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4th Gen Aftermarket Hitch Install - OEM Method

244K views 255 replies 73 participants last post by  bradze 
#1 ·
Here is a write up my Hidden Hitch install. I installed it using the "oem method" of removing the rear bumper. Using time stamps on my pics, it took me 22 mins to remove the bumper. Well worth it IMO. I can't imagine drilling two holes and fishing bolts would save much time.


Here it is on Amazon with free shipping.

Here are links to the installation instructions for both.


OEM Hitch
http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/59718/pdf/059718-L101SAJ000302389.pdf

Hidden Hitch
http://www.hiddenhitch.com/content/downloads/installation/N87568.pdf

Here are the torque specs:

Bumper Beam Studs - 55 ft-lbs
Hitch Mounting Bolts - 50 ft-lbs

Step One: Remove Bumper Fascia

If you have the side molding, you'll need to remove the rear fender flares first. There are 4 screws holding it on, no adhesives. They must be completely removed to allow the bumper to pop out.

First remove the taillights - there are 2 plastic retainers to remove the plastic trim, then 2 10mm screws holding the lights in place.




Remove the bulbs, I taped them up out of the way.



Then remove a total of 9 plastic retainers
3 - under center rear of bumper
2 - on each side bottom near the splash guards
1 - on each side in the fender well near the top of the bumper

Then pull straight out on each side of the bumper. It's a bit unnerving, but pull hard straight out and it will just pop right out. Work your way around one each side and remove the bumper



Step Two: Remove Bumper Beam

There is a thin foam piece on the bumper beam, it just pulls right now. It’s held in place with a couple foam tabs. Set it aside.

There are 8 nuts total holding the bumper beam on. You will need a deep socket and a long extension. Remove 3 nuts from each side, leaving one nut on each side to support the beam. Steady the bumper beam and remove the final two nuts.



Step Three: Remove Muffler Hangers and Heat Shield

There are 2 muffler hangers. I just forced them off, but I’m sure a little lube would help things. I read a good tip to use dish soap, as it will just rinse right off. Once you remove the two hangers the muffler will hang there on it’s own.

Next remove the heat shield. There are 4 10mm bolts holding it on. A swivel socket would help things immensely, but I got them with a small socket. They’re on fairly snug. You’ll need to trim the rear corner off the heat shield to allow the rear bolt to come through. It’s rather apparent once you take it off.

If I had it to do again, I’d debate getting a new gasket and remove the muffler altogether. It really gets in the way.

Sorry, no pics here.

Step Four : Install Hitch Bolts

If you crawl under the car you will see 4 rubber plugs where the bolt holes are. Remove them.

Feed two bolts each into the frame rails using the exposed openings. There are 2 different size bolt spacers. The longer one goes to the farthest away bolt (front of vehicle), as the frame rails widens towards the front of the car.

I improvised a tool to slide the bolts back. I used a yard stick and a piece of duck tape. It held the bolt well enough to slide it back, but released easily when I held the bolt from underneath.


Step Five: Install Hitch
2 people would surely make this step easier. But I’m guessing most of us do this alone ;)
I crawled under the car with the hitch and slid the hitch up over the muffler on the driver’s side and used a brick and block of wood to support that side. Then I lifted the passenger side up and slid it on the rear bolt and held it in place with a nut. Then I attached the front bolt loosely and went to the passenger side.
There is a washer that goes BETWEEN the hitch and frame on the furthest bolt (front of car). I slid the bolt up a little, and slid the washer in. Then went back to the passenger side and did the same.
DO NOT TIGHTEN ANY MORE BOLTS

Step Six: Finish up
Reinstall bumper beam and fascia in reverse order of removal. I didn’t do it in this order and installed it last. There is one plastic retainer pin that you cannot put in with the hitch tightened down.
Next tighten the hitch bolts up snug. Then reinstall the trimmed heat shield.
Torque the bumper bolts.
Reinstall the muffler hangers and enjoy :)




I haven't bought a ball mount yet. Need to take some measurements and figure out what height would be best. I'll post back once I do that.

Feel free to ask any questions.
 
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#73 · (Edited)
Well I went ahead and bought a Drawtite extension (shortest is 8" from hole-to-hole) and a locking anti-rattle hitch pin so I guess I'll see how that works. When I inserted the extension into the hitch (both Drawtite brands), the fit was so "tite", I though I was going to have to hammer it out. Don't mind a tight fit but thats almost permanent! I suppose I'll sand it a little and/or apply some grease to see if I can get it to fit in/out a little easier. And then see how much rattling I get out of it with the anti-rattle hitch pin. Will post update when that is determined....


