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2011 2.5i CVT and Differential Fluid Change

832K views 527 replies 130 participants last post by  phamtinkt88 
#1 · (Edited)
Intro
2011 Outback 2.5i CVT PZEV
67k Miles on original CVT and Differential fluids. Mainly highway miles with occasional towing.
I decided to take the plunge and change the fluids myself. After several hours of research, I discovered Redline CVT fluid. It is Subaru certified and for use with metal CVT belts/chains. There seems to be a lot of questions on how to change the CVT and Diff fluids so I thought I would share my experience and what I learned. I'll report back if I have any issues or learnings.

CVT Fluid Change
Fluid:
Manual says total capacity is 12.7-13.2 qts, I drained ~6.0 qts and filled with ~5.5qts.
- I used Redline Non-slip synthetic CVT fluid purchased from Amazon.com. This one: https://amzn.to/2MDyYvW
-You must check the level with the car level, idling, and in park at operating temperature. I have a 4-post lift which makes it easy to do.

Tools Required:
-10mm Hex required for fill Plug, 36.9 ft-lb.
-8mm Hex required for drain Plug, 14.8 ft-lb.

Sequence:
1. Remove fill Plug. Since my fluid was warm and not hot, some fluid drained after removing.
2. Remove drain Plug and drain remaining fluid.
3. Re-install drain plug and torque to 14.8 ft-lb.
4. Fill via fill hole until fluid runs out.
5. Install fill Plug and tighten.
6. Start and idle vehicle to warm fluid. Cycle transmission through all positions.
7. Check fluid level and fill if required. Torque Fill plug to 36.9 ft-lb.

Front Diff Fluid Change
Fluid:
-Manual says capacity is 1.4-1.6 qts, I drained ~1.5 qts and filled with the same amount.
-Fill via vent hose accessible from engine compartment.
-I used Redline 75w-90 synthetic gear oil purchased from Amazon.com. This one: https://amzn.to/2HZTVOf

Tools Required:
-T70 Torx for Drain Plug, 51.6 ft-lb.
- 14mm socket for fluid check plug, 25.8 ft-lb.

Sequence:
1. Remove vent hose prior to draining.
2. Remove drain plug and drain fluid.
3. Remove fluid check plug.
4. Clean drain plug of any metal.
5. Re-install drain plug and torque to 51.6 ft-lb.
6. Fill with 1.5 qts till check fill overflows.
6. Re-install fluid check plug and torque to 25.8 ft-lb.
7. Re-install vent hose.

Rear Diff Fluid Change
Fluid:
-Manual says capacity is 0.8 qts, I drained ~0.75 qts and filled about the same amount.
-I used Redline 75w-90 synthetic gear oil purchased from Amazon.com. This one: https://amzn.to/2HZTVOf

Tools Required:
-13mm Square for Fill Plug, 36.1 ft-lb.
-13mm Square for Drain Plug, 36.1 ft-lb.
-I used a 1/2" drive ratchet but a 13mm socket is on order.

Sequence:
1. Remove fill plug.
2. Remove drain plug and drain fluid.
3. Clean drain plug of any metal.
4. Re-install drain plug and torque to 36.1 ft-lb.
5. Fill via fill hole until fluid runs out.
6. Install fill plug and torque to 36.1 ft-lb.

CVT Fluids:
Redline - http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=128&pcid=9
Valvoline - http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/automatic-transmission-fluid/136
Eneos - http://www.eneos.us/product/7
Subaru - http://www.subarupartswebsite.com/OEMParts/subaru-153/S/SOA868V9245.html

Reference Pictures:
 

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#3 ·
Great write up. Was wondering about doing this on my wife's '10 Outback with the CVT.

Quick question, for the front diff change. Is there a bolt to remove after you take that hose off or just straight through the connector that the hose was on? What did you use to fill with regards to funnel, etc?
 
#9 ·
No bolt, just a plastic plug with a hose attached. It pulls right off with a slight tug; like pulling the engine dip stick out. I used a small funnel with a long spout which is flexible. It worked great and i was able to pour straight out of the redline bottles.

Next time I do it, I will have hex sockets and a fluid pump to fill the CVT. I had to use an old gear oil bottle and was only able to fill using 1/2 of the bottle at a time.

Also, you must check the CVT fluid level on level ground while the car is idling at normal operating temp. I had to put ~1qt more after I ran the car for a while.
 

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#8 ·
Speaking of CVTs, aren't all some belt type or another. Subaru uses metal and Nissan uses composite. Not sure about the others.

Maybe chain is not the "right" word?


http://pictures.dealer.com/s/subaruofkeenesne/0145/7bd63a564046387201849dafd3aa952d.jpg

I think the big issue is whether the belt/chain is metal or composite.

The redline fluid specifically mentions "metal" and is subaru certified. I am comfortable using it. We'll see how the long term goes. I will add the specs when I find the label.

