2001 timing belt, water pump, and valve cover gasket set

[jaevans]

As an FYI, I performed this maintenance over the weekend and can just add a few tips with respect to the timing belt replacement.

I had a heck of a time getting the new belt on based upon the instructions here and in a Haynes manual. First, I'd get the timing marks all lined up but couldn't get the belt over the tensioner and/or the sprocket idler. I could get it over the idler and tensioner but would always be off a tooth or two. Also, the driver side cam gear would always jerk out of position whenever I'd pull on the belt to get it installed.

What finally worked was for me to put an open end wrench on the passenger side cam gear so that it would be jammed against the body, then with a socket wrench, have my wife apply clockwise pressure on the driver side cam gear. This would tension up the top portion of the belt while loosening the bottom enough for me to slip the belt around the sprocket gear and idler on the bottom.

Once I get everything tightened to specs I gave the belt a couple of trips around the gears and all went smoothly. I was spooked a little after one rotation though - I expected the timing marks on the belt to line up again with the marks, but they didn't. What matters after installation is that the tick marks on the gears line up properly with the marks on the engine - it may take a lot of rotations before the belt marks ever line up again - they are just for installation purposes.

I'm not sure why the driver side cam gear would keep jerking out of alignment, but I suspect the cams are just at a point where they peak and want to slide down on either side of their peak. Crank rotation before and after installation exhibited this behavior so I wasn't worried.

John

[susiemk]

Originally Posted by 01outbackwgn

Hello. Does anyone know if a 2001 sohc 2.5 and a 2004 sohc 2.5 cam gear have the same timing marks on them in the same location. I currently did a engine swap from a 2001 that had an engine noise to a 2004 and I am having a problem where it is not starting. It has fuel spark compression and the timing is in the right spot but it is not starting. I have read that the gears might be different. On my 2001 I see little tabs or bumps on the back side of the gear assuming those are the tabs for the cam sensor to read off of. From the key way hole on the pulley going clockwise it goes 3 tabs 1 tab 2 tabs 1 tab. does anyone know if an 04 has them in the same spot.

1999 Cali 2.2ls, 2000, & 2001 2.2ls have the same cam & crank Triggers as 2000/older 2.5l sohc engines.

The above 2.2ls & 2000 2.5l's have different cam/crank triggers than 2003+ ej25s -

Swap the 2 triggers (Crank trigger is self explanetory & Drivers side cam gear = cam trigger, TQ for cam gear = around 59 ft-lbs, & crank gear tq is about 131 ft-lbs)& the engines can be used in any application you like.

[starkline]

FYI: On a 2000 2.5 OBW H4 Manual, a screwdriver in the inspection port didn't work for me (no holes in the fly). I needed the crank wrench or a chain wrench. Not sure if I should have expected this, but I thought I'd share if anyone else is relying on that method.

Like jaevans, I'm having one helluva time getting the new belt on, and I'm nearing the point where I think the belt I got is too short (although it has the corrrect # of teeth). I did manage to wrangle it on by aligning everything up and then installing the lower idler, but the result was that the belt was so tight that I KNEW it wasn't proper. I could've played the thing like a guitar string.

Likewise, my driver side cam gear enjoyed jerking around. I'm glad someone else observed this, as it was causing me some concern.

Going to try jaevans suggestion for getting the new belt on, but am concerned throwing a wrench on the pass. side cam gear will just loosen that bolt and leave me with nothing for my chain wrench to wrap around.

Would love suggestions, but will be trying to finish the job tomorrow, so I'm not expecting anything.

--will edit with results when done.

[kurthack]

Being that this is my first time and admittedly ignorant on some things... can you elaborate a little more on "Step 8 I used a compression tester to find TDC on cyl. 1"?

[pinion72]

Can someone give a description of where the inspection port is that's used to block the engine from turning? I'm going to be changing out the timing belt on my 2003 OBW a couple weekends from now.

Thanks!

FP

[kurthack]

Automatic or manual transmission?

[pinion72]

Automatic

[bruder]

I did the job on my 98 2.5 DOHC Manual 6 months ago. Here are some tips:

- Cam Seals: I removed the valve covers and had a friend hold the cam using a 1" open end wrench while I removed the cam sprocket bolt. (A 25mm would probably have been a better fit.)

- Used a large hex wrench to hold the flywheel through the inspection port while I torqued the cam bolt.

- Had a friend hold the drivers side cam sprockets in place (using wrenches on the bolts) while I put the timing belt on. I put the belt on first, then installed the lower idler pulley, then released the tensioner.

[cyclist]

Probably going to do my timing belt change this weekend.

As noted by someone above, is there a port insert a screwdriver to block the engine from turning on a 2003 4cyl manual tranny when removing the crank bolt?

Or does anyone have a picture of a chain wrench? I'm wondering if a bicycle chain whip would work.

Thanks.

[jbwood5]

Originally Posted by kurthack

Being that this is my first time and admittedly ignorant on some things... can you elaborate a little more on "Step 8 I used a compression tester to find TDC on cyl. 1"?

On a Subaru 2.2, 2.5 you do not want to set any of the pistons to TDC. I'm not sure what the thinking was in that step 8 from the OP.

The important thing is to set the crankshaft timing mark to the vertical position (i.e. line up the marks). You should also have the cam marks lined up, but not if the belt slipped a few cogs. Always use the crank marks lined up any time you remove the belt or tensioner.

Because this is an interference engine, placing any piston at TDC sets you up for bent valves if you turn the crank sprocket (such as trying to remove a cam sprocket nut).

Whenever the crank mark is properly lined up (approximately vertical - top), all the pistons are half way down in the cylinders and you never have to worry about bending the valves if you turn the camshafts.

I believe Subaru refers to that position as the "service" position.

I just wanted to mention that correction in the procedure. It is an excellent write up with pictures. I just R&R'd the cylinder heads on a 2.5 this past couple of weekends. There were 14 bent valves (out of 16) due to a tensioner bolt that broke and launched the tensioner right through the plastic timing cover. It is amazing that $1200 worth of damage can be caused by a defective bolt that probably costs less than $1.