2005-09 remote start DIY - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums

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Old 12-19-2010, 08:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2005-09 remote start DIY

Car - 2005 OBXT wagon

UltraStart 1172 UltraStart 1172
with
DEI TBXKEY (requires valet key) DEI TBXKEY (requires valet key)





Cost - less than $80

[EDIT - I ended up swapping remotes for the 4-button version pictured above from the 1280s version, hard to find)

Time - about 4-5 hrs. If I had to do it again today I'd be done in under 3 hrs.

Tools - very few.
  • Philip's head & flathead
    wire cutters
    strippers
    crimpers
    10mm wrench
    utility knife
    awl
    DMM
    solder (optional)
    elec tape
    small vampire clips (T-taps)
    lots of zip ties
  • 1
    SPDT relay SPDT relay
    & connectors (added later for anti-grind, see explanation at bottom - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED YOU DO THIS STEP)

Wiring lists - Vehicle wiring diagrams




Install was surprisingly easy. The hardest part is laying upside down on the floor to access wires. All the polarities of the triggers matched up with no addt'l relays. I got all power from my existing 4g amp cable coming thru the firewall at the steering column.

Otherwise the challenge is finding the right wires & matching them to the remote starter's wires. Most I wormed directly into the existing wires (no solder, I suck at solder). A few small ones I vampire-clipped. The antenna doubles as the programming button so I put it under the far left dash panel where it's easy to access.












The original wiring sheet from Subaru lists the security disarm wire as located in the driver's kick panel. I found it at the BIU on the gray connector, somewhere in the middle (there are two yellow/red wires for some reason).

Turns out the best way to test it was to turn the key in the doorlock, it'll ground that wire.
_____________________

I also came back & put a relay on the starter wire. I made the mistake of turning the key in the ignition while car was running & grinding the starter a few times so I decided to idiot-proof it with a starter kill. Now the key can't activate the starter once the RS has started the car. The key works as usual without the RS running.

I know what you're thinking, that you'd never grind the starter. I thought that too. Even if you don't your wife will. The starter-kill is cheap insurance & highly recommended.

To do a starter kill relay, get an SPDT relay as linked above, they're cheap. Get the wiring harness too if you don't have connectors.

Cut the wh/bl starter wire & split it between relay terminals 30 & 87a.

relay terminal 30 = engine-side of starter wire
87a = ignition cylinder starter wire
87 = RS starter wire
85 = constant 12v+ (tap into white wire at ignition cylinder)
86 = "negative while running" wire from RS, att'd to the transponder box also (or anti-grind/starter kill wire)

I put the relay about 6" away from the ignition harness for breathing room.
_________________________________

Conclusions & stuff I'd do differently...

If I knew all this in advance I'd chose DIY for sure. If I had to start from scratch w/o all the info above I'd probably pay someone the $120 or so to install, it'd be worth it.

I'd probably use a add-on remote start like the 1155 from UltraStart & just use the trunk trigger from my existing key fob - it turns out the factory fob will still unlock the doors with the car running as long as the key's not in the ignition yet, that shuts the fob down.

Otherwise this is one of the best upgrades I've done on this car, it's been a real asset. I foresee remote starters going in all my future cars...
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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FWIW you can also use a turbo timer harness like this so you don't have to cut/splice the ignition wires.

This should work on most all year turbo and non turbo Subaru Outback models.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That's a nice addition but I'd rather splice 3 wires than buy a $15 accessory, they can always be spliced back together. Good find tho.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thank you for taking the time to document, but did you know there is a PNP kit from Subaru?
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boulderguy View Post
That's a nice addition but I'd rather splice 3 wires than buy a $15 accessory, they can always be spliced back together. Good find tho.
Cool. I'm the opposite. I would rather spend the $15 (I have seen them as low as $9 on Amazon) than splice into the stock harness. Same goes for Radio installs. Nothing worse that pulling out a radio and finding a cut harness with a bunch of crimps! Gah... makes me shudder just thinking about it.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arthuruscg View Post
Thank you for taking the time to document, but did you know there is a PNP kit from Subaru?
True, it's around $300+ and like many OEM parts has limited functionality altho it does save a certain amount of work. In most cases the aftermarket stuff costs much less & tends to outperform the OEM plus has many more options. This is true with car stereo, NAV, alarms, wheels, windshield wipers, performance parts & more.

