DIY: Gen 4 Brake Fluid Flush Bleed One Person with Wheels on Vehicle

[AltaBrig]

I did my other fluids at 35K, so I figured I would do the brake fluid as well post some pics of this easy fluid change. My pads are at 80% so they have some miles left on them before the OB gets new pads.

This change is super easy. You don't even need to take of the wheels.
All you need is one of the autozone OEM DIY bleeder kits for $8.49 or make your own out of a jar with a lid and tubing to catch the old brake fluid and prevent air from entering the lines.

Tools:
10mm wrench
siphon tube/pump (for the master cylinder reservoir fluid)

Material:
Dot 3 or 4 Brake Fluid (I suggest 32 ounces)
rags
gloves
protective glasses
Brake Cleaner, Pressure Wash, or Simple Green (depending on the grime factor)
Receptacle for old Brake Fluid



You don't want the old fluid in the MC to be pumped through the brake lines. It will take too long.

First, remove the little filter at the top of the master cylinder reservoir before removing the fluid.


Now remove the old brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.

Due to the plastic frame in the reservoir, I could not fit a Turkey baster down past about 1/3 from the cap.

So I used some tubing and a hand pump. Aquarium airline tubing would work fine with gravity to drain the reservoir.

Make sure you don't get any fluid on your paint. If you do, get it off fast.

If you are not changing the pads and depressing the piston, you might want to mark the fluid level on your reservoir for a reference for the new fluid level when you finish bleeding/flushing the lines.



Carefully, fill up the reservoir with new fluid and put the cap back on.



The service manual said to bleed from farthest to nearest to the master cylinder. So the sequence is Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, then Left Front.

With this method you can leave the wheels on if the flush is all your doing.

Remove the rubber bleeder valve cover from the Right rear caliper.



Attach your tubing to the valve. If you have the OEM bleed tool with the magnet, attach it to a spot higher than the valve. The wheel wells surprisingly had enough ferric compound in them for the magnet to hold (but I didn't try those till my second round.) Make sure the magnet has a good grab or the little bottle of fluid will fall as it fills.



A half a turn or so counterclockwise with your 10mm wrench.



Now it is time to depress the brake pedal 5-6 times. I used half pumps, because I read somewhere that you can damage the piston. Probably B.S., the service manual tells you to just pump the brake until there are no air bubbles in the tubing/brake line.

If you want to remove all the old fluid, you will probably have to fill the little bottle 3/4 the way up twice (maybe 15 depressions total.) If you do go for the clean fluid, make sure you fill up the cylinder after the first dump of the little bottle just to be on the safe side. You do not want to run your master cylinder dry or you'll be removing it and bleeding it then starting over if it is not destroyed. The Master must have fluid in it at all times during the flush/bleed process.




Make sure there are no air bubbles in the line and your fluid is now clean.
Once done. Tighten up the valve and remove the tubing and bottle.



Remember to replace the rubber valve cover to keep the road grime and brake dust out of the bleeder.



Drain the old fluid and move to the Left Rear.

If you are changing to a different fluid or yours is old it might take a bottle and a half to get to the clean fluid.



Remember to refill the master cylinder and replace the cap after flushing each corner.



Repeat the process on the Left Rear.
Remove Cover.



Place tubing on valve.



Pump brakes several times and check to make sure no air is in the tubing. Continue until fluid is clean. Tighten valve with 10mm wrench when done.



Remove tubing and replace cover.



Drain bottle and tubing of old fluid.



Remember to fill up the master cylinder and replace the cap between the bleeding of each corner.



Repeat process at right front corner.





Refill your master, replace cap, and move to the left front corner.








Almost there.



Fill the master cylinder back to the level it was at before the flush or up the the fill line if you just installed new pads.



Check the system for leaks. If you got the air out and the brakes are not spongy, take the car out and test the brakes at low speeds. Check the system for leaks, then test it at higher speeds. The brakes should feel solid and responsive. Check the brake system once more for leaks.

The service manual has a measurement for the pedal from the steering wheel and more technical diagnostics for the ABS, but I did not use them.

If you are not comfortable working on such a critical safety component, spend the $30-$70 to have a qualified mechanic do it. Personally, I am not sure every mech or tech is going to flush all the old fluid out. This way I know I am starting clean.

Here is an easy video on the Autozone DIY bleeder:
Bleeding the Brake System - YouTube

[lxmdrgl]

Great post! I wish there were more post like this!

[Novablue]

You sir are a pro, even if you did re-use the same fill the reservoir picture.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Originally Posted by Novablue

even if you did re-use the same fill the reservoir picture.

conserving time and resources is also a trait of highly accomplished individuals.

lol!


good thread

[AltaBrig]

Originally Posted by Novablue

You sir are a pro, even if you did re-use the same fill the reservoir picture.

Thank you. I did refrain from using it 4-5 times. Forgeting would turn an easy job into a big snafu if the MC ran dry. Didn't want to cut that corner - pun intended.

I wish there was a Chilton Manual with pics for the GEN 4.