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DIY: Gen 4 dash camera hardwire install

87K views 52 replies 18 participants last post by  geneworld 
#1 ·
Why have a dashcam?
One day you might witness this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4guQa54iCU
Or this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-xRlf5RzKY
Either way, it is better to have a recording device handy than not.

I wanted to have a clean discreet install, without cutting into the factory wiring. Our Outbacks already have power connectors in the right places.

Level of difficulty: Easy

Time required: About an hour

Supplies:
Tools:
  • Philips screwdriver
  • Trim tool (optional)
  • Soldering iron

Installation:

Remove map lights and sunglasses pocket: undo 2 Philips screws in the pocket (do not drop them - small black screws blend nicely with the car’s black floor), and pull on the map lights near the lenses. There are two spring clips. Do not damage the headliner. Drop the map lights assembly (I just left it dangling on the cable, may not be the best practice though).


Find the plug for the mirror harness – it should be taped to the map lights harness. The plug on my car has three wires: Yellow with blue stripe - +12V accessory power (connected to the 7.5A fuse #6 in the fuse box under the dash), Black - ground, Black with green stripe - +12V backup lights.


The mirror harness has a corresponding 3-pin connector on the car side, and 7-pin connector on the mirror side. Harness wires are all black, +12V acc is black with gray stripe, and ground is in the middle.


Prepare the power adapter for the camera: cut off the 7-pin connector from the mirror harness (or splice if you already have an auto-dimming mirror) and hook up the USB power converter. I soldered the wires, insulated all connections with heat-shrink tubing, and added some electrical tape to hold the wires together.


Connect and test the camera. The lens is vertically adjustable.

Route the USB power cord through the seam at the top of the windshield. Hint: use a thin flexible cable with the smallest mini-USB plug you can find – the seam opening is quite narrow.

Re-install the map lights assembly.

Mount the camera using the included double-sided tape. Don’t forget to de-grease the surfaces first.
 
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4
#2 ·
Initial impressions:
The camera does not obstruct the view from the driver’s seat – it is completely hidden behind the rearview mirror.
It is practically invisible from outside (the photo was taken with a polarizing filter to suppress glare).
The camera and the USB power converter get barely warm (~30˚C) when operating. We will see how it is going to perform in the winter with condensation etc.
 

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#3 ·
Error, thank you for your explanation.
I am looking forward to follow your guide to install the Mobius dash cam on my 2015 Outback.
My OB comes with auto dimming mirror w/ compass. I will splice the harness with two connections. One for the mirror and one for the step down converter. I am still researching if powering both the mirror and dash cam will draw too much current and cause an overheat issue.
 
#4 ·
Jimmiez,

I'd be interested in what you come up with regarding load of mirror and camera. I'm thinking about an E-Prance 0803. I have one in my truck but just got a 2015 Subaru Outback, the issue I may have is that I have the eyesight system. Just a quick look didn't show me any screws to remove the cover over everything up there. I'm scared for sure and also wonder if one of these cameras will interfere with the eyesight system cameras. I know some cameras emit RF pretty bad, like the GO Pro for sure.

Gene
 
#5 ·
Awesome! Thanks for posting this. I was just thinking if this was possible to do with the mirror power source (I don't have the auto dimming mirror on my 2012 Outback, but thought the power source might be there) but didn't have the skill or knowledge to do it.

I spent the weekend researching dashcams and had them narrowed down to the A118 or the smaller Mobius. Now it just looks like I need to order the Subaru wiring harness, power source for a camera and I'll most likely need a 6 pack of beer and 5 hours to get it done properly.

James
 
#6 ·
Wow, just found this...that's exactly what I've been wanting to do!

I wonder for the poster that already had the 3-pin in use, maybe there's a way to get both male/female connectors and put in an intermediate tap without cutting the factory wiring? I had an aftermarket stereo system that did that to pull power from a stereo amp...but it may require a trip to the junkyard to track down both sides of the plug at reasonable cost.

Have you investigated putting one in the back as well -- to get a more complete picture of people who are being reckless from behind?

Have you put in the optional GPS module for that A118 camera?
 
