Subaru Outback Forums banner

DIY A/C Air Conditioning leak refrigerant repair for $5 or less/15 minutes or less

252K views 197 replies 68 participants last post by  Lucas123 
#1 ·
Want to repair your A/C for $2 and in 15 minutes?
(not including refrigerant costs - another $30).

I have repaired many Subaru A/C systems from the 80's to the 2000's and thought I would post a thread since I did another one last night and snapped a couple pictures of how easy and cheap it *can* be. I'm not saying this is the perfect solution, I realize folks will complain, I'm trying to get information out there that is helpful to DIY folks that want to fix A/C cheap - it is possible, you don't have to like doing it this way and can continue onto more expensive methods, that's fine.

This was on a 2002 OBW H6 but the procedure is nearly identical to Subaru's even going back to the old R12 systems in the 80's.

I "repaired" this one in 13 minutes, including time for taking pictures.

This isn't a "perfect" repair, some won't like it, and might not be up to NASA standards (I can talk about that too as there are birds flying around now with code i wrote on them), but it's a perfectly acceptable repair and fixes about 75% of the Subaru A/C's I find that don't work. It's a great fit to get working A/C back for the remaining life of the vehicle often times.

I have found that Subaru A/C systems rarely have failures except at leaking orings which are REALLY insanely cheap. So replacing those orings often fixes a high percentage of vehicles.

The two orings most likely to fail are the ones on the compressor. I suppose they are subjected to higher temp gradients, pressures, and engine vibration since they're on top the engine. What I know for certain is that when they are removed they are very, very hard, like plastic instead of pliable rubber oring compound.

So - you can usually fix most leaks with those two orings on the compressor. They are usually common sizes you fit by matching up with one of those large A/C oring kits at any auto parts stores for a few dollars. I haven't had a problem matching up 80's, 90's, 2000's compressor side orings.

The smaller ones located in other areas are sometimes harder to match - but also less likely to fail.
 
See less See more
#158 ·
loaner pump only got down to -20psi or so, still, when I closed the valves and shut-off the pump, got to atmo pressure in less than 15 seconds or so!

taking it to a pro. Wife is in a hurry for her a/c.

but, I'd like to point out, the gauges and pump basically told me NOT to try to charge the system so, I saved 2 cans of refrigerant.
 
#159 ·
Once a year I have the whole system evacuated, vacuumed out and re-charged. Just had it done this past Friday. For $ 50.00 it's worth farming it out. Most quick lube stations have a device just for that. It takes about half an hour to 45 minutes for the whole cycle. Also, it's important to run a/c even in winter (or in front windshield defogging mode) at least once a week - it keeps all seals lubricated. The amount of required 134a refrigerant is shown on the front bumper sub-frame on a label, right next to the radiator cap, as seen on Cardoc's picture above (large white sticker).
 
#160 ·
$220 to find out the o-rings I put in are bad again. I'm glad it wasn't a hole in one of the coils but, wish I didn't have to pay someone to re-do my work. The guy said he has seen cheap o-ring last a little as 8 months.

what is the best type or brand of o-ring? he said he gets his 'from his supplier'.
 
#161 ·
this is for those who are putting parts store cans of recharge stuff in their cars, the recharge ones that have "stop leak" stuff is BAD, it gums up your compressor and kills them fast.

Best way for a good system for the long-haul, is take it to a pro with the right equipment to evac, put new orings/seals in, and recharge, they recharge it without the gumming up stuff…..
 
#165 ·
Ac recharge successful !!

I went to NAPA today, and got the beefy Green O-Rings for my AC recharge project. Wow, what a major success. The rings fit nicely, and the system charged up with no leaks. Cold is holding strong after several test drives. Thanks again! Also, thanks to this guy:

https://youtu.be/iC3jiCfxIU4?list=FL1jeZakywh67vswbtwOPCRg
 
#166 ·
If you put A/C on at least once a week, regardless of the outside temps, you will keep the o-rings "lubricated" and there would be no need for replacements.

Everyone should get into this habit...always worked for me over many years... never had to replace o-rings on any of my cars with a/c....
 
#170 ·
Not to hi jack the thread and I am new here, admittedly I am still exploring all that this site has to offer, do you have a list of the most common failures on Subarus?




I work on all makes and models and see a fair amount of Subarus in my shop because of where I live. Most vehicles have their weakpoints like 4.0 Jeeps and cracked exhaust manifolds or heads on the # 3 cylinder.
 
#171 ·
Not to hi jack the thread and I am new here, admittedly I am still exploring all that this site has to offer, do you have a list of the most common failures on Subarus?
Post this in a new post in the maintenance section of the forum - this thread is a DIY HVAC guide. Posting here derails the topic and confuses things. If you want replies from certain people - PM them a link to a thread.
 
#172 ·
Thanks for the great info. After having the engine rebuilt got the 99 OB back with no air. Pushing in the Shrader vavle showed no pressure in the system at all. Stopped at Auto Zone and bought the green O-Ring kit for AC rebuild, Shrader kit, and a 20 oz. can of freon with a gauge. Replacing the two main O rings took 5 minutes. I was unable to use the Shroeder valves though as the Outback has quite a bit larger valves. The ones I bought were the same size as tires, so will be returning them. The clutch didn't engage until I got some freon in there and then it took about 4 minutes to get the pressure up into the green. It seemed like there was still freon in the can, but I couldn't get it to take any more as the gauge pressure didn't change. Checked the air vents though and got nice cold air. Headed for 90 degrees today so will get a good test. After spending way too much money on the old car, I'm happy to be able to do it myself and not spend another $400.
 
