Step 3: While its draining you should notice a small oil filter just above and ahead of the drain plug. Unscrew the filter to drain some extra fluid.

The bolt uses the exact same washer the engine oil drain bolt uses. I also picked up a bunch of these at the dealer. Its not necessary to change it every time.

 

Step 4: Once the oil is drained (You'll never get every drip out, so don't sweat it.)

Close it up then dab your finger in the Transmission Fluid and rub it around the rubber gasket on the filter. Put the filter back on the transmission (fluid on the rubber helps to make a seal)

It's an identical process to changing the engine oil.

I've also heard of people filling the oil filter which I would agree with except the oil filter is sideways and all it ever accomplishes with me is making a big mess. The oil will make its way into the filter. Some of the other years cars have their filter mounted in the fender vertical. This wouldn't be nearly a mess.

Its very important that you don't start the car during this time. Right now the transmission should have a little over half the recommended amount of fluid, so if you've got the car on ramps wait a minute until you've got some fluid back in.

Also I said that right this method only drains about half of the fluid total out of the transmission. The rest stays in the torque converter but doing this same method two or three times over the period of a few days (or a few hours if you're in a driving mood) should get most of the old fluid out.

Open the hood now and look at the washer fluid reservoir. (its easy to spot)

A little bit above it is the fuel filter and a little inwards and way down underneath some lines is the Transmission Dipstick. Its very hard to find if you don't know what you're looking for, so here is a picture. Its the out of focus yellow circle in the background. See what I mean when I said hard to spot?

 

This is actually the hardest part. If you dont have a specialty funnel now would be a good time to get creative with paper. (Origami classes might work) I used the funnel in the picture.

 

The hard part like I said is filling it.

Put the funnel in the dip stick and pour in 4 quarts of transmission fluid. (It took 4 and 1/4th for me to get it just right) You should be good to go now although in a few hours it would be a good idea to recheck the fluid level (Cold or warm either way its hard to get a good reading on it because of the dipstick but since you just poured the fluid DOWN the dipstick to fill the transmission its almost impossible to get a good reading immediately.)

I've also decided at least for me its better to get a cold reading because I have an over sized transmission cooler installed which should effect temps and also should effect the warm dip stick reading.

I used Mobil 1 ATF and I'll report back on how it does with the Subaru 4EAT.

 

Also here is a picture of it all finished up complete with me spilling/splashing transmission fluid everywhere. To prevent yourself looking like this tin foil will help cover parts you don't want oil on.

This is also a decent picture of the Oil Filter on the automatic transmission.

 

Also, heres a picture of it all finished up, complete with me spilling/splashing transmission fluid everywhere.

This is also a decent picture of the Oil Filter on the automatic transmission.

YES!! This is Exactly how I have changed my Automatic Transmission fluid for the past 6+ years on my 2002 Forester L. The Transmission is SMOOTH AS GLASS and drives like Brand New with 97800 miles on it. Instant Acceleration and even under hard throttle acceleration the shifts are PERFECTLY SMOOTH.

Every Oil Change of 3000 miles, I also Drain as much Automatic Transmission Fluid as I can out and replace the same amount with Fresh New Wal-Mart Super Tech fluid Dextron III Automatic Transmission fluid which is only $11.50 per 4 quart bottle!! Yes it's cheap, but I replace it so fast it never has time to break down and works GREAT. It's the same thing as better brands anyway. Remember, I've done this for 6+ years and the Automatic Transmission still 100% Perfect.

I've let other people drive my car and they are AMAZED how smoothly it shifts, even under HARD acceleration.

The key is to make SURE you check the LEVEL and get it JUST RIGHT for the HOT TEMP.

I drive the car for a short distance, 5-10 miles then come back, check the level, let it settle, check level again, if necessary top off or drain a fraction to get it RIGHT AT The Hot Full level.

Works like a Charm and keeps your Automatic Transmission at 100% PERFECT condition all the time.

The Dealership FLUSH is a Scam.. Will Damage the Solenoids by pushing GUNK into them under pressure... Just DRAIN and FILL every 3000 miles and your GOLDEN for LIFE.

Subaru On Brothers!!

 

Good write up Brucey. The only thing I have to add is that not all 4EAT trannys have the filter. I forget when they added it, but the older models don't have it. I think it was a late 90's addition.

 

I believe it was halfway through the 99 year when they added it.
It later got moved somewhere in the car, but not directly attached to the transmission.

All of them also have an internal screen.

 

I just want to add that from a cold reading, it took exactly 4.25 (4 and 1/4th) quarts of atf to have the dip stick perfectly between the high and the low notches. I've edited the above stuff a bit.

Also, the mobil 1 ATF definately makes shifting smooth, and only half the fluid in at this time is Mobil 1, the other half being generic junk.

 

I've used nothing but WalMart Super Tech Dextron III at $11.50 per 4 quart bottle for 6+ years using your drain and fill method every 3000 miles with the oil change schedule and my Automatic Transmission is Smooth As Glass with 97000+ miles on it!!

If you drain and fill every 3000 miles The fluid doesn't have time to "break down". It's so easy to do, just drain and fill and your GOLDEN!!

This is Truly Good Info... Everyone should Drain and Fill every 3000 miles and your Automatic Transmission will last Forever.

Thanks Bro for the Excellent Info!!

Subaru On Brothers!!

 

9.8qts

Subaru 4eat trans requires 9.8qts ATF.
That is with the torq. conv. drained....