#8 ·
I might add another camera in the back at some point next summer - have plenty of time to think about the details. Presumably a Mobius ultra-compact, powered from rear aux 12V outlet circuit - we'll see what might be available by then. Will probably add a Homelink mirror first and hack the radio again - I had upgraded stock Clarion radio to a 4.3" display Panasonic unit with backup cam, and now decided to redo antenna connections (add diversity and XM), and possibly add a small inline amp.

As for GPS receiver - what would be a plausible scenario where GPS data may be necessary?

...does the mirror harness supply 12v constant or is it controlled by the ignition? my camera has a "parking mode" where it will record after it feels bumps and stuff and i can rotate it around to face the interior. but i don't want want it to die as soon as i take the key out, great write up on how to tear into the interior. the dealer just recommended i wire it to the battery and though the grommet in the firewall. id rather use the way you described to keep the wiring shorter as i have mine right by the mirror out of the way.
The mirror harness is powered when the key is in ACC position. If you need constant 12V, it might be possible to tap into map lights (check power requirements first - it would be rather expensive to fry the BIU) or run a wire from the radio harness.

I thought about adding a USB power pack to the system - a 13000 mAh battery could probably keep the camera on overnight. On the other hand, if the lithium battery overheats and goes up in flames, the insurance company might not be happy.
 
#7 ·
i have one mounted and for now i just use the 12v cig adapter and i just ran the wires around my camera came with an hardwire kit that just needs a 12v source. does the mirror harness supply 12v constant or is it controlled by the ignition? my camera has a "parking mode" where it will record after it feels bumps and stuff and i can rotate it around to face the interior. but i don't want want it to die as soon as i take the key out, great write up on how to tear into the interior. the dealer just recommended i wire it to the battery and though the grommet in the firewall. id rather use the way you described to keep the wiring shorter as i have mine right by the mirror out of the way.
 
#9 ·
In my 2012 Outback Limited w/ sunroof, the 3-pin harness (same one OP used) supplies "12V accessory-on (yellow)" and "12V back-up-lights-on (gray)" plus ground (black). The A180 camera has a small battery inside that provides a few minutes of record time after the car is shut off (or in an accident when power is severed).

If you have a homelink mirror, try and find it's constant-on 12V source (if it has one). My 2012 homelink/autodim/backup-cam mirror has a separate rainbow-color wiring harness (part of the camera package, but no plug connector in the roof) that includes +12 all the time with one of the many wires. The 2013 and 2014 my parents' have (Outback Limited w/ sunroof) came with homelink mirrors which have a 4-wire harness that includes always-on power (but again, no plug in the roof that I can find).

Without the homelink mirror, First thing comes to mind for constant power is tap into the dome light power and a ground but use caution - there's at least some of the dome light circuits that dim with the interior lighting and those probably would do bad things to a camera. I'm also not sure if the interior light power may get cut off after some point by the battery-saver. Best bet if you really want it to stay on (beware battery drain) would be follow the factory wiring down to the fuse box along an A-pillar and locate a source of power there.
 
#10 ·
Advance warning, after a fair bit of hunting on a 2013 and 2014 3.6R Outback Limited w/ Moonroof and factory-equipped homelink mirror it appears those models no longer have the 3-pin plug to tap into but rather run 4 wires from the main harness all the way to the mirror. Check before you buy.

So far the best idea I've come up with is either cutting/splicing into the factory wiring (it's plenty long to pull down to work on), or using some sort of "probe" plug like radar detectors to slip into the back of the plug where it goes into the mirror itself.

For those who do have the 3-pin plug, the cheapest I've been able to source a mirror wiring harness from for this mod is this eBay seller:
Subaru Rearview Mirror Plug Play Wiring Harness Homelink Others New | eBay

One other word of warning, the A118 B40 camera emits awful VHF RFI and is probably not in compliance with FCC regulations about causing harmful interference. I'm still working on a solution but to mitigate, put ferrite chokes (size to fit all your wires thru, wrap around, thru a second time) around power/GPS/video wires as soon as they leave the camera. This helps and I'm hoping replacing the charger and using shorter wires will reduce or eliminate it the rest of the way. The worst RFI spike is around 148.5 MHz and severely degrades the upper amateur radio band jamming transceivers out to about 15 feet from the car while the camera is operating. If I find a better solution to the RFI, I'll try to edit this post to include details.

