Generally speaking - pull the caps on the schrader valves first and look for wetness under the caps. If the system has never been worked on before they should be bone dry. If it's wet underneath then you simply need to replace the schrader valve in there. They even make a super-fancy tool (that is mighty slick) for replacing the valve without letting transfer of freon to the atmosphere or the other way around). As usual - mine were bone dry last night on this 2002 OBW H6.

Touch them with a tool and see if there's any pressure - mine was dead last night, nothign. If they're completely dead and there's no pressure then you know the system is largely devoid of freon. If there's not much pressure, then a tiny amount just vents off, not a big deal. (Like I said, I know some folks won't like that idea).

There are two A/C hoses on the compressor - each is attached by one 12 mm bolt. In the picture attached I have a socket going to the one bolt on top of a 2002 OBW H6 air conditioning compressor.

Clean off as much crud/dirt as you can around the bolt and fitting before removing it so that the dirt doesn't fall down into the hole. Compressed air, wire brushes, shop towels, spray, whatever you want/got, can use in there.

Remove that one 12 mm bolt.

Remove that bolt and off the fitting comes. Pull it out of the compressor and you'll see an oring on the end of the fitting in a groove. You will notice it is ROCK HARD and doesn't provide a good seal.

 

Now with the fitting out - pry the old oring off. Be careful those fittings are aluminum and scratch very easily. Fine dental style picks/tools are best but small screw drivers work easily as well.

I buy a generic large pack of A/C orings - they're usually green from auto parts stores and match up the old oring to a new one. Pay attention to inner diameter, out diameter, and thickness. get as close as you can - keeping in mind the old oring may be slightly deformed due to age and use. Really bad, hardened ones are often "square-ish" looking like one i pulled last night. they're not supposed to be, that's just age.

Have some appropriate lubricant to coat the new oring with and slide it onto the fitting.

Clean out the port on the a/c side that the hose fitting came out of. Compressed air is best on the ball/valve styles like this 2002 OBW H6 as the dirt can't go "into" the compressor at all - so just blow out any crud that fell down and simply wipe with a clean shop towel.

then simply slide the fitting back into the port and tigthen the 12mm bolt back up.

I did the first one in this picture in 8 minutes last night, including taking the picture.

 

Now with the fitting out - pry the old oring off. Be careful those fittings are aluminum and scratch very easily. Fine dental style picks/tools are best but small screw drivers work easily as well.

I buy a generic large pack of A/C orings - they're usually green from auto parts stores and match up the old oring to a new one. Pay attention to inner diameter, out diameter, and thickness. get as close as you can - keeping in mind the old oring may be slightly deformed due to age and use. Really bad, hardened ones are often "square-ish" looking like one i pulled last night. they're not supposed to be, that's just age.

Have some appropriate lubricant to coat the new oring with and slide it onto the fitting.

Clean out the port on the a/c side that the hose fitting came out of. Compressed air is best on the ball/valve styles like this 2002 OBW H6 as the dirt can't go "into" the compressor at all - so just blow out any crud that fell down and simply wipe with a clean shop towel.

then simply slide the fitting back into the port and tigthen the 12mm bolt back up.

I did the first one in this picture in 8 minutes last night, including taking the picture.

Want to repair your A/C for $2 and in 15 minutes?
(not including refrigerant costs - another $30).

I have repaired many Subaru A/C systems from the 80's to the 2000's and thought I would post a thread since I did another one last night and snapped a couple pictures of how easy and cheap it can be. I'm not saying this is the perfect solution, I realize folks will complain, I'm trying to get information out there that is helpful to DIY folks that want to fix A/C cheap - it is possible, you don't have to like doing it this way and can continue onto more expensive methods, that's fine.

This was on a 2002 OBW H6 but the procedure is nearly identical to Subaru's even going back to the old R12 systems in the 80's.

I "repaired" this one in 13 minutes, including time for taking pictures.

This isn't a "perfect" repair, some won't like it, and might not be up to NASA standards (I can talk about that too as there are birds flying around now with code i wrote on them), but it's a perfectly acceptable repair and fixes about 75% of the Subaru A/C's I find that don't work. It's a great fit to get working A/C back for the remaining life of the vehicle often times.

I have found that Subaru A/C systems rarely have failures except at leaking orings which are REALLY insanely cheap. So replacing those orings often fixes a high percentage of vehicles.