I did look at other hitch mounted swing-open bike racks and the next best looking one was the Yakima. And then yesterday I saw a fully loaded one and it was bouncing all over the place so thats out for me. :28: I'll say this about the Thule rack, even though the locking knob is a PITA (and it does interfere on my other vehicle too just not so bad it won't work at all like on the Outback), the rack is built like the proverbial brick sh!thouse (and its quite heavy).

Updates:
1. Thule admitted that their Apex Swing bike rack won't fit every bumper style, especially the ones that are tucked under bumpers very much. They also said they'd take my design modification recommendation (re-orient locking knob so it doesn't point upward where it will hit bumpers) under advisement. Right! LOL
2. A little grease helped get the extension in/out better.
3. The softride locking hitch pin seems to tighten up slop on the extension pretty well.
4. I also bought a Roadmaster quiet hitch (U-bolt based device) and that coupled with the locking hitch pin has made the extension and bike rack very stable now. It just sticks out more than I'd like.
5. If I want to get really anal, I'll bring the extension to a welder and have them modify it to cut off a few inches length since you can't find a 2" extension shorter than 7 or 8 inches and all I really need is 3 or 4.
 
#75 ·
Extensions are really poor items to use with anything on a hitch. Just FYI.

If your set on keeping your bike rack - most racks are made in such a manner that the insert piece could easily be replace by a new piece that fits and lines up correctly by a decent welding/metal fabricator shop.
 
#74 ·
Installed Mine in About Three Hours!

After ordering my Hidden Hitch Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" from etrailer, I Installed it myself in about 3 hours, following directions that you posted here on this thread and the PDF instructional document from Subaru, as well as the instructional video here on etrailer for initial reference.

I followed yours and the Subaru directions for install which called for the removal of the bumper to access the holes to feed the nuts to screw into the hitch receiver, as opposed to drilling holes under the car. I felt it was better to take a little more time and effort rather than drilling into the frame of the car, which could eventually be susceptible to corrosion.

One of the more difficult parts on the install was feeding the nut (and fishing wire) through the car frame hole to the two forward most holes (one on each side). I eventually got it done by using duct tape attached to a broom stick, which I taped to the fishing wire and nut, and then guiding through the hole in the frame to attach to the hitch receiver. This along took me about 20-30 minutes of effort. haha

Also, I immediately put the hitch to use as I ordered the Pro Series 63124 Eclipse Black 4-Bike Hitch Mounted Bike Carrier from Amazon. This bike carrier seemed to work well with the hitch, as it slid in as expected and the bolt pin fit just fine.
 

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#77 ·
Great write-up and thread, thanks for the contributions!

I completed my installation of the U-Haul hitch receiver yesterday, not a bad job at all. I went with the bumper/muffler removal method. I wish bolts were always this easy to remove - not used to wrenching on a new car!

Just a word of advice for anyone using the Thule T2 bike rack: the vertical position won't lock into place due to the front tire tray hitting the bumper, so some trimming of the tray will be necessary.

Great first 1-on-1 time "bonding experience" with my Outback - next up will be the rear sway bar swap.





 

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#78 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad it helped.

And yeah, new cars are always fun to work on. Nice clean nuts and threads :)

I'm going to put a hitch on my '06 Forester. The good thing is that the bolts are easily accessible under the car. The bad thing is... the bolts are exposed to all the elements right under the car.. I plan on hitting them for a week with PB blaster before I do the install.
 
#79 ·
Did the Hidden Hitch install yesterday using this bumper removal DIY. The suggestion to use a yard stick with duct tape to feed the forward bolts through is pure genius.

To hold the forward spacers on the bolts (between the hitch and frame), I slipped the spacer onto the bolt and used a large piece of painter's tape to hold it to the frame while I raised the hitch up. The tape had a lot of overhang, so that once I had the hitch up and the nut partially on, I pulled the tape off and out.

I left the muffler on (just slid the rubber supports off), I don't have big hands and everything was tight, but do-able. EXCEPT, I could not get my torque wrench in a good enough position to tighten the drivers-side forward bolt. Ended up using an extension and a swivel, which I've been taught to avoid when using a torque wrench.