Now I just have to wait for the wiring harness to come in so I can splice it into my regulator and tidy up my install!
 
#11 ·
...One other word of warning, the A118 B40 camera emits awful VHF RFI and is probably not in compliance with FCC regulations about causing harmful interference. I'm still working on a solution but to mitigate, put ferrite chokes (size to fit all your wires thru, wrap around, thru a second time) around power/GPS/video wires as soon as they leave the camera. This helps and I'm hoping replacing the charger and using shorter wires will reduce or eliminate it the rest of the way. The worst RFI spike is around 148.5 MHz and severely degrades the upper amateur radio band jamming transceivers out to about 15 feet from the car while the camera is operating. If I find a better solution to the RFI, I'll try to edit this post to include details....
I vaguely remember seeing a discussion on A118's EM noise - IIRC, in the end the source was identified to be the poor quality 12V-to-USB power adapter that comes with the camera.

Can you check the camera noise with a different power source?
 
#16 ·
Well you've already done most that can be done. You've tried foil and you have the paint too, which is basically the best you can get.

I was basically going to put some http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-Copper-Acrylic-Adhesive-Converted/dp/B00KNUD6F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423806579&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+shielding+tape on the inside housing, maybe about 2-3 layers.
Then was going to try to put some on the back side of the PCB and connect to ground as a grounding plane.

You have your camera hard wired and the mini usb has a ferrite too. So the issue is definitely from the camera's end.

The guy behind streetguardian dash cams on dashcamtalk says he modified the hardware on his version to make the A118C better. Maybe we can get some more info from him on his camera's EMC.
 
#17 ·
Well you've already done most that can be done. You've tried foil and you have the paint too, which is basically the best you can get.

I was basically going to put some Amazon 3M copper tape on the inside housing, maybe about 2-3 layers.
Then was going to try to put some on the back side of the PCB and connect to ground as a grounding plane.

You have your camera hard wired and the mini usb has a ferrite too. So the issue is definitely from the camera's end.

The guy behind streetguardian dash cams on dashcamtalk says he modified the hardware on his version to make the A118C better. Maybe we can get some more info from him on his camera's EMC.
If you try that, let me know - I'd be very interested in any tests that you run.

I've finally caved and shelled out the $200 for the Garmin 20 and in my bench-tests I have been unable to measure any RFI in the 144-148MHz range on my spectrum analyzer nor radio.

This is still relivant to this thread -- I'm using the same method (same wire actually) for powering/installing the Garmin camera as the A118 following the OP's guide (plus a 1.5A fuse for peace of mind). Note, while the Garmin pictures look like micro-USB on the web photos it's actually an odd-shape plug but fits mini-USB. The only thing I need to do differently is locate a right-angle adapter to tidy up the install (pics coming later).

EDIT: and apparently figure out what pin in the USB tells the Garmin to go into PC mode...so I can stop the screen from staying on in mass-storage mode (but it works anyway, just turn brightness to minimum)
 
#19 ·
I mounted my dash cam right below the mirror, ran the cable up wire harness for the mirror and across the windshield liner and around the top of the doors to the rear cig lighter/power outlet. Perfect.
 
#20 ·
I need some help please gentlemen.

On my step down converter, we have the red and black wire.

on the dimming mirror harness, I have the 3 wires (black with white stripe with is +12v, middle which is the ground and the black on the end).

I imagine I connect the black with white stripe to the red wire.

Which wire do I connect to the black wire on the step down converter? The middle ground wire or the one on the end?

Thanks
James
 
#21 ·
Do you have a picture?

On the mirror harness, there should be ground, +12v accessory, +12v reverse-signal. You want to hook into ground and +12v accessory, tape off or ignore +12v reverse.

On the converter, I have seen 2 possible configurations:
12v Input, Ground, 5v output
12v Input, Ground input, 5v output, Ground output

Determine which is which (per it's directions) and hook the red input to +12v accessory, ground to ground, +5v output to the camera, and camera ground to either output-ground (if available) or the car ground (if the adapter has no output).

