2000 my obw in car head gasket replacement - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #1 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-21-2007, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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2000 head gasket replacement/ valve adjustment

this will not start as a complete walkthru , though it it may end up becoming that.

my outback wagon is an auto with a 2.5 sohc motor, you can't remove the heads in a dohc without pulling the cams first.

first off, get a manual, haynes, subaru, download one, just get one.

you'll need some tools, and a pair of hands to get them in and out.

tools; basic set of metric sockets and wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.
special; torque wrench [pref clicker] , 14mm 12 point socket to fit torque wrench and breaker bar , 22 mm socket for crankshaft pulley, 2 ft breaker bar [to break heads loose], compression tester to find tdc on #1 cyl. , chain wrench [to hold pulleys while you loosen [use old belt on pulley to prevent damage.

felpro makes a complete gasket set with headgaskets, valve cover and bolt gaskets and a few others, i got them seperately because noone at autozone could tell me what was in the kit. you'll need intake and exhaust gaskets too, maybe you'll have ebtter luck with the kit info.


ok, so you've got your manual, read it.

the haynes manual basically tells you to tear the whole thing apart, there are a couple shortcuts; first, you don't have to disassemble the heads, second you don't have to totally disassemble the intake. third you don't have to remove the whole exhaust.

heres what i did;

drain coolant

remove;

air intake and airbox

battery, washer res, coolant bottle, fans, upper radiator hose.

remove plugs, get motor to tdc [use manual]

[tape cardboard over radiator to prevent damage ,trust me and murphy ;]]

good time to check valve clearance, this will help you determine if you need to have the heads torn down and valve work done. if they are way out i would suggest this.

remove;

acc belts and tensioners, timing belt cover, timing belt , pulley and tensioner [use manual] , rear timing cover, camshaft pulley, c. p . s. ,

disconnect exhaust manifold and pull down [don't have to take it all the way off.

intake;

unplug all elec plugs and vacuum hoses and mark as necessary [most can only go one place. the only fuel lines you have to disconnect are on the driver side by the fuel filter, three hoses above the inj's. there are two coolant lines on the throttle body, remove them. disconnect throttle lines and bracket.

unplug spark plug wires at the igniter, feed wires thru and remove.

leave the ingniter and the throttle body on the intake.

remove the inj covers, unplug inj wires, feed wires out of intake [driver side has c.p.s plug too].

unbolt intake, there are two zipties holding a wire harness to the intake, undo those [it was easier for me to lift the intake partially out to access these] , if theres anyohter hoses still holding the intake, disconnect. the intake will lift out, you have to manuever it but it will ocme out.

unbolt ac cpmpressor and power steering pump [you don't have to disconnect any lines. i moved the ps to the side and the ac comp towards the center [lines get in the way when trying to remove the heads if you don't]

break head bolts loose with breaker bar and 14mm 12 point socket, use loosening sequence in your manual. they are a bear to loosen but keep at it. i left the top center bolt snug to hold the head in place intil i was ready to lift it out.

get a pair of hands, they don't have to be a mechanic, but they don have to be able to help unbolt the head and manuever bolts. one person needs to hold the head and the other needs to unbolt it, i used an air ratchet for the last bolt to speed it up [head gets heavy in theat position]. the bolts will stay in the head and need to be pulled out far enough to clear the block but not so far they get in the way. i won't lie, this kinda sucks, you have to tilt the head and keep the bolts from sliding back down and getting caught in the cylinder and hanging you up. but, it can be done, just be careful not to mar the head or block surface.

ok, the heads are out. it's up to you whether you disassemble them or not. if you caught the leak early and didn't overheat too much the head probably isn't warped, again it's up to you. smart money says let someone qualified check the head for warp and cracks.

clean head and block surfaces, i used carb cleaner and a razor blade [don't cut int o the surface], clean the carbon ring out of the cyl and clean up the combustion chamber. use cleaner and spray as much oil out of the head as possible, let it drain out the best you can, you don't want oil contaminating the gasket when you try to put it back in. clean headbolts.

reinstall;

i put the gasket on the head with the bolts halfway in, use clean engine oil to lube the headbolt washers and threads [don't need alot, but it needs some].

have your helper manuever bolts and feed them in the holes, slide gasket over the pins sticking out of the block, push head tight to block [of course you did all this without damaging gasket, if not, get new one, try again] i found a finger ratchet helps here to get the threads started then i used an air ratchet to get the bolts in enough to let go of the head [don't air ratchet it tight, just helps get them in fast so you aren't holding the head for the million turns it takes to get them in].

lightly snug bolts.

use the tightening sequence in your manual.

if you don't have an inch pound torque wrench, divide by 12 to get ft lbs, intial should be a little over 11 ft lbs on 3-4-5-6.

i painted 4 lines on the 14mm socket 90 degees to one another, 1 white, 1 black [opposite each other] and 2 red. i always started with white and a reference point so i knew when black hit the reference point i had gone 180 degrees, white to red gave me 90 degrees. have your sequence in front of you and stick to it, if your helper is there they can help keep track. it's not hard but if you get distracted you might lose your place.

then reassemble all the stuff you took off and your done ;]

it's late, i'm doing this from memory, if something looks off or out of sequence let me know. if you have any detail questions, ask. i figure between the manual and this you should be able to figure this out.


hope this helps someone, it can be done, it's not rocket science but does require some mechanical skill, patience and organization. i'll post a few pictures soon so you can see what it looks like at various stages of teardown.
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post #2 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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ist shot, pass side. green injector protector needs to be removed, other side is similar but two piece.
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post #3 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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shows fuel lines that need to be removed, the three that attach to the intake [ i was replacing the fuel filter, you don't have to take the lines off it].

also shows throttle cable and bracket that needs to come off.

oil filler neck needs to be removed, unbolt dipstick and rotate out of the way, you don't have to take it out.





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post #4 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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unbolt exhaust from head and pull down, don't need to remove.

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post #5 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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injector protectors off, inj plugs unplugged, wires out of the way. leave inj's and fuel rails on intake manifold.

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post #6 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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intake out with injs, fuel rails, throttle body, igniter still attached. good time to clean it out, mine wasn't too dirty considering it has 110k on it [so much for the need for a catch can]. now you can really clean out that throttle body, i just sprayed a can of cheap carb leaner thru it, looke brand new, well clean anyway ;]

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post #7 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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intake off, now unbolt the power steering pump and move it to the pass side.

unbolt a.c compressor , leave alternator. the way the a.c lines are it was easier to move the compressor on top of the alternator and bungee it so it didn't move, the lines are out of the way of the head that way.

now you're ready to break the the head loose.

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post #8 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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here you can see the head bolt heads [ 6 bolts, 14mm, 12 point]. bottom three are not visible but are directly below the top bolts under the rocker assembly. make sure your breaker bar clears the rocker arms, don't want to bend those ;]

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post #9 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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see how long those bolts are ? that's why it's a pain to do this in car, but, it can be done, just takes a bit of finesse.

nice sludge huh ? dirt buildup mixed with coolant that came out of the top red hose when i took it off. all nice and clean now.
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post #10 of 77 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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cylinders and pistons cleaned them up as well as the carbon ring around the inside edge. be careful cleaniing the gasket material off the flat surface, don't dig in with whatever you are using to scrape it. make sure the scraper is flat, i used a new utility knife blade and carb cleaner and a rag. clean up any oil and coolant that are in there, you need the surface clean and dry when you put the new gasket in.
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