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#341 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Tn.
Car: 2011 Prem. 2.5i, 1999 Outback
Posts: 227
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
I got one from a dealer,( I think around $35). I did not use it, just took it back to dealer. I only changed out ATF several times, (about 4), and tranny works fine. This Outback has 175,000 miles on it. |
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#342 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: IL
Car: 2007 OB 2.5i
Posts: 3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I bought a 2007 OB 2.5i automatic with about 90k miles a few months ago. It now has about 100k mi and has developed a clunk when shifting into third when cold. I am hoping ATF flush will make all the bad stuff go away.
I will be doing the technique where the line delivering ATF to the radiator is disconnected. There are two versions of this technique illustrated in this thread and elsewhere on the net. One version does not drain the pan, the other does. What is the science on this? Does the ATF in the pan get cycled and changed naturally with the complete flush technique? It seems like it would have to. Is there another reason to remove drain plug? I will be changing the spin-on filter. |
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#343 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 6
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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If I understand the flow right, when you add fluid it goes into the pan. I drained just over 4 quarts from it -- so if you don't drain/refill it to start it with fresh fluid, it will take a lot more fluid to flush it clean. Pulling the plug is the easy part anyway, so I don't see any reason not to do it.
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#344 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: IL
Car: 2007 OB 2.5i
Posts: 3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I could not find a fluid flow diagram for this or any other Subaru. I did find two diagrams for other cars and both showed the flow from pan to cooler. If this is the case with my car I would not want to drain and fill pan before I start engine because the new fluid would be the first to go into my discard container.
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#345 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Nepean ON Canada
Car: 07 OBW 2.5i Touring (SE) D-4AT
Posts: 6,920
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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I don't think the flow is from the pan to the cooler. In a thread about the ATF filter, I tried to better identify the flow in order to determine the role, and impact, of the filter.
Earlier service manuals had some hydraulic schematics which were somewhat helpful. There's attachments in this post: hydraulic circuit. |
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#347 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: IL
Car: 2007 OB 2.5i
Posts: 3
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Flushed the ATF in my 2007 2.5i OB yesterday. The line connected to passenger side of radiator is the return Line. This line is rubber for the first couple feet exiting the radiator and metal the rest of the way bact to the xmission. I broke the connection at metal/rubber joint. Simple hose clamp. This way I could easily reroute the rubber line into my collection container.
Procedure: Drain pan, Replace spin-on filter, Fill pan, Disconnect rubber hose returning from radiator and reroute to collection container (see above), Start engine - shift through all gears w brake on - 30 seconds max - stop engine, Add ATF until full, Discard old collected ATF, Repeat start engine/fill sequence until 12 qts used. The xmission only holds 9.7 qts. I wanted to make sure I got the whole mix as clean as possible. I did not measure anything. Just made sure I didn't run engine too long. My original symptoms were rough shifting when engine cold, especially going into 3rd. Another symptom which I did not attribute the the xmission was no response and downright funk starting from a stop. Starting with the very first test drive and my driving today all symptoms are GONE! Even taking off from a stop. I may just keep this thing. I will post if anything changes. |
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#348 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Car: 2013 Outback 2.5i Premium
Posts: 6
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I believe your assessment of our President puts you in the minority of Subaru drivers, at least in my neck of the woods. I'm on board with you though brother!
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#349 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Displaced to Chicago.
Car: 2003 2.5 4EAT with AWP.
Posts: 6,020
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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...I don't think this post is in the correct thread.
__________________
2003 Outback: "Kaylee". 124,000 and counting. Mods: GE Nighthawk low beams, HIR1 9011 high beam upgrade, Nokya 25k yellow fog lights, Fumoto valve, 04 Forester XT shift knob. Basics: G-Oil Bio-based Advanced Full Synthetic 5w30, Purolater oil filter, STP air filter, Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF, Valvoline Durablend 80w90, Michelin Primacy MXV4. Also: More rust and parking lot scars than I care to think about. |
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#350 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lyons, CO
Car: 2005 XT Limited
Posts: 614
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Just used the directions for the ATF flush using the return line from the cooler for my 2005 XT (5EAT). I put my comments on that thread, but I think it will be useful for most:
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...sh-197248.html One comment on whether to drain the pan: after thinking about it, I realize I should have drained the pan. Since it holds 4 qts, when you empty the first two, you are then adding two new quarts to two old quarts. Probably better to drain, and start with 4 fresh in there. |
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