If you post pictures, it'll be easier to understand your issue.
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the great write up on this. I am considering mounting a dash cam the same way, but I have a couple questions. I have a auto dimming mirror so the 3-pin connector is being used for that. Is it possible to wire up a dash cam as well without splicing into the wires going to the mirror? If I have to I will, but would rather have the option to go back to stock if possible. If I get and extra harness is there a way to split it so the mirror can plug into it and also splice of the extra harness? Also, I saw the question earlier about whether or not having both hooked up would draw too much power and over heat something. Does anyone have an answer to that?
 
#23 ·
I would not worry about power consumption, it will probably be under 1/2 amp for the camera.

What model car specifically? You may need to look at the connectors in the roof first, I found mine (2012) was fifferent than my parents (2013/2014) even though they are all 3.6R Limited w/ sunroof and backup camera.

I suggest if you need to splice, add a new power connector and then plug the camera into that. I did that for my parents cars which had no connector in the cieling at all.
 
#25 ·
I am going to guess thats the same as my parents 2014 3.6R with homelink mirror then, there was no connector in the roof (only the back of the mirror) so I had to splice the wiring harness in the headliner. I added an Anderson Powerpole (because I had them handy and they were smallish) connector and then ran the camera from that.<br />
<br />
I will say they have had no issues so far as I know with powering both camera and mirror from the same wire.<br />
<br />
I can't remember which wire was what color but there were +12, key switch, reverse, and ground. I had to locate all of them because the reverse behaves like ground when its parked. I tapped the key switch +12 and the ground only.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Interesting. The 2014 my parents had did not have that connector (but my 2012 did).

What trim package do you have, and do you have any extras like blindspot-monitoring?

Yes, in that case you will have +12, Ground, Reverse.

Here's the procedure I used to figure it out using a multi-meter:
1. Set the parking brake so you can't roll, and turn the key to "run" so the dash lights up and dings (don't need the engine, this way you won't try and drive away accidentally)
2. Connect the black multi-meter lead to something bare metal on the car for a ground (door latch is easy to reach)
3. Touch the positive meter lead to each of the three pins, careful to touch only one at a time with the probe (don't short across 2 of them). You should find one +12 and the other 2 appear "dead". This is your key-switched positive, take note of it.
4. Shift the car into reverse (but don't let it roll).
5. Repeat your measurements on each pin. You should find two +12 and one appears "dead". The one that appears "dead" is the ground, take note of it.
6. Shift into park and shut off the key

Now you should know exactly what 2 wires you need to splice.

It's possible you may be able to order a cable on eBay to avoid splicing if you can figure out what mirror you have exactly. There was a very friendly and helpful seller I worked with he advertises "most cars to most mirrors" custom power cables (he sold me a 1/2 wiring harness for my 3-pin plug at reduced cost since I didn't need the mirror connector). I sent him a PM before buying to make sure we both were on the same page and communication was great. My original plan was to have him build me a new "Y-cable" that ran from the 3-pin plug to both the mirror and my camera until I learned that our cars were wired a bit differently. Since yours has the plug, you could probably speak with him about getting a custom cable that you just "unplug" the OEM wire at the mirror and 3-pin then connect the "new" wiring harness with the extra power wires.

Here's the seller that I spoke with about getting a custom connector for the 3-pin plug. If you can talk to him and get pictures of both the car and mirror plugs and explain you want a "Y" cable to power a dash cam from the key-switched power he can tell you if he can build the cable to your specifications.
For those who do have the 3-pin plug, the cheapest I've been able to source a mirror wiring harness from for this mod is this eBay seller:
Subaru Rearview Mirror Plug Play Wiring Harness Homelink Others New | eBay
 
#31 ·
I apologize for the lateness of these pictures...but here's a bit more detail showing how everything comes apart leading from the headliner down to the mirror.