The two orings most likely to fail are the ones on the compressor. I suppose they are subjected to higher temp gradients, pressures, and engine vibration since they're on top the engine. What I know for certain is that when they are removed they are very, very hard, like plastic instead of pliable rubber oring compound.

So - you can usually fix most leaks with those two orings on the compressor. They are usually common sizes you fit by matching up with one of those large A/C oring kits at any auto parts stores for a few dollars. I haven't had a problem matching up 80's, 90's, 2000's compressor side orings.

The smaller ones located in other areas are sometimes harder to match - but also less likely to fail.

Hey Mate. Old post I've stumbled upon here but looking at buying an 09 3.0L Outback and the seller has this in the ad
Issues:

AirCon has a leak. Can be regassed but the gas only lasts a couple of months ($99 to regas each time). Have been quoted around $1,700 to permanently repair.

Wondering if your trick might work here of if you have an opinion on what I should do here. I'm ok to get it fixed professionally but this seems like it is worth a shot. CHeers Luke

 

This last picture shows the final bolt for the second fitting. The bolt is removed and the fitting is pulled out of the compressor showing the original black oring on the fitting.

This one took me 5 minutes to remove, replace, reinstall - for a total compressor side oring replacement time of 13 minutes and the orings probably cost maybe $1.00.

13 minutes.
2 bolts
$1.00

of course there's refrigerant costs as well - $30 or so for two cans at any auto parts stores.

That fixes most inoperative Subaru A/C systems I come across. I've done dozens and probably have close to %90 success rate doing that...maybe it's a little lower, I don't know but I don't come across too many that need anything other than orings.

 

Just did my 2001 Outback H6. There was zero refrigerant left. I changed the 2 O-rings in the compressor and sure as heck, they were brittle and hard. They broke while I was removing them. After replacing the O-rings, I recharged the system with Red Tek 12A which is an R-134 compatible. In Canada, where I live, only licensed refer shops can buy R-134. R-12A is a hydrocarbon substitute that is ozone friendly. I only used one can and the gauge was reading on the low side (about 20 psi) but I had read that the R-12A works well under-fills. The A/C was blowing cold so I saved the second can that came with the kit. Thanks so much for this very useful post!

 

interesting

what would be an good lubricant?

like, dielectric grease ?

 

good question.
ideally you use the same oil that's in the refrigerant - you can google it but PAG oil is what is often used for a/c systems these days.

Or just wipe your finger on what leaks out when you pull the fitting, out of compressors you have lying in your garage, and rub it on the oring! LOL:29:

 

Recharing: buy a hose or buy the cans that have the hose on them.

You can ask at the store, look for directions online, but recharging isn't that hard.

Attach to port (there are two ports and the hoses will only fit one port to make sure you don't screw it up and try to charge the wrong side). Turn the car on, A/C on high, coldest setting while the cans fill.

Takes a few minutes.

If it's totally deficient of refrigerant they often don't start working, kicking on until the second can is added.

*** There are other orings you can replace but they start getting smaller and not always being as close of a match on the condensers.

The ones on the condenser and elsewhere in the system usually aren't nearly as brittle, hardened, and obviously lacking like the ones on the compressor. So make your call there if the cost of refrigerant is worth it to you to give the two easy ones on the compressor a try - then go for it.

If you're a bit more anal then go for as many as are easily accessible, just follow the refirgerant lines, they'll tell you where the orings are.

I ended up replacing more than just those two last night, but i've done a ton and have lots of orings. Ironically the lower passengers side condensor one was tough to find a good match for - it wasn't perfect but close enough so far. next time I'll get a closer match and i saved the one so i can do just that.

I have another 2003 H6 OBS i have to do - so i'll be doing the exact same job again. And just as this one was repaired, my guess is this other one will be just as easily, quickly, and cheaply repaired as well!

*** Again - there are folks that will have an uproar about this thread - suggesting doing this with a vaccuum puller, gauges, and all.

Truthfully I have A/C gauges and a vacuum puller - and I don't even use them. Just not worth my time. I've repaired so many Subaru a/c's and had them last 50,000 - 100,000 miles it's just not worth my time, actually to my knowledge I haven't had one fail yet after repairing it. Of course I've sold some, haven't followed up, so surely one has probably leaked later....but so far my experience suggests I'm getting the value i need out of my vehicles and I know others can as well.

 

*** Again - there are folks that will have an uproar about this thread - suggesting doing this with a vaccuum puller, gauges, and all.