Worse yet, when i went over my work this morning, I saw water dripping from the gasket just ahead of the muffler with the engine ON. I guess I wiggled the muffler too much and compromised that seal. Got a new gasket from the dealer this morning, $5, will swap it out tonight.

Learn from my experience, drop the muffler all the way (buy the gasket before hand), that way you can properly tighten the hitch bolts, make your job MUCH easier and save yourself from having to potentially replace the gasket anyways.
 

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#80 ·
Worse yet, when i went over my work this morning, I saw water dripping from the gasket just ahead of the muffler with the engine ON. I guess I wiggled the muffler too much and compromised that seal. Got a new gasket from the dealer this morning, $5, will swap it out tonight.

Learn from my experience, drop the muffler all the way (buy the gasket before hand), that way you can properly tighten the hitch bolts, make your job MUCH easier and save yourself from having to potentially replace the gasket anyways.
We are picking up our 2014 Outback Premium today so I will be ordering a hitch soon. Originally I was just going to leave the muffler on, but maybe I should just drop the muffler too to make it easier.

Anyway, do you happen to have the part number for the gasket so I can make sure to pick one up?

Thanks!
 
#82 ·
"Anyway, do you happen to have the part number for the gasket so I can make sure to pick one up?"

The part I got when I described the location to the parts guy is 44011AE01A, can't verify that it's the correct gasket until after I try to install it later today, but it looks to be the right shape and size.
 
#84 ·
Mine is a 2.5i. I did use dish soap and slid off the 2 hangers next to the muffler. I did not slip off the third one further up the exhaust, closer to the middle of the car. Whatever I did, I must have damaged the gasket since I saw water dripping from it this morning when I started the car.

Is there anything special needed to remove the old gasket once the bolts are undone? This is a 1 month old car with 800 miles on it. Is the old gasket fused to the flanges, or will it just drop right out?
 
#91 ·
mgm2k2: Looks like it's too late to help, but I installed the Hidden Hitch on my '11 with the intent of using the same Thule rack. Read about the knob problem on Amazon reviews, and managed to find the slightly older Vertex Swing at a local REI. A little tougher to install, as you have to line up a single 19mm bolt through the hitch to the post of the rack. Also requires a tool vs. a hand-tight knob. But it's rock solid. I got a racheting 19mm wrench from Sears & leave it in my spare well just in case. As for the rack itself, there's no significant difference between the Apex & Vertex in terms of function. Just the install method. Very happy with it. (I did look at the Yakima version, but they were out of stock).

Excellent thread, BTW. Was very helpful in doing my hitch install, especially the info on removing the bumber. Glad I went that way rather than drilling.
 
#92 ·
Just installed the Hidden Hitch today and it went pretty well, but of course I didn't read through the whole original post and I put everything back together and couldn't get the one plastic retainer clip in the bumper underneath.

So now I am debating if I want to take the exhaust back out of the hangers and drop down the hitch a bit and put the clip in or if I should just leave it the way it is since it obviously isn't going to go anywhere.

I only installed the hitch tonight, I will probably do the wiring tomorrow. Overall it was pretty easy. Two people definitely help when trying to line up the hitch.
 
#97 ·
I just installed a curt hidden hitch the other day. I was a little apprehensive about cutting holes to fish the bolt and washer through but in the end that is the route I went.
As far as fishing the bolts through, that was easy. Curt supplied a wire that you thread onto the bolt and simply pull it through to the desired mounting hole. Literally took seconds. I used duct tape on the passenger side access hole to keep unwanted water out. If it wears out, which I'm sure it will, I'll add more. The driver side access hole I drilled is covered by the muffler heat shield.
Also, like subiesalor stated, you can use some soap in a spray bottle on the 3 most rear exhaust hangers to get them to slide off. Use a tie down strap to support the exhaust.
Total time for install was about 45 mins. The local trailer shop would have charged $75 and up. It cost me $40 in tools: 1 1/4" bi-metal hole saw with adapter, 1/2 carbide bit. I love me some new tools and the satisfaction of completing something on my own so it was a win win.
 
#99 ·
Is anyone aware if the presence of splash guards and arched wheel moldings make this an even more challenging process? I don't want to risk having those parts to come loose or not go back into place cleanly. That is my only real concern in removing the bumper for installation as opposed to drilling the frame. Thanks.
 
