another good writeup

i see those overloads are a bit longer, stiffer too or just more preload ?

curious how the ride is with those and what prompted you to go that route, towing stuff ?

did it raise the rear at all ?

if so, any issues with down travel ? shock fully extending over high speed whoops ?

 

Proper use of the car load space prompted me to get overload springs

Stuff like that happens at least twice a month since my friend totalled his truck.


The whole car rides really epic now. Better than it ever did before. I get some feedback on the road but not enough to ruin the ride. It also corners pretty amazing, better than my friends 04 RS to me. Or at least more surprising, I feel like the side bolsters are finally serving some purpose other than to kill my back.

I also like being able to sit on the tailgate and the car not sag.

Overall I'd say they're worth it if you ever plan to use the car. I just like doing everything at once.

 

right on, so the rear coils helped balance out the stiffer front swaybar ?

you didn't do a rear sway right ?

mine at this point doesn't get a lot of abuse of really heavy loads, i have a 3/4 pick up and access to trailers for big loads so not a motivator for me. for me a front and rear sways would probably make more sense with either the existing or new stock rate springs.

i had thought of putting a hitch on it but, the 2k limit seems anemic to me with a truck with 11k capability.

 

Question about tension

Basically trying to figure out if once you remove the lower bolt if there is still tension on the strut. Your description sort of implies there is no tension, but my newb suspicion is there is still tension, and you must basically deal with it by slowly by lowering the support under the eyelet (or raising the rear suspension). Am I making any sense?

You don't use the compressor until the entire spring / strut is off the car, but trying to figure out what I am up against before it's totally off...and before the lower bolt is re-installed putting it all back together.

FYIW, I'm asking about this for doing this procedure on a 07...assume no real difference.

 

Once the bottom bolt is out, the assembly is not under any tension. When you knock the bottom bolt out, the strut will go down a few inches and that will be it.

The only tension is on the spring itself, and that will be gone once you take the top hat off.

Hope I'm helping

 

Great write up, totally agree about the benefits of longer springs.

 

Alternate method for lining up the bolt hole to the replacement rear damper:

Yeah for 2x4's!!!!


I also highly recommend disconnecting one link on the swaybar. This will make it easier for the left and right suspensions to move independently so that when you use the 2x4 method, you're not fighting against both sides of the car. It also makes it easier to get the old dampers off the car.

 

And if you do have the factory scissor jack. It will fit in there perfectly upside down. It is also easier to use a jack if you are working alone.

 

Hi there, newb here.

At last service the mechanic report stated I need to replace rear shocks on my 2000 Outback. Can anyone recommend replacement aftermarket shocks - I am in Australia and no-one here seems to be able to offer me any!

Specific part and a URL would be appreciated!

Thanks,

 

Most here recommend KYB

You can go here to get the GR2 part numbers and find the cross references to other manufacturers:

KYB Online Parts Catalog

Not sure how available they are down under but at least with a part number you should hopefully find some.

Front Left 334276
Front Right 334275
Rear L&R 341276

 

Oops, missed seeing reply above that is more useful.

 

GR2s replacement rear shocks for 2000 Outback

Thanks for the advice. I bought and installed a GR2 to replace a leaking shock on the driver side.

Initially all was well but 150miles on and there is a squeaking sound coming from that area - I can make it squeak by bouncing the tailgate by hand or pulling the roofbar sideways.

Anyone suggest what needs tightening or lubricating? It didn't make these sounds when I initially test drove it after installing the new shock.

I still have to replace the other side shock, but if I haven't done a good job then I don't want to waste my time on it.

Thanks,

Paul.

 

Thanks for the advice. I bought and installed a GR2 to replace a leaking shock on the driver side.

Initially all was well but 150miles on and there is a squeaking sound coming from that area - I can make it squeak by bouncing the tailgate by hand or pulling the roofbar sideways.

Anyone suggest what needs tightening or lubricating? It didn't make these sounds when I initially test drove it after installing the new shock.

I still have to replace the other side shock, but if I haven't done a good job then I don't want to waste my time on it.

Thanks,

Paul.

Possibly the upper shock mount is worn internally? Or the swaybar link? Can you determine if the squeak is coming from one side or the other side of the car? Does it still squeak if you disconnect the swaybar?
Get somebody else to bouce the car while you listen carfully. A good trick to poinpoint noises is to get some aquarium tubing and stick it in your year and put the other end on various solid parts of the car. The sound will transmit very well through the tubing. Call it a poor man's stethescope

 

You can spray some silicone lube up on the upper two piece mount to see if it's the source of the squeek.

I just replaced my rear shocks, used new springs [baja, stiffer] and new mounts. I can see those mounts not mating up solid if you reused them, basically the rubber gets compressed in one position for 10 years or so ... it's probably not pliable enough to completely reseat in a different position.

 

Got to the bottom of the sounds...the nylon lock nut on at the top of new shock needed tightening up 2-3 more turns. Had to remove to get at it - complete refit. They should put a torque setting in the instructions!

On the plus side the passenger side went in without a hitch. Can't buy experience!

One piece of advice I got elsewhere was to tighten up the bottom bolt at "ride height" because tightening fuly when jacked up can cause "extraneous" forces once the wheel is lowered, causing accelerated wear on the bushing.

Appreciate all your feedback.

 

Torque specs are vehicle manufacturer supplied and are in the manual. Parts suppliers rarely if ever spec torque since the parts may have multiple applications.

I don't see the logic in putting weight on a bolt then trying to torque it, you are then stressing the bolt/ part interface and there is no way to compensate for that added "drag" or "resistance" on the part and you may end up with a bolt that is not torqued correctly and will have play when the suspension is loaded/unloaded.

 

Long springs?

Brucey,
I would like to know where you got your longer rear springs from. I have been shopping around and not having much luck. I realize that was a long time ago so anything you can remember would be great.
Thanks.

 

I believe they're from Rallitek. I actually still have the old ones if you need those. Just found them while cleaning out the garage.

 

Thanks for the response. No need for the stock springs. The ones in my car now hold up the back of the car just fine...until I put a load in it.
I went to Rallitek's web page and they no longer list them. In a Goog search, I found a thread where it said they were no longer available.
Do you have any ideas about who else makes heavy duty springs or "cargo coils."

 

There is a thread about them somewhere. I think people were putting factory Baja springs in.

Let me find it.

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...rg/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/14823-rallitek-hd-rear-springs.html

Try there man.

 

did anyone else have the final configuration of the strut be just a few degrees off? i have to "twist" it a little to line up that lower bolt hole. is that normal? i had paint marks to line everything up right when reinstalling so it's really close.

that lower bolt was insane. 3/4" 900 ft-lb air gun didn't get it off?! but 3 feet of pipe did?

i mangled the threads of that bolt reinstalling it - not sure how i'll proceed with that in the morning.

 

Hmm - I guess I forgot reading this post before I posted my troubles getting the nut off with an impact gun with 1/3 the power.

 

When you say,"twist" do you mean the relationship between the strut top mounting holes and the lower strut mounting holes? In other words, as if it were a front strut and able to rotate with the front suspension?
That is perfectly normal.
As far as the bolt is concerned, if you don't have a replacement handy and you can clean up the threads with a die or thread file enough to get the bolt tight enough, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The real load is on the bolt here (shear) not the threads.


Did you reuse your stock springs or upgrade? I'm about to do the same job but need upgraded springs and I am looking for opinions and options.

 

When you say,"twist" do you mean the relationship between the strut top mounting holes and the lower strut mounting holes? In other words, as if it were a front strut and able to rotate with the front suspension?
That is perfectly normal.

right on, that's what i mean.

] you can clean up the threads with a die or thread file

it's larger than 12mm, which is as high as my set goes.

Did you reuse your stock springs or upgrade? I'm about to do the same job but need upgraded springs and I am looking for opinions and options.

i installed the original springs. hopefully i didn't hose myself on that one, i just didn't really know how much different it would be.

 

i was wondering a time estimate when i started so here's my results: took 1.5 hours for the first one (my first time doing this on an OBW, second strut i've ever done) and one hour for the second one. it could easily be done quicker depending what you got to remove that bottom bolt! LOL

i used a grease pen to draw a line across the tophat, bushing, and springs for realignment purposes. it was rather easy to simply realign the spring to the bushings to the top hate since they had been "married" together for years and miles - the passengers side just all stuck together as one lump, i never touched it and it never moved - slid old strut out, new strut in and done.

my top hats and bushings were in great condition so i just kept them and only replaced the struts. 190,000 miles, probably should have replaced them but they seemed fine.

probably not supposed to do this but of course the one allen wrench size i needed for holding that strut bolt on top was missing - so i used my impact gun - it zipped that 17mm bolt right in place without an allen wrench. it'll cause the shaft to turn a few times though which is probably not ideal for the strut, so i don't recommend it but using a screwdriver and other assorted make-shift stuff was really slow.

 

There is nothing in the strut that will be damaged if spun a little bit. If you sat there and spun the gun for a few minutes...that's a different story. It is common practice to remove that top nut with a gun and the sucker will spin and spin and spin. It's kinda fun after a half a minute when the top seal on the strut starts to smoke!
The top hats and bearings...if your comfortable with how they looked...be comfortable. Worse thing that could happen is you get some noises out of it and honestly they would have to be pretty bad for that to happen. Now you know how to change them so the job will go twice as fast the second time!
Your stock springs should be fine if you haven't had concerns. I tow and carry some heavy stuff sometimes and have noticed considerable sagging which effects the handling and wheel alignment. There used to be a company local here in CT that carried replacement HD springs but no more. So I am keeping my eyes open for options. I think I will end up going for the BAJA springs...we'll see.

 

Thanks so much everyone!

Rears were much easier for me than the fronts. Mainly because of a difficult placing the spring compressors on the front. The rears were simple from a spring compressor stand point.

My notes for an 05 XT wagon:

0) I started taking apart the rear interior sides so I could break the top bolt loose and reach the two nuts with the studs. What a pain. After a few minutes, I stopped, and just decided to deal with the access I had. I did lower the rear seat backs to give me better access, but I had enough to do the job (but couldn't torque the nuts on the studs)
1) Yes, that bottom bolt is shockingly tight. Perhaps the tightest bolt I've ever had to remove. My 3 foot breaker couldn't do it. My 1 foot 1/2" drive with 4 feet of pipe did it. The higher the car is up, the more pipe you can put on there to crank with. I wouldn't torch it because of the rubber around the shock, but that's just me. Others probably disagree.
2) I just let the threads 'unscrew' the bolt out from the control arm (if that's the right term). I did have my floor jack on the shock to take off the pressure. I didn't know how much to jack it up on the first one. Close to lifting the car up it turns out.
3) Don't forget to put the dust boot back on. I did on the last one, DOH! Didn't realize until I was cleaning everything up. I found it and was going to leave it off until my wife asked "what's that going to do." Okay, fine. I slit it,worked it on, then used zip ties to hold it together. It looked like it would hold up just fine like that, but not ideal.
4) Make sure you line up the two top bolts perpendicular to the bottom hole. You won't be able to adjust this very easily once the spring is uncompressed, and it is critical to reinstalling. Otherwise you are torquing the bottom rubber piece when it gets reinstalled, and that just doesn't seem right. It will also make it much harder to put it all together, and that's hard enough as is.
5) Use the 6 mm allen and a socket held with vice grips to tighten the top nut so everything is snug to the shoulder. Then release the spring compressors, then torque. I was able to get both to click with 40 ft lbs, same as the front. I did spin the top hat relative to the bottom a bit. One I didn't fix that, and it was hard getting it all back together. On the 2nd one, I was able to spin it back to where I wanted it. I suppose once it is torqued, you can recompress the springs and rotate it to the right position easily, but with hand tools I wasn't going to use the spring compressors any more than I had to. It was a good work out through.
6)I used my small 2 ton floor jack which is on wheels under the shock to jack it up and push it around in to position. This worked quite well. I did give the bolt a tap to start it (I was nervous about buggering the threads, but it worked out), and then tightened the bolt and let the threads pull it through. This all worked well, but use at your own risk.

That's it. Very doable. Both front and rear took me about 11 hours, but 2-3 hours were screwing around with the front spring compressor and 1 hour of cleaning up, vacuuming while i had access, etc. If you are really lucking you might be able to get all 4 done in 6 hours, but I think 8 is normal if you don't run in to problems (which you will). Rears were about 3 hours.

Thanks everyone! Good luck to others trying it...