LOL! I'm one, but OTH there are millions of folks who just want the durn thing to work. They don't care if the system is contaminated, or it's only operating at 80% efficiency.

I DO think it's simply crazy to attempt to fix a system that has lost every psi of freon without replacing the receiver dryer and sucking down the system, to get out the moisture and contaminants that will wreck a compressor. If the service valve goes "psssshht!" even a little, there is no reason you can't skip the other steps. And it will maybe work.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

is there a sight glass or other DIY way to determine when enough refrig has been added?

 

Yes and no...on the older systems there are but i don't believe the newer systems have them.

In a sense - for this thread it doesn't really matter. I am referencing an "empty" system for all practical purposes. And if yours isn't "empty", it's going to be when you pull the first line to replace an oring. On an empty system two cans works perfectly. The labels on the car indicate how many ounces it holds - usually 21-25 ounces and two cans is 24 ounces or 22 ounces. So two cans is perfect for a dead system. Again I'm talking in very simple terms here, I'm not looking for highly technical approaches involving gauges and vaccuums (which i own and you can learn all about the elsewhere, that's not the purpose of this thread).

If a system is low - I would just assume replace those two orings that are always hard/brittle before I charge it up, thereby "making it empty". They fail too often not to on a system that's low. They don't "magically" get low. That's the beauty of Subaru's - this job is so darn easy that's it's worth a shot - TWO BOLTS, you don't really get much easier than this.

If you think a small charge will bring it back - then just ignore everything and try a can with the cheapy plastic gauges on it first and "refill" and "top it off".

**** It is EXTREMELY funny how many Subaru's I've fixed simply by replacing orings that cost pennies - yet i've never heard of someone having their A/C repaired for less than $400 - so very few places are actually fixing the simplest cause of A/C failures - 50 cent orings.

I am zero for one trying to this on non-Subaru's (sister in laws Ford Taurus), but I work almost exclusively on Subaru's.

 

Thanks for the info Grossgary!

Unfortunately my wife tells me the A/C isn't blowing cold yesterday and fortunately found this thread. I have a few questions/comments.

A/C compressor was cycling on/off but no cold air
Looked for any signs of an obvious leak(s) - non observed
A/C blew very cold last summer
A/C never worked on before (have all service documents from previous owner who was mother in law)
With A/C turned on I was getting a noticeable (not crazy loud) hissing sound from the dash area, seemed to be concentrated on the passenger side (wasn't my wife hissing fwiw). I'd never heard this sound from the dash area before.

When I loosened one of the two connectors that contain the o'rings last night as shown in your pics it hissed for a couple of minutes. I guess there was some refrigerant left in the system? Are a couple of minutes the total time to bleed an "almost dead" system or would a fully charged system take 5-10-15 minutes to bleed itself?

The o'rings were black and pliable and appeared in good condition but when I plugged the connector back in it felt quite loose. I'm assuming new o'rings will tighten this up?

I'm searching for some a/c o'rings locally as I type this.

Any help is appreciated :29:

 

Thanks for the info Grossgary!

Unfortunately my wife tells me the A/C isn't blowing cold yesterday and fortunately found this thread. I have a few questions/comments.

i wish we could keep this thread specific to the topic at hand so it's helpful to everyone. I guess MODs won't want to keep moving every request? if a MOD wants to feel free to move his question to a maintenance forum. start a new thread and if you want my feedback, specifically PM or let me know.

in general though your brief hissing after disconnecting is normal and the system is emptied nearly immediately, doesn't take long.

 

Out of curiosity, how effective should the H6's A/C be?

When I bought mine, it had no refrigerant whatsoever in it. Well, actually, that's not true, but it was so little that it barely registered any pressure. I added quite a bit and it apparently has no leaks because it lasted all summer and winter and still works fine this spring.

According to the gauge on the can, it's where it should be but I hear this isn't the most accurate way to measure it.

If the car sat in the sun and is hot inside, it blows fairly cool air but takes several minutes of driving to get really cold. Once it's cold, I really can't imagine it getting much cooler but I still feel that it works awfully hard to keep the car cool. If it's ~80 degrees out and I set it to 68, for instance, the fan will never go below speed 3. If I set it to 65 it will never cool it enough to go below speed 4. At 70, it will make it to speed 2 but has to go back to 3 from time to time to maintain temperature. If it were sitting in a parking lot on an 80 degree day, I really doubt it could keep the car down to less than about 70 no matter how long it was running.

