper" holes (side of the gate). In the end, I ended up having to widen the two upper holes, as they were spaced quite poorly. I ended up with two holes on the top that were about 3/4" oval each.

Be very careful and don't trust the OEM templates.
Don't be scared away, just go slow, measure twice (or three, or eleven times...) and then drill.

On to the pictures. Say hello to my dad's 71 year old mason, sandpaper hands...

0) Remove interior vertical trim pieces.

1) Attach the OEM plastic templates to the top of the hatch.

Image

Image


2) Use a metal punch to create a point for your drill to start from.
Image


3) Say a prayer

4) Drill...

Image


5) Punch your mark for the second hole.
Image

Image


6) Drill...

7) Repeat on the other side.

8) Apply touch-up paint, or some other protectant, to the surfaces you drilled.

9) Insert spoiler bolt-posts through the holes you drilled.

10) Attach nuts to these bolts.

(It's in there...behind the wires)
Image

Image


11) Attach bolts to the spoiler through the other holes you drilled.
Image

Image


12) Apply touch-up paint, or some other protectant, to the interior surfaces and around the bolts.

13) Reinstall vertical trim pieces

Enjoy the finished product!

Image

Image

Image

Image
What did you use to waterproof the holes you drilled, if at all?