#102 ·
Hitch Installed

Thanks for the additional encouragement. The splash guards and arched wheel moldings came off easily but created a little more effort to get the bumper section reinstalled after the hitch was mounted. The arched wheel moldings were very easy, just remove four screws. The splash guard required removing both a fastener and a small bolt (8mm hex head that is very visible). However, the plastic clip that holds the metal nut for that bolt is held in a small, two-piece black plastic clip that did fall off on both sides during the process. The left side fell off during disassembly and fortunately we were able to locate all the parts. The right side wasn't an issue until we got everything back together only to realize it had fallen off during the re-assembly and got hung up in the fender. Again, very fortunate to peel back a little of the bumper section next to the wheel and locate the clip.
All in all, a very doable process but I think it is imperative to have another set of hands that are pretty capable. Pulling the rear body panel away from the body is indeed a little nerve racking. Helpful to have a second person with a small screwdriver loosen the tabs that are just beneath the tail lights. Everyone is right.....it just "pops" off.
Best tip in this thread is not to tighten the hitch and heat shield bolts until the bumper and rear body molding is back in place. It is helpful to be able to adjust the hitch and leave enough room to reinsert the center fastener that secures the plastic bumper facia to the body. I removed the muffler which was super easy and created plenty of space to work unimpeded and made it easy to tighten everything in place after the body panel was reinstalled.
Thanks to all who posted their experience and for the good photos of the process!
 
#103 ·
Just installed draw-tote on 2014 Outback

I just installed a Draw-tite Class III hitch on to my new 2014 Outback. I bought it from eTrailer, they priced matched + 10% an online add for ~$35 less. Then they sent me a note saying they expedited to two day delivery (no cost) but the hitch arrived the next day (wow)! Great people to deal with.

I seriously contemplated removing the bumper assembly, but in the end I decided to go the route of drilling access holes. Why, well 2 reasons, I was working alone and didn't think I could managed the entire bumper assumably with just two hands, AND, the temps dropped to the low teens in central Illinois. Although I was working in my garage it was still cold enough that I really feared cracking some of those plastic tabs.

Overall the install went really well -except for the big bump on my head when I suddenly turned and hit the bottom of the hitch -I let out a few choice words.

I removed the muffler -its a new car so everything was clean and bolts came out easily and provided lots of room. Drilling the access hole was a little more effort than I planned. I bought a 1 1/8 hole saw that I thought was intended for steel but in a matter of seconds all the teeth on the hole saw were gone. I ended up just drilling lots of little holes in a traced out circular pattern then popping out the center and filing the edges smooth. -then sprayed some undercoating on them. Also sprayed the undercoating from the inside.

I had no problem fishing the wire through the access hole from the bottom. The forward holes were really easy to fish the wire through since they are close to the access hole. Back holes took a little more time/patience but no more than a few minutes -try to straighten the fish line out as much as you can -it makes is a lot easier on the back holes.

I mounted the hitch on a old piece of 2x6 and used a couple small pieces of 2x4 to hold the hitch in place on the 2x6. Balanced the 2x6 and hitch on a floor jack, slid it under the car and raised it up to into place and bolted it in. -piece of cake

Did the wiring harness a few days earlier, that too went smoothly -but it is tricky to locate and access that connecter.
 
#104 ·
Hitch safety

I installed the class III hitch on my 4th generation Subaru outback. I used the method of drilling from the top ( from the trunk) and fishing the bolts from the top rather than drilling a hole in the chassis.

The installation was not difficult, but after I installed the hitch, I am concerned regarding the safety while towing. The hitch is bolted with just 4 bolts to the chassis. How can a hitch and the chassis support Subaru recommended 250 pounds tongue weight and tow more than 2000 pounds on 4 bolts? What about the stresses involved during towing?

What about the lateral and vertical forces acting on the whole setup?

Am I thinking too much or the best option is to weld the hitch to the chassis as many recommend? Anyone having similar concerns?
 
#105 ·
I installed the class III hitch on my 4th generation Subaru outback. I used the method of drilling from the top ( from the trunk) and fishing the bolts from the top rather than drilling a hole in the chassis.

The installation was not difficult, but after I installed the hitch, I am concerned regarding the safety while towing. The hitch is bolted with just 4 bolts to the chassis. How can a hitch and the chassis support Subaru recommended 250 pounds tongue weight and tow more than 2000 pounds on 4 bolts? What about the stresses involved during towing?