Might just be the nature of a wagon, but is this pretty typical?

This is also the first car I've had where the A/C compressor places a significant load on the engine. It feels like an H4 when the A/C is on...I definitely have my foot much further down to maintain speed on hills!

 

As a diesel truck mechanic and actually having had training on repairing a/c systems this thread makes me cringe. That refrigerant in the can is very flammable, usually propane based and we won't even hook our a/c machine up to a car or big rig filled with that stuff and contaminate the 134a cylinder on the machine which is has gotten crazy expensive. Will changing a few o-rings and filling the system with that stuff in the can work, sure it will work in many cases but will it work as well as it should with a proper vacuum pulled to remove all the moister and contaminants from the receiver drier/ system ? Not even close.

 

....this thread makes me cringe.

Will changing a few o-rings and filling the system with that stuff in the can work, sure it will work in many cases but will it work as well as it should with a proper vacuum pulled to remove all the moister and contaminants from the receiver drier/ system ? Not even close.

this reminds me of the head gasket discussions. should the heads be resurfaced when doing the head gaskets? some say yes, always or you WILL have a re-fail. some say no, even some of the dealers don't do it . but the simple truth of the matter is that lots of folks have done each way with lots of success. and even a few failures.

i'm sure a subaru engineer would cringe at the ''starter bump'' method for loosening the crank sprocket bolt.

so each to his own.

 

Propane? Are you kidding? The cans I've seen say R-134a on them. They can't possibly be filled with propane. But I agree that those 1-lb cans are a bad idea. You can't imagine how many folks use only a fraction of it and the rest goes into the air. Or they pump the can into a leaky system just to make things work, for a day or two.

Propane is being used as the refrigerant in some systems, but I don't think they can yet use propane in US cars. Europe has a completely self-contained A/C system in the works that uses CO2 as the refrigerant, is electrically powered, and can be simply swapped with a new A/C module when defects occur. But of course the way things work over here, we won't see those for at least a decade.

 

Some aftermarket products ARE propane-based. Best to avoid, since no A/C shop will touch your car afterwards. Josh222 is correct.

I guess the EPA thinks that playing with propane in a compressor is safer than R134a so joe public can do it.

R134a is a restricted product in many jurisdictions, so there are many substitutes and "compatibles" on the market. You need to be qualified to buy in any real quantity, and that means training and equipment.

If you are going to do service, make sure you are at least using the REAL refrigerant.

 

This seems like a wonderful thread as my OB Wagon just decided to let all the freon seep out recently. It appears that it's leaking out of the front of the compressor behind the clutch. I brought it to my indie and he told me that's more than definitely where it was leaking from.

Do you know if it's possible to replace the O-Rings that sit behind the clutch on the face of the compressor? I would absolutely love to not have to buy a new compressor.

 

Do you know if it's possible to replace the O-Rings that sit behind the clutch on the face of the compressor? I would absolutely love to not have to buy a new compressor.

i have heard of folks replacing the bearings before "behind" the clutch, but not sure about the seal. i would find one of those threads about the compressor clutch bearings and see if it has info/pictures about that - i believe i've seen it on USMB.

that being said - compressor replacement is also a cake walk on subaru's. i think it requires removing SIX bolts! that's it. 4 hold it in place and two for the refrigerant lines (replace those orings while it's off). i can replace a Subaru a/c compressor in 30 minutes.

install a used one, and you're done.

it's REALLY easy and since subaru compressors fail so rarely - there is no demand which means they're cheap. my time is very valuable and i'm usually of the mind set to replace everything with new, but even this isn't worth my dime to buy new. a used compressor should be $25-$50 use cars-parts.com.

once you replace it - you're back to charging it which i've already documented in this thread.

 

Great write-up, and very timely. My 2003 OBW w/ 3.0 H-6 needs another a/c charge. What size o-rings did the compressor fittings take?

Thanks again!


Jim McConnell
jmcconel2001@msn.com

 

What size o-rings did the compressor fittings take?

i didn't measure or check, a large variety pack from the auto parts store has lasted me through quite a few Subaru's...i'm probably about out as of this last one i did and need to get more.

 

Good info. And I hear and understand the arguments against. However when the time comes I will do what I have to do.

In any case my 2000 OBW is still working fine and has never been recharged. Living in FL it is used all year round to some extent and I believe that it helps to keep it functioning better than just seasonal or occasional use.