I respect that some prefer to keep their car as OEM as possible, there are good arguments for it. And in fairness this mod requires some fairly technical splicing that not everyone is comfortable with.

For me the line in the sand is permanence - is this a permanant change or something I'll need to remove when selling the car? Amps - I'm keeping those. Remote starter - that stays. Consequently there's no upside to maintaining a virgin wire structure

I had the same conversation with a guy about adding outboard relays to power the headlights in a ford van (basically a wiring upgrade that made the headlights brighter but required splicing into the headlight molex). It's not like I'd remove that & make the headlights dim again in order to sell the car so why not make it permanant?

Anyway, to each his own based on comfort level & priorities
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The only problem I see with your install is the crimp connectors. I don't know how the weather is in CO but in the MD the humidity + salt on the roads in the the air, eat the crimp connectors alive. So far I have had to redo 1 remote start and 2 stereo installs due to crimp connectors.
I prefer PNP or soldering with liquid tape installations.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Agreed that soldering is always best for those with the skill, I tend to cause small fires with soldering irons & learned many years ago it wasn't for me.

Still there's no good reason why a proper crimp connection should go bad, when done properly it's effectively a 'cold weld,' there shouldn't be any O2 in the actual connection, much less road salt under the dash

An important note about this install, I maybe cut (severed) 1 wire, that was to insert the anti-grind relay. All the others are piggyback splices, the actual wires were not severed. Once taped they're completely re-insulated from the outside elements.
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I've had a Viper remote start installed on my car for a few weeks, thanks in part to this excellent thread

I just wanted to add some info about my recent experience with the immobilizer bypass. I used the valet key in the bypass box and it has been working great until tonight, when I disconnected the battery while working on the car. When I reconnected the battery, I attempted to start the car normally via the key. The car would start, but not run. This was not due to the normal electronic throttle re-learn when the battery is disconnected, which I am familiar with and have experienced before. In this situation, the car would fire but only run for half a second before it died. I had to remove the bypass antenna from the ignition lock cylinder in order to start the car--once I did this, it fired right up and stayed running on the first try.

So, for some reason, it seems that for the first startup after the battery is disconnected, the immobilizer logic wants to see the RFID signal of one of the main keys, not the valet key, in order to start the car. I have no idea why this is the case. It also seems to me that there may be a problem with my bypass module, because it's only supposed to pass the valet key signal to the antenna when it receives a status output from the remote start unit. Perhaps my bypass module is on all the time.

Anyway, just thought I'd document my experience in case it helps someone else down the road. Love everything else about the remote start install, including the two-way remote. Thanks again for a great DIY!
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obsolete View Post
I've had a Viper remote start installed on my car for a few weeks, thanks in part to this excellent thread

I just wanted to add some info about my recent experience with the immobilizer bypass. I used the valet key in the bypass box and it has been working great until tonight, when I disconnected the battery while working on the car. When I reconnected the battery, I attempted to start the car normally via the key. The car would start, but not run. This was not due to the normal electronic throttle re-learn when the battery is disconnected, which I am familiar with and have experienced before. In this situation, the car would fire but only run for half a second before it died. I had to remove the bypass antenna from the ignition lock cylinder in order to start the car--once I did this, it fired right up and stayed running on the first try.

So, for some reason, it seems that for the first startup after the battery is disconnected, the immobilizer logic wants to see the RFID signal of one of the main keys, not the valet key, in order to start the car. I have no idea why this is the case. It also seems to me that there may be a problem with my bypass module, because it's only supposed to pass the valet key signal to the antenna when it receives a status output from the remote start unit. Perhaps my bypass module is on all the time.

Anyway, just thought I'd document my experience in case it helps someone else down the road. Love everything else about the remote start install, including the two-way remote. Thanks again for a great DIY!
Interesting. I've done plenty of car audio installs over the years for myself or friends but I've never attempted a remote start.

I do have some buddy's that own an car audio install shop and might run some ideas by them since the 2005 OBXT I just bought has the immobilizer. It's also manual so I'm going to have to check on a clutch bypass and also a module to not start if it detects the car in gear.
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