2001 timing belt, water pump, and valve cover gasket set

[OutbackDEG]

Over the weekend I changed my timing belt, water pump, and valve cover gaskets. I took a few pics along the way. Here it goes . . .

Step 1 disable the ignition by pulling this plug:


like this:


Step 2 set parking brake and put vehicle in neutral




Step 3 disable fuel pump by pulling the fuse:
top left fuse in the panel under the dash



Step 4 remove spark plug wires and spark plugs




Step 5 remove washer fluid reservoir


undo front and rear pump connectors



and set on top of fuse box


Step 6 remove and inspect drive belts


Step 7 remove a/c tensioner adjuster

like this


Step 8 I used a compression tester to find TDC on cyl. 1

Step 9 remove valve cover bolts

don't forget this one


Step 10 use a small screw driver to gently crack open the valve cover


Step 11 replace spark plug tube grommets

with new ones

[OutbackDEG]

Shiny new valve cover bolt grommets


I used this valve cover gasket set from Advance Auto Parts


Step 12 onto the other side undo the oil filler neck

and the other bolt is just above the cyl. 2 spark plug tube

make sure you clean the inside of the valve cover and replace the cover gasket


Step 13 reinstall both valve covers making sure not to reinstall that one bolt on the RIGHT side (left side facing) that also doubles as a timing cover bolt.

Step 14 remove the electric fans and coolant overflow reservoir


the electrical connector is down on the bottom

and when that is done it should look like this


Step 15 block the engine from turning w/ a big screw driver (found that tip right here on subaruoutback.org)



Step 16 using a 22mm 1/2 drive socket (I broke my 3/8 breaker bar and had to go purchase a 1/2 socket) remove the crank pulley bolt

then remove the crankshaft pulley


Step 17 remove the timing cover bolts (I took a pic of the book b/c i didn't want to waste a lot of pics one for each bolt)

then remove the LEFT (right side facing) timing cover

and then the RIGHT (left side facing) timing cover, which is the bigger of the two


Step 18 line up the timing marks
LEFT

CENTER

RIGHT

[OutbackDEG]

Step 19 remove idler pulley


Step 20 remove idler gear


Step 21 remove timing belt

Step 22 remove crank sprocket


Step 23 remove timing belt tensioner


Step 24 remove water pump

like that


Step 25 install new thermostat and water outlet onto new water pump
new thermostat and gasket

thermostat in place

water outlet installed

new gasket, remember to use gasket sealant


Step 26 reinstall water pump


Step 27 compress the timing belt tensioner, I used a big c- clamp. MAKE SURE YOU DO IT SLOWLY!!!!!


Step 28 reinstall timing belt tensioner, make sure you use a strong enough pin to hold the tensioner compressed, I tried a couple different things and finally used a small hex key.


Step 29 install new timing belt, be sure to carefully line up the timing marks


Step 30 install timing idler gear and timing idler pulley, then release the tensioner

Step 31 reinstall timing belt cover and crank pulley



Step 32 reinstall a/c tensioner pulley

Step 33 reinstall drive belts

Step 34 reinstall electric fans

Step 35 refill the cooling system, make sure you've reattached any hoses removed during the process.

Step 36 reinstall spark plugs and wires

Step 37 replace the washer fluid reservoir

Step 38 plug the ignition coil back in

Step 39 Plug the fuel pump fuse back in

Step 40 Start it up and enjoy

[rockhopjohn]

Absolutely awesome. This board has needed a good thorough Timing Belt DIY, and this one is great. Thanks.

[Brucey]

Looks awesome! My only suggestion is to make it so all the pictures show up, you'd have to use more posts.

I think the current limit is 35 images per posts.

[ETC]

Nice write up.

On the tensioner [for those using this as a guide], make sure you compress it very slowly. Hex [allen] wrench works, so does the solid side of a drill bit ... don't use soft metal like copper, brass or aluminum ... it will bind up and you will have a hard time pulling it out.

[OutbackDEG]

Brucey, when I re did the post I stopped @ 20 image links per page. There aren't any pics for step 32 to 40.
ETC: I meant to make that note, edited it in.
Rockhopjohn: Thanks, since I couldn't find one to guide myself I decided it would be a valuable contribution. I also did my front and rear struts, mounts all the way around, and new front springs, but there was already enough info on those so I didn't bother taking pics.

[mopartodd]

So, thanks for the DIY...How many miles did you have on that belt?

[OutbackDEG]

Originally Posted by mopartodd

So, thanks for the DIY...How many miles did you have on that belt?

approx. 108000, it's been time to start doing a few things to my outback lately . . . while under it just the other day trying to find a mysterious ATF leak (it doesn't leak on the ground, but the fluid gets low every couple hundred miles) I discovered I have a torn cv boot on the pass side inner. In the last year I've done struts and mounts all the way around, new front springs too, pads and rotors all 4, timing belt and h2o pump, and a couple oil and transmission fluid changes, plus switch both front and rear diff to synthetic.

[Petersubaru]

Originally Posted by OutbackDEG

approx. 108000, it's been time to start doing a few things to my outback lately . . . while under it just the other day trying to find a mysterious ATF leak (it doesn't leak on the ground, but the fluid gets low every couple hundred miles) I discovered I have a torn cv boot on the pass side inner. In the last year I've done struts and mounts all the way around, new front springs too, pads and rotors all 4, timing belt and h2o pump, and a couple oil and transmission fluid changes, plus switch both front and rear diff to synthetic.

..I have to do my belts in the near future and was wondering if your idlers sounded like this in the video and if you plan on going another 100K/mi or to just shorten the timing belt usage to maybe 60K/mi.. Subaru Repair Seattle: Timing Belt Idlers Explained - Seattle Subaru Repair ..