Thanks all for the comments.
 
#13 ·
Intro
CVT Fluid Change
Fluid:
Manual says total capacity is 12.7-13.2 qts, I drained ~6.0 qts and filled with ~5.5qts.

Reference Pictures:
so that means that you didn't change but less than half of the fluid ... Maybe better to leave it to the dealer to get the Subaru fluid and either change it all or leave it alone? Aren't you concerned to mix 2 different fluids? Next time you might end up with 3 ... What will they say to me when i go for a warranty repair?
Thank you for sharing everything and the pics are awesome!
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the feedback.

The CVT has a torque converter just like any other automatic slushbox. So you can't get all the fluid out unless you do a re-circulation drain. I plan to drain and refill every 30k from this point forward.

No, I'm not really concerned, my car is out of warranty anyway. I realize I maybe heading into undocumented territory. I'd rather change it than let ride for the lifetime of the vehicle which i hope to be >250k miles.

I'm not suggesting you change it. This guide is help others if they do decide to change their own.
 
#18 ·
Great write up! Looks like we drive about the same.33,000 a year all highway. My wife has 41K on her 2012. Our tires still have 8-9/32nds and brakes look new. Did you have to do anything other than oil and filters @ 67K? It seems to get better with every mile. The engine is smooth as glass and I have been using Amsoil Long Life from 7,500 and that helps. We never used a drop of oil.
 
#32 ·
NP, I hope this thread helps others!

A slight MPG improvement...maybe 1/2 MPG. The "whirring" sound of the the idling CVT is almost non-existent now. The shifts in manual mode seem a little snappier and I do notice the low end groan that I sometimes had when pulling out onto a highway from hilly start.
 
#34 ·
My diff fluid was pretty dark and the rear drain plug was full of trash. The cvt fluid was darker than what I put in but I did not put subaru fluid back in. I had double the mileage you have too.

Regardless, I don't think color alone is the soul indicator of fluid health.
I just changed my wife's forester fluids at 40k. They were dark, almost black.

I feel better that they are changed and are at the proper level.
 
#35 ·
Awesome writeup. This is going to be very helpful for me.

I just want to make one minor correction:
Whenever faced with a drain plug AND a fill plug, always remove the fill plug first. That way, if the fill plug is frozen stuck for some reason, you can still drive the vehicle. I had a friend (yeah, I friend... right, not me...) who drained his rear diff, and then snapped the end of his socket wrench trying to pry the fill plug off with a breaker bar. Then I (I mean, my friend) had to borrow a ride from the neighbor all the way to the store to get a new socket wrench.
 
#38 ·
I changed the front/rear diff fluid this weekend, thanks to this thread. Thanks to the OP and all other contributors.



2x on this! I also had a friend who opened the drain plug first and couldn't open the fill plug. He wasn't able to get it loose at all and had to have his car towed.
 
#40 ·
I had to call my local dealership to ask an unrelated question, so for kicks I asked what it would cost to get a drain and re-fill on my 2011 Limited... He said a couple of things that were pretty interesting.

First, he said, "That transmission doesn't have a drain plug or a fill plug." OK, so I know that draining the way described in this thread isn't the full drain/refill, but we know for a FACT that the thing has a drain and fill plug.

During the discussion he also said, he's "seen people mix CVT fluids with disastrous results," but he wouldn't elaborate. I tend not to believe him.

The most enlightening thing he said was that a full drain/re-fill would cost about $75 in labor, plus FORTY DOLLARS PER QUART of Subaru CVT fluid!!! He said it's about 12 quarts, so the total cost would be about $555!!!
 
#42 ·
My dealer gave me a similar speech.. Though admitted that there IS a drain and fill plugs.. even warned me to be careful not to loosen the drain plug in error thinking it was the oil drain plug.. But the tech and the service manager both gave me the "no need to ever change the fluid" and that they'll only top off the diff fluid at 30/60k services..

I explained to them, I got over 30k on her and about 7k of it is towing and about 4k of it is towing motorcycles thru West Virginia and North Carolina high county in late July weather.. I would think that qualifies a bit over "normal driving conditions". It all boils down to I'd rather pay up a couple hundred for what they may think is OCD preventative maintenance under warranty now than to wait until it's out of warranty and have to drop 8k in a new drivetrain because I somehow drove outside of normal driving specs.

I figure I'll give it to the 60k service before dealing with the CVT fluids.. But I'm thinking I'll take the plunge on the diff fluids sooner than later.
 
#43 ·
My dealership said Subaru had no training / instructions for CVT

Thanks for the write up.

I have 67K on my 2011 Outback as well.

My dealership told me that Subaru had not issued any training / instructions on changing the CVT fluid. They did not say that they couldn't do it or that there weren't any drain/fill plugs, they just said they didn't know how. They did say they looked into it for one customer and they could only get the Subaru fluid in 5 gallon buckets and that it got cost prohibitive.
 
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