 

Thanks GrossGary. I've been trying to find information about that seal but it was harder. I think I will revise my search now. But otherwise I might just replace it like you said.

Thanks!

 

I just ordered an FJC gauge set from Amazon along with a can tap valve. In the first warm spell this season the AC works, but not all that well. Vent temps are around 50' F, so it won't cut it come summer. It was marginal last summer, so it's in slow degrade mode. It cycles and seems to work fine, but at almost 11 years old and never so much as pressure checked, a partial loss is not unexpected. Hopefully topping it off is all it needs.

I talked to a few places, and they immediately want to suck it down, check for leaks, and recharge to the tune of a few hundred $$. Figured that a gauge set for $60 was well worth it.

 

Hopefully topping it off is all it needs.

it is definitely worth your time and a can to simply charge it and see what happens. i've done that quite a few times with success on systems that were low but not empty and they lasted years without leaking or draining down after that.

some folks would say get the cans with the "sealant" stuff in them, i can not comment on the efficacy of that over the long term. i generally avoid band aid fixes like that with additives and stuff for engines/trans/diffs...but i have seen this stuff used before. make your own call.

 

GG - what are the green o-rings made of? I'm thinking about getting something like this;

http://www.amazon.com/FJC-4299-Piece-Metric-O-Ring/dp/B000OCIUQK/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1333543795&sr=1-6


and just wondering if that material will work in power steering fluid as well as 134A. Basically, can they be thought of as 'universal' o-rings?

 

GG - what are the green o-rings made of? I'm thinking about getting something like this;

Amazon.com: FJC, Inc. 4299 180 Piece Large Metric O-Ring Kit: Automotive


and just wondering if that material will work in power steering fluid as well as 134A. Basically, can they be thought of as 'universal' o-rings?

i have no idea why a/c orings are always green or what material it is. i'd consider them "all purpose" if they are in mostly benign places. for instance:

if you're talking about the old style EJ power steering pump orings - i wouldn't worry about those, they just need to seal the reservoirs and would probably work. in the strange case they didn't....big deal, no real damage will happen, and it's an easy fix (that you won't likely have to do anyway).

if you were talking about engine block orings then i would lean towards OEM and not some off the wall oring, not worth the chance.

 

I have to do my 2003 H6 OB Sedan as well so I'll try and save the orings from it and measure or note the size for certain so they can be posted. I saved the ones from the 02 H6 OBW I just did...not sure if I can find them though!

Those kits are really nice and I've generally bought the assorted packs as well but then you run out of the two most common sizes and never use the smaller ones.

That boxed kit is nice though over the packs all mixed together, you can actually tell when you're running out of the common sizes you need...otherwise you don't know until you need it!

 

do you grease them?

kinda weird that they are not 'whole number' mm sizes.

 

do you grease them?

yes, i don't think you ever install orings dry, lubricate them with the same lubricant in the system you are repairing.

you asked that question earlier in this thread and i replied:

ideally you use the same oil that's in the refrigerant - you can google it but PAG oil is what is often used for a/c systems these days.

Or just wipe your finger on what leaks out when you pull the fitting, or out of compressors you have lying in your garage, and rub it on the oring! LOL:29:

kinda weird that they are not 'whole number' mm sizes.

agreed. that's just what sizes i had available - i'm sure other sizes close to that would work like 18mm x 3mm would probably suffice and those orings i used very well might not be the original size - but they fit and work and are the closest fit to what i had in hand.

those sizes came in a standard assorted container of A/C HNBR orings at Advance Auto Parts.

 

Great writeup grossgary, I'm sure it'll help a lot of people out.

To those who are poo-pooing this method, read the disclaimer at the beginning and realize that this is a DIY post .... not a "I'm a mechanic with a half a million dollars worth of equipment and a parts dept at my disposal".

We write these threads so average guys with average tools and average skill sets can keep their cars running acceptably well with a bit of ingenuity, some elbow grease and as little cash as possible.

If there are mechanics out there ... feel free to use your vast well of knowledge to write a similarly useful thread and keep the previous paragraph in mind when you do so.

I'm sure the techs at Sony would tell me never to strip my playstation down to the motherboard and heat the graphics processor with a heat gun to reflow the solder ... I did and it worked ... thanks to a DIY video someone posted.

BTW - HNBR = Hydrogenated Nitrile Butyl Rubber. Also referred to as HSN = Highly Saturated Nitrile. Basically a treated Nitrile rubber that makes it more resistant to chemicals and temperature.

