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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern California
Car: 2011 Subie 3.6R Limited 2013 Cmax e=nergi PHEV
Posts: 727
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I changed my rear differential fluid yesterday at 35K miles and decided to post this to help anyone else do this super easy DIY. I will be changing it on a shorter interval going forward. The old oil was silvery black and there was quite a bit of metal stuck to the drain plug magnet.
Tools and oil: Breaker Bar Torque Wrench (36lb/ft is what I used) 13mm Hex Bit (for the fill and drain plugs) Measured Receptacle (if you want to know how much fluid was in the case) Gloves and Rag 75w90 GL-5 0.8 Quart (25.6 oz) Loosen the fill plug first or the drain plug may seize. Place receptacle below drain hole while loosening drain plug. Clean off magnet in the drain plug. My oil was not honey colored. Seemed about .8 quart on the nose. Replace the Drain Plug and torque at 36lb/ft. You can get 25.6 oz out of the quart bottle with a couple of squeezes. It is not necessary for this job, but there are hand pumps and tubes available at the auto parts stores to make it easier. Fill her up to the bottom of the fill plug. Replace the fill plug and your done. Money saved and confidence in a job done right.
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2011 3.6R Limited Curt 2" Hitch, Garmin ecoRoute HD OBDII, Weathertechs, Fumoto Valve, 19mm RSB I-pod controller, Exhaust Tips, RSBP, F&RCBM 2013 Cmax e=nergi phev |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: behind the Krell Metal door
Car: 03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Posts: 4,405
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cool - interesting how the newer diffs look.
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Time Flies Like an Arrow, Fruit Flies Like a Banana! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern California
Car: 2011 Subie 3.6R Limited 2013 Cmax e=nergi PHEV
Posts: 727
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Changed my Front Differential fluid at 35K yesterday and decided to post this simple DIY fluid change and washer replacement.
Washer and Fluid: New Black Washer for Drain Plug (Part #803926090) 1.5 quart (48 oz) 75w90 GL-5 Gear Oil Tools Needed: Breaker Bar Torque Wrench (51.6lb/Ft) T-70 Torx (Star) Bit Measured Receptacle (if you want to know how much fluid was in the case) Rag and Gloves Receptacle under plug before loosening with breaker bar. Loosen then remove quickly by hand. Drain out 1.5 quarts of old oil (mine is as filthy as my rear diff fluid was -chocolate not honey colored.) Don't forget to put the new black washer on the drain plug. Torque/tighten the drain plug to 51.6 lb/ft. 1.5 quarts and an old washer. Fill the Front Differential case with 1.5 quarts or 75w90 oil via the front transfer dipstick tube. Try not to spill like a little like I did. Check the plug. Check the dipstick. Take it for a quick spin. Check the level and the plug again. Done with money saved and confidence in a job done right. I am going on the 15k interval after that mess poured out. Maybe unneccessary, but it is cheap and easy preventative maintenance.
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2011 3.6R Limited Curt 2" Hitch, Garmin ecoRoute HD OBDII, Weathertechs, Fumoto Valve, 19mm RSB I-pod controller, Exhaust Tips, RSBP, F&RCBM 2013 Cmax e=nergi phev |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern California
Car: 2011 Subie 3.6R Limited 2013 Cmax e=nergi PHEV
Posts: 727
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Sorry for the blurry pics.
Local subie mechanic charges $45-50 each for the Front and Rear (not bad, but not synthetic gear oil either). Dealership combines the front with the 4 quart ATF drain and fill service for $180. Dealer charges $55 for the rear.
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2011 3.6R Limited Curt 2" Hitch, Garmin ecoRoute HD OBDII, Weathertechs, Fumoto Valve, 19mm RSB I-pod controller, Exhaust Tips, RSBP, F&RCBM 2013 Cmax e=nergi phev |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: ID, MT, ND, I'm a transient
Car: 2004 Outback Wagon, Mystic Blue Pearl
Posts: 4,883
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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So I merged your two DIY threads into the first one which had been moved to the DIY sub-forum. Thanks for a great DIY.
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I'm not retarded, I just don't proofread my posts |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Pacific NW
Car: 13 Outback 2.5 Premium CVT
Posts: 163
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Nice write up and the pics should put first timers mind at ease, we that grew up doing this stuff with Dad too often forget that many didn't get that opportunity.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern California
Car: 2011 Subie 3.6R Limited 2013 Cmax e=nergi PHEV
Posts: 727
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I was lucky enough to have a few friends who worked on cars. Their knowledge gave me the confidence to do the easy things like fluids, shocks, brakes, 02 sensors, and fuel pumps. Car shows are pretty good, YOU Tube has a wealth of DIY videos, and sites like this one give first timers like me on this OB a bit of confidence. I only have the confidence to do the easy routine maintenance. I helped a friend replace some heads once, and I don't want to ever have to do that with the H6.
Thanks for combining the threads RockHopJohn. I didn't want to try to post it all at once for fear of losing it. I closed my window when I was almost done with the first thread and had to start over.
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2011 3.6R Limited Curt 2" Hitch, Garmin ecoRoute HD OBDII, Weathertechs, Fumoto Valve, 19mm RSB I-pod controller, Exhaust Tips, RSBP, F&RCBM 2013 Cmax e=nergi phev |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Birmingham, AL
Car: 2011 OB 2.5i limited
Posts: 98
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Forgive the Soob noob question... Are the front and rear differentials in the 2.5i the same as the 3.6R? I suspect they are, but don't want to assume and screw something up.
Great write-up, btw. Thanks!
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I am mws4ua and I approved this message. 2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 2006 Lexus RX330 |
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