What about the lateral and vertical forces acting on the whole setup?

Am I thinking too much or the best option is to weld the hitch to the chassis as many recommend? Anyone having similar concerns?
#1 its 200lbs and even two of those bolts surpass the load capability of the car.

#2 Welding what is called soft steel to bond to hardened high strength steel can't be done very well not to mention you will create weak spots in the hardened steel and probably burn up all the weather proofing and high tech bonding materials used to hold your car together. If we were talking about an old Dodge pickup with a full frame made out of not so dissimilar metal I'd say go for it - but since we are talking about a unibody structure with high strength engineered steel vs cheap soft steel hitch no you don't weld them and create a stronger bond. If your so concerned about structure strength that should have been a deciding factor in how you installed the hitch vs enlarging holes vs removing the bumper etc.

50K on my Gen4 with plenty of various towing two different trailers one reaching into the 2000lbs range and the car and hitch are just fine. Only risk with these bolt on hitches is having your bolts rattle loose and dropping the whole kit on the ground at the worst possible moment. I've seen it happen enough times personally that I check mine once a year and used loctite to help avoid them coming loose.
 
#107 ·
Owners Manual 8-16 said:

Maximum gross tongue weight
200 lbs
Maximum gross trailer weight​
All models other than 3.6L models
2,700 lbs
(1,224 kg)​
I'll just second Subiesailors comments about welding. Bolt on is the standard for hitches. Even full size pickups use bolt on hitches. I think you are overthinking it. After all, there is only ONE pin on your bar, so it will shear before 4 bolts do. As for the tongue weight, as mentioned, one bolt can easily hold 200lbs.
 
#108 ·
Success!

Thanks to everyone on this thread for giving me all the great information. I installed my hitch this weekend using the OEM method and it worked out great!

I tried to order the hitch from eTrailer since they give out such good information but they were badly back-ordered and I had to go to another vendor so I could do this before Christmas. I ordered the HiddenHitch (87568) but they substituted the Draw-Tite (75673) so as not to delay delivery. All of these hitches come from Cequent Corp which also makes an identical Reese version (44631). The instructions from Cequent list all three part numbers.

First of all, I followed vr4Legacy's instructions (post #1)and used Subaru's OEM install sheet cause I just cannot bring myself to cut into my brand new 2014 Outback's metal work. I find two things worth mentioning:
1. The push pin in the wheel well is difficult to locate. It it right at the top edge of the bumper facia.
2. Pulling the bumpber facia off required alot more effort than I had anticipated. Not more effort than I was capable of but so much I was somewhat afraid that I would snap the plastic.

Here is my Outback with everything removed. Note I did not completely remove the tail lights but just hung them from the hatch struts.


Next, I followed Verdant's advice (post #70)and did not trim the heat shield, rather, I used a hole saw and just poked a hole in it. It looks nicer and has no sharp edges.

Here is the heat shield with just a little hole.


Since I am not a muscle man and did not have help, I followed recetin's advice (post #103) and mounted the hitch on my floor jack and raised it up. I think this made it much easier than two guys lifting the hitch by hand. I was able to incrementally adjust the height, roll back and forth and left and right.

Here is the floor jack setup I employed.


Snapping the bumper facia back on was really easy. As someone else in this thread mentioned, do not tighten the hitch bolts right away. Leave them loose until all the facia is back in place then tighten it all up. This also allows you to make sure you can get the heat shield bolts in place since the alignment can cover those holes.

I'm no gearhead but I am relatively handy and I found installing this hitch using the OEM method very easy. Certainly, I had lots of help by reading this thread.

Again, thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread!!!!
 

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#110 ·
Just installed my hitch today! Came out great! I did unfortunately break/crack two of the bumper tabs as I slightly misunderstood how I should be pulling on the bumper when removing it, but a little krazy glue and they were good as new (if I had paid a little more attention, would've avoided it). I took a few pictures that Vr4Legacy had left out if people would like me to add and post. Shows the locations of a few of the plastic pins, muffler hangers etc... I also removed the two muffler hangers plus one more further forward that allowed the exhaust to completely drop and move out of the way. I used dish soap, worked like a charm. Mid New England winter and a dirty subie made for a dirty project! So glad to have it installed! Thanks for this DIY. :29:
 
#111 ·
^ Post up the pics M-John, the more the merrier. Might help someone in the future that can't quite figure something out.
 
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