 

To those who are poo-pooing this method, read the disclaimer at the beginning and realize that this is a DIY post .... not a "I'm a mechanic with a half a million dollars worth of equipment and a parts dept at my disposal".

I half agree with you. Everyone has their own definition of "safe" or "comfortable" and I have nothing against the write up personally (Though I'm in the cringing crowd). People in the know (and unfortunately many who aren't) are still going to come on here and say, "Well, that's not the best idea but sure it may work." If you think that a professional coming on and "poo-pooing" is bad...

Well, you missed the whole point of having a forum and allowing people to comment and making their own decisions. Doing this repair could fix your system or it could damage it and other shops might refuse to fix it. People need to know that too even if the risk is low. Saying it WILL damage the compressor is wrong, lets just say: "There is a chance it might damage the compressor." And yes I have experience to say that.

For everyone else where the risk is worth it, well they have nothing to lose so I see nothing wrong with it. If the worst happens and the compressor fails the fix is easy and cheap. Making a DIY post is work and some won't appreciate it. That goes with the territory. The ones that do appreciate it hopefully make the time spent worth it.

 

The vacuuming and re-charging are CRITICAL parts of this process.

You need the deep vacuum to remove moisture from the system, and also to ensure there are no leaks. If you open the system, you have guaranteed that there is lots of moisture in the system. This moisture is corrosive to the system, and if your dryer is already partially "consumed", then you may have problems.

Then the charge needs to be done by weight, not by gauge pressures. There is a relatively narrow range of proper refrigerant weights (1-2 ounces out of about 24 ounces, IIRC).

This is best left to the pros to ensure it is right.

 

Yes and no. In HVAC's for buildings absolutely. In cars it is less of an issue. There is "good idea and recommended" then there is "what will work" or "noticeable." I doubt anyone will notice a 1-2 ounce difference in how their system works. If it blows air at 40 degrees verses 43 are you really going to notice that in the car? Doubtful. All of that is speculation because I've never measured the temperature, but I can tell you it's still cold and cools the car on a hot day even if you don't use a vacuum.

Let me put it this way: Tire plugs are widely available and legal to use, I'd never use one (except in dire circumstances) because they can fail, even though their failure rate is low. Patches are documented to have very low failure rates. I would do this A/C repair and have done so with good results without using the "proper" tools. There is a low chance of a failure following this guide, even using the "can method."

By all means seek out a professional recharge if you want. It is a better idea, just know that you could do the repair yourself with minimal risk.

 

What Dave just said - it's not crucial. I've done it a ton of times - simply charge with no vacuum to get a car back on the road. So far i've NEVER seen it cause an issue and it works.

I agree to a point - I would recommend having a vacuum pulled and charging it if that's in your price range - but if it's not, then it's no big deal either. That's speaking from experience with SUBARU's. again - maybe other makes/models are different but Subaru A/C systems are robust and aren't deterred by this process. Unless someone has seen countless Subaru failures/issues then it doesn't hold any weight in this regard....so far I've seen countless success and zero failures and I do a lot of Subaru stuff.

 

Contributing my own experience with a 2001 H6, 2 years ago.

My AC died after some high-altitude driving in the Colorado Rockies, summer 2010. Low pressure. I refilled it with cans of R134a from an autoparts store (O'Reilly?) but apparently OVERfilled it, AND added too much compressor oil from the cans.

It is very difficult, if not impossible, to gauge the pressure from those store cans, even if they provide a gauge.

I took it to a shop in Boulder with a proper system, who evacuated and refilled the system for about $100.

When I got home, I bought the Harborfreight AC manifold gauge for $50 so I could refill accurately myself, in the future:
AC Gauges - Save on this AC Manifold Gauge Set

FYI, you can find AC leaks by looking for dirt around the AC system connectors. The leaked compressor oil attracts dirt. An obvious sign.

Harborfreight sells a cheapo vacuum pump to evacuate the system, for $16:
Vacuum Pump - AC Vacuum Pump w/ R134A & R12 Connectors
No experience with this. Maybe it's good enough.

A decent DIY vacuum pump costs $100-$200, so for me it made more sense to go to a shop that had an even better system.

:7:
-Jeff

 

i've been told the small compressor driven vacuum pumps can't hold a long enough vacuum to effectively boil off all the moisture in the system.

but that's probably from the same folks that would say "you can't work on A/C yourself - take it to a professional" LOL