The "tube" covering the wire to the mirror slides down (telescopes) and then unclips from the mirror mount.
Windshield Rear-view mirror Automotive mirror Glass Auto part
Windshield Automotive mirror Rear-view mirror Auto part Glass


I recommend unplugging the wires to get the "panel" out of the way, mine had 3 connectors to disconnect.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Aerospace engineering Automotive exterior


Then it's just a matter of pulling down on the plastic part, here you can see I eventually got it pulled down far enough you can see the blue light from the windshield coming thru the gap. In the one picture you can almost make out the yellowish tape holding the wire to the inside headliner where it comes up from the mirror.
The other thin "lose" wire you can see going to the windshield is the USB cable powering my dash cam.
Auto part Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Technology
Auto part Bumper Automotive exterior Windshield Automotive mirror
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Automotive exterior Vehicle
 
#32 ·
Thanks for the detailed pictures. I was afraid of pulling the plastic too hard to pull it away from the roof, but I just did it gently and the tab popped out and I can slide the cables through easily.

I have it all hooked up and the dash cam works great. It powers up and starts recording right way when I turn the car on. Is there any way to configure it to turn of the display though? It is tucked behind the mirro so it isn't a big deal for the driver, but is annoying for the passenger especially at night. I have the Novatek A115 mentioned in the OP.
 
#33 ·
EDIT: Apparently I can't read.

I'm not familiar with that camera, it's possible they do something like Garmin and use a nonstandard USB charge pinout. It's also possible they may have a menu for display timeout.

For my parents' car (Garmin Dash Cam 20) my solution was turn the brightness all the way down and forget about it.
 
#35 ·
Thank you everyone for documenting your efforts. I have a 2008 Outback Sport (Impreza) and thanks to the tutorial here, I am on my way to hardwiring my dashcam. I opened up my dome light cavity and found the corresponding 3-wire connector. I have a few parts on order to complete the project. The one thing I spent more time deciding was which DC step-down converter to purchase, given the numerous discussions of noise on here and on Amazon. I finally went with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XI9CZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a photo of my 3-pin connector:

There is a middle black wire = ground.
Then there is a yellow+?brown or red on one side, and a yellow+green wire on the other side.

According to some wiring diagrams I found online, the yellow/green one is the accessory wire.

In the original post, @error wrote:
"The mirror harness has a corresponding 3-pin connector on the car side, and 7-pin connector on the mirror side. Harness wires are all black, +12V acc is black with gray stripe, and ground is in the middle."

It's unclear if the black+gray wire is on the car side wiring 3-pin, or on the harness wiring, as there were no clear photos on the 3-pin wires on the car side. Can you clarify?

Regardless, I should take the harness wire that corresponds to the Y+G side and connect that to the red dc converter wire, correct?
 
#36 ·
Thank you everyone for documenting your efforts. I have a 2008 Outback Sport (Impreza) and thanks to the tutorial here, I am on my way to hardwiring my dashcam. I opened up my dome light cavity and found the corresponding 3-wire connector. I have a few parts on order to complete the project. The one thing I spent more time deciding was which DC step-down converter to purchase, given the numerous discussions of noise on here and on Amazon. I finally went with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XI9CZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a photo of my 3-pin connector:

There is a middle black wire = ground.
Then there is a yellow+?brown or red on one side, and a yellow+green wire on the other side.

According to some wiring diagrams I found online, the yellow/green one is the accessory wire.

In the original post, @error wrote:
"The mirror harness has a corresponding 3-pin connector on the car side, and 7-pin connector on the mirror side. Harness wires are all black, +12V acc is black with gray stripe, and ground is in the middle."

It's unclear if the black+gray wire is on the car side wiring 3-pin, or on the harness wiring, as there were no clear photos on the 3-pin wires on the car side. Can you clarify?

Regardless, I should take the harness wire that corresponds to the Y+G side and connect that to the red dc converter wire, correct?
Correct. The red wire goes to +12V ACC, black to ground.

BTW, it seems that the wire colours are different on Impreza. OB 2014 Convenience Package colours: "Yellow with blue stripe - +12V accessory power (connected to the 7.5A fuse #6 in the fuse box under the dash), Black - ground, Black with green stripe - +12V backup lights." As others have said, upper trims may have a different roof harness.
 
#37 ·
Thanks. I received everything today and put it together tonight, and so far it works great! (wasn't paying attention and almost cut the WRONG end of the mirror harness--that would have been very silly!)

I took some more pictures for other folks of the mirror harness:



On this harness it has 2 black wires and 1 black/white wire, which lines up with the +12v accessory.