#174 ·
Would having my system evacuated, vacuumed out and re-charged provide colder air than just adding freon to the system?

I recently replaced the O-rings and charged my system but the air isn't THAT cold. It's heaps better than it was but seems like it could be a bit colder.

Either way, thanks grossgary!
 
#175 ·
Would having my system evacuated, vacuumed out and re-charged provide colder air than just adding freon to the system?
more than likely the system is over or under charged as it stands and that's unnecessary.
have you checked the levels recently?

if everyone else has good A/C without pulling a vacuum and you don't - more than likely your system is different/compromised, rather than the vacuum being the issue.

but yeah if that gets your nowhere, you can try pulling a vacuum to see if it provides a notable improvement.
 
#178 ·
wow, this thread has staying power! I replaced the O-rings on my 2001 Legacy. Bigger one on top, smaller on on the side. Dealer just gave them to me! I found some Subaru instructions that said not to over tighten and listed the torque as 10.8lbs.
That seems really light.
 
#179 ·
Every subie owner should read this

Thanks OP, this thread is pure gold. Had an independent shop do an inspection, and they recommended new condenser and high pressure line due to leaks detected... ($1400 including labor).

A pack of o-rings, 20 oz of refrigerant, and 15 minutes later AC is ice cold. Had a speed perks to use up at Advance so cost me less than $25 :grin2:
 
#180 ·
Terrific that is exactly the information I was looking for grossgary! I was looking at it on my '96 Legacy this evening and trying to see which o-rings might be most likely to leak. I stuck a tire valve core tool in the low side port thinking it was discharged and it vomited some frothy oil onto my hand. The o-rings on the condenser I hope are ok because those bolts will snap before they come out they don't want to move.

I hadn't been using the a/c because a couple months ago it was like 90F out and the compressor started cycling on and off every second or so. So I thought maybe it was really low on refrigerant and leaking. But today it seemed to work perfectly fine but it was maybe 80F. So I'm not sure what that means if anything?

Do you ever both replacing the drier? I got one from rockauto with my brake parts since it was only like $7 because I thought mine was completely empty and I would do that along with all the o-rings.
 
#181 ·
Nah, I've never replaced a drier expect on a wrecked vehicle. But sure if you want too it's easy enough, just fittings and orings. You already have it, system will presumably already be open and you'll get two mor new orings in the system while you're at it - nothing to loose.

Pretty normal for cycling to vary dependent on ambient conditions (temp, humidity, engine condition...etc).

Those bolts should come out of the compressor, they're not that tight/structual so I'd be surprised if someone with as much experience as you couldn't get them out. Some tips on rusty fasteners:

1. Try tightening them first just a hair.

2. Knock it with a hammer.

3. YIELD, PB Blaster, Liquid wrench a few days before.

4. If it starts to turn and is really tight - stop and come back at it 30 minutes later. just move it 45 or 90 degrees and leave it alone. If they're really tight the metal starts to heat up instantaneously from all the friction - that heat compromises material properties and makes it more prone to shear. Loosen - come back later - loosen - come back later is an excellent approach for certain situations (intake manifold and exhaust manifold nuts/bolts in particular). probably not a likely winner with a/c bolts but i'd keep it in mind depending how it goes.

5. Use a 6 point socket...heck, I would have saved a lot of headaches over the years if i had just thrown away or stored separately out of the way - all my 12 point stuff!

If they do snap - the hose will slide off of them and you can just twist them out after that - the corrosive/stuck head will then be gone and they usually just twist out easily by hand then.
 
#182 ·
Ah - I forgot the fool proof method ! This works every time if you have access and it's not a huge structural fastener like axle nut or rear suspenion - I've posted pictures of this on USMB and here - you can also remove rusty fasteners with a chisel and hammer. This would most certainly work on an A/C bolt. I've posted pictures of it on USMB and here I think - when removing 40 rusty/stuck timing chain fasteners I needed a 10 second method - if it takes 3 minutes to drill each one it would have taken two hours. It worked like a charm and I've done it plenty of other times too.

On bolt head - position chisel pointing towards the inside of the bolt so you're knocking a V-shape into the bolt that is perpendicular (it's center line is perpendicular) to the edge of the bolt head. The point of the "V" points to the center of the bolt.

Then rotate the chisel so it's resting against the one side of the V that is in the "loosening" direction if you strike it.

Hit it with a hammer.

That's a great technique for removing rusty fasteners and ones that are rounded. If you have access to it and it's not something terribly tight like an axle nut - this method works every time.
 
#183 ·
Keeping your Ac in a good working condition is a good way to have comfort from the hot weather.If you are going on long tour in your car you must tune up your ac first because in long tour you are going to use it for long time and for its long working you must do your ac service regularly.This will maintain your ac in a good condition and keep its performance on its peak.
 
#186 ·
I'd guess you have some other issue as that's pretty early.

But in general any orings can degrade even if it's more common on certain vehicles, it's still an oring which can always fail.

But a 2011 is unlikely to have oring issues.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top