Brucey's method is what I do...only about half , but better than none at all.

Jiffy lube or the dealer can do the full flush with a machine that cycles with a cleaner. Last I checked it was over $200...with synthetic redline ATF.

 

Forgive me if this seems like a stupid question. I have an '06 2.5i AT, and I plan on changing my AT fluids (as well as my F/R diff). Is this guide still pertinent to my model?

Much Thanks,
Randy

 

It takes three drain and fills to get all the fluid out. Drain, fill, start the car and run it through all gears, then repeat. Most the fluid is in the torque converter not the pan.
In the cars without an external filter, there is no need to replace the internal one, as it is just a screen. Most the time this gets replaced and the pan leaks.

nipper

 

In the cars without an external filter, there is no need to replace the internal one, as it is just a screen. Most the time this gets replaced and the pan leaks.

Thank you, @nipper ! This point bears repeating.

And thanks @Brucey for the original write-up!

On my 1998 Legacy GT, the previous owner changed the ATF fluid and “filter” (screen and gasket). By the time I bought the vehicle from him, a lot of the fluid had leaked back out, and transmission shifted rather poorly. Doh!

After letting the poor car sit for an eternity, I am now finally getting to address this issue. I’ll have to make sure to drop the pan and re-seal to keep the ATF inside this time.

PS: My 1998 does indeed not have an external, canister-type ATF filter. So I bought one for naught.

 

Without the fancy machine, is it possible to pull the tranny lines (wherever they may be) and put one in a pan and somehow push new fluid in?

 

If you were to put the out line from the radiator into a big empty contaier, and dip the return line into a massive 10 quart container of fresh fluid, it sounds like it would work. I'm not sure if there would be enough pressure on the return line however.

 

the fluid is lifetime, dont worry about it...makes no difference read your manuals

 

I guess I don't care what a manual says, but 'lifetime of vehicle' in a factory manual means "till warranty runs out" to me.

 

Lifetime means to me till you have to carry that load of geologists and gear over a mountain pass in middle of the summer and your tranny fluid gets baked. A little common sense is required when interpreting maintenance interval in the manual.

 

I guess I don't care what a manual says, but 'lifetime of vehicle' in a factory manual means "till warranty runs out" to me.

+1

 

i would have to agree with the majority here. it seems that these "lifetime" parts and fluid are a sales ploy to make you feel better about buying the car. spark plugs don't last 100k miles, i don't care what the box says.

my wifes 740 has "lifetime trans fluid" in it, i asked a very knowledgeable mechanic who specializes in bmws what i need to take care of as far as maintenance since the warranty was up, first thing he said was change the trans fluid around 60k. he knows i'll do it myself so he wasn't trying to make a buck. the fluid for that is bmw specific and costs around $360 just for the fluid, ouch. he basically said "cheap insurance, $500 or so now, $6000 for a new trans later.

chevy recommends a trans fluid/filter change at 60k, people who know these trans say 15-20k.

remember that manual was written on the expertise of the same guys who's solution to a blown headgasket was to add some liquid to the coolant.

 

Can somebody ID the tranny lines to the radiator?

Can somebody ID the pressure and return side of the two tranny lines going into the radiator?

Here's my plan:

1) Drain the pan (probably drain about 3qt from what I've read)
2) Refill to appropraite level
3) Remove return line going from radiator to tranny. connect hose to it and run it into a jug.
4) Start car for a short period of time and drain out 1 or 2 qts. (from what I understand, it doesn't come out really fast. Is that true?)
5) Shut car off and refill to appropriate level
6) Repeat until fluid is clear coming from return line.

Anybody have any thoughts on that?

Thanks.

 

I found a bit of info. This service manual page shows the lines coming out of the tranny. I'll just have to trace them up to the radiator.

 

The ATF line is connected to the bottom of the radiator.

 

The ATF line is connected to the bottom of the radiator.

Yes.

Do you know which one is the return to the tranny? Left or right as sitting in the drivers seat?

 

Re: Can somebody ID the tranny lines to the radiator?

Can somebody ID the pressure and return side of the two tranny lines going into the radiator?

Here's my plan:

1) Drain the pan (probably drain about 3qt from what I've read)
2) Refill to appropraite level
3) Remove return line going from radiator to tranny. connect hose to it and run it into a jug.
4) Start car for a short period of time and drain out 1 or 2 qts. (from what I understand, it doesn't come out really fast. Is that true?)
5) Shut car off and refill to appropriate level
6) Repeat until fluid is clear coming from return line.

Anybody have any thoughts on that?

Thanks.

never done it, in most auto trans the return line dumps the "cooled" fluid into the pan and a pick up tube feeds the system. not sure what the advantage of removing the drain line would be if you are basically just filling and draining.

if the fluid is not pretty clear anyway, you have some problem. the fluid usually looks pretty clear [red], it just breaks down over time and doesn't work quite as well.

a few regular drain/drive cycles will accomplish the same thing and you don't have to worry about the trans lines.

after two drains you should have around 70% new fluid.

 

which line is which shouldn't really matter. Although offhand on my 00 the closer one to the hard lines is the one going back to the tranny.

 

which line is which shouldn't really matter. Although offhand on my 00 the closer one to the hard lines is the one going back to the tranny.

I'll just trace them.

I definitely want the one coming OUT of the radiator. That way I get all of the fluid changed out in it. Not sure how much it holds, but why not.