Rather than soldering and shrink wrapping, I used 2 twist on wire connectors. Not nearly as sturdy, of course, maybe I'll solder and wrap later.

My dc converter was a bit larger but well built. I hooked up my USB multimeter to check the output. It put out a very steady 5V and was drawing 0.34a when connected to my dashcam. Not sure if that is all my dash cam needs, or all it could produce =/.
 
#38 ·
@error and @millermmail wondering if you can comment on a new development.

With my install, described in the previous posts, my left signal clicker is going haywire. It will click at 2-3x normal speed. The rear turn signal light will light up correspondingly, the front does not. This obviously is a safety issue!

When I disconnect the mini-USB connection to my dash cam, this issue disappears.

Any ideas?
 
#39 ·
@error and @millermmail wondering if you can comment on a new development.

With my install, described in the previous posts, my left signal clicker is going haywire. It will click at 2-3x normal speed. The rear turn signal light will light up correspondingly, the front does not. This obviously is a safety issue!

When I disconnect the mini-USB connection to my dash cam, this issue disappears.

Any ideas?
That's very bizarre. I don't have an answer but maybe these questions will help us figure something out. The only things I can think of off hand is if the wiring isn't what we all think it is, or if the camera or power-adapter is generating some strange interference that's confusing "something" (but darned if I can tell what right now).

Do you have any way to verify (test-bulb or volt-meter) the 12V wires you hooked up to are steady 12V regardless of whether your turn signals are on or you are in reverse (so the backup-lights come on) or park?

What happens if you turn on the 4-way-flashers (hazard lights)?

What model dash-cam (and what seller if it's not name-brand) did you get?

Can you plug a different USB-powered device (say a smartphone or tablet) into the USB adapter to see if it causes any strange things to happen with your turn signals?

Are you using incandescent bulbs or LED type turn signal bulbs? If LED, what kind exactly?
 
#40 ·
Thanks for the ideas. I think I figured it out. I tested the situation just a bit more today, and did some googling as well.

I initially thought I must have somehow shorted something or blown a fuse, even though the install couldn't be simpler.

Yesterday I *thought* I could correlate the effect to having the USB connected to the dashcam (it's a Vantrue N1). Maybe it was just one fluke occurrence that made me think it was related.

Today, it occurred all the time whether the cam was connected or not. I re-opened the map light compartment to see if anything had come loose, but everything was still intact. (I took the opportunity to more securely wrap the connections in electrical tape).

As you had suggested, I turned on the hazard lights and interestingly the front left light did not illuminate! After some googling, it turns out this rapid blinker effect can be a 'warning signal' that the bulb is out or failing! Certainly feels like the bulb has failed now.

So maybe it is just a very untimely coincidence that this happened.

I'll replace it and report back.
 
#41 ·
Well now I'm completely confused by what occurred.

I popped out the turn signal bulb and examined it. (I had to disconnect the car battery to do so). The bulb filament was still intact. The replacement bulb I had purchased, using the online part finders, was nowhere close to an appropriate replacement. So I put the original bulb back in and reconnected the battery.

Of course, everything worked just fine after that. The turn signal light and frequency are back to normal.

I have no good explanation for this. Maybe the computer/circuitry needed a reboot after attaching the harness?

Aside from being out a measly $6.50 for the mismatched turn signal bulbs, I'm happy with it just working now!
 
#42 ·
Yes, the fast blinking is an indicator that a light is "probably out" (basically it's an open circuit). Some cars also will "not blink" under those conditions. Typically upgrading to LEDs means you have to splice in a big resistor to make it "act" like a bulb (drawing the right current) so it flashes right, that's why I was inquiring about the type of bulb.

I have no good answer for why that's fixed now. Unplugging the battery makes no sense to me -- but I completely believe you because I've had more than my share of bizarre things including my parents' car one time where a blinker bulb seemed to go out and then was fine when I tried to double check which one to replace.

The only thing I can possibly think of is a dirty/bad connection and your "taking it apart and putting it together" caused friction on the bulb connector contacts and bulb base which scraped off whatever dirt was making it not work. If you didn't actually remove/reinstall the bulb then I don't know what to say.

Whatever, I'm glad to hear you got it all sorted out -- that's the important thing I